Right Hand (clutch) cover stuck! Help Please.

There are kits that replace all 6 screw with Allen bolts and spacers. You can make a kit by drilling a hole through the screws you have. Just large enough to pass the correct size Allen head bolt through the screws. I think you need a 5 mm by 30 or 35 mm long bolt. Before you assemble the clutch back on the engine test fit it together. If the new bolts are too long they can stick out the back and cut a groove in the basket. If the bolts you have stick out, just grind them flush with the hub.
Leo
 
I'm Not sure on the torque, I think it's 5-7 ft./lbs. The hand impact has a 1/2 drive bit holder. Put this on your torque wrench to hold a bit then torque.
Leo
 
The Phillips bits for your impact, maybe the Ryobi too, have 5/16" or 1/4" hex shanks. Fit a 5/16" or 1/4" socket on your torque wrench and stick the bit in it.

Mike's sells an Allen bolt and spacer kit for about $30 but you can make your own out of the old screws for about $5 .....

AllCompared.jpg
 
you guys are the best I am learning a ton. If you have ever seen my previous posts (and probably fairly obvisous in this post) this i my first "vintage" bike so some of this tips and tricks are brand new for me, but I love learning this stuff.

Off to get a screw extractor for that one stuck bolt. Probably get a Vessel hand impact from Ebay. I think I found an issue with the washer on my kickstart but Ill save that for another thread. =)
 
Yes, get a Vessel 2500, they are the Cadillacs of hand impacts, in fact I think they invented them. While looking through the eBay listings, you may come across some brand new ones. Yes, Vessel still makes this same old 2500 but it costs near $80 now, lol. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a nice used one. These things are tanks. In fact, I'm still using the one I bought at the local hardware store back in the early '70s, paid something like $8 for it I think.
 
Impact driver bits are usually a bit beefier than 1/4" hex, normally they are 5/16" hex. Yes, the Vessel will have the adapter if you buy a complete or near complete one. Bits may or may not come with it, many times some are broken, but bits aren't a big deal. New ones are readily available, in fact I think even Mike's sells them. Make sure what you're looking at or buy is a real Vessel. There are many copies and knock-offs. The real deal will have the "Vessel" name stamped on it .....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Xvessel+im&_nkw=vessel+impact+driver&_sacat=0

With a good hand impact and using a normal flat blade bit in that cut slot, that screw should come out. In other words, you don't need a screw extractor kit.
 
Okay some updates.

5T - you were spot on, took the good impact driver too it and one blow the notched stripped screw backed out. Additionally I did have the original small clip that sits in the factory location. I ordered the gear and clip from mikes, but my gear was in perfect shape. Waiting for my fish scale from amazon to measure the mikes clip tension.

I have been spending the past two days trying to remove the old gaskets from both my sump plate, and the clutch cover. I used the permatex gasket remover (pretty mild stuff) and plastic razor blade. I am having the hardest time getting the last bit of residue.

I know we want these gaskets clean but do you think this is good enough, not sure what else I can do to get them cleaner?

Also what is your reccomendation on the sump filter gasket as its stuck to the sump, and no the sump plate itselt. Here are some pics of the clutch cover, and the engine side.
 

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Here are pics of the gasket stuck to the bottom of the sump....not sure what to do.
 

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Yeah the gasket stuck to the sump sucks. I grind a broken hacksaw blade to make a scraper, wrap it in tape and have at for an hour or so. Up on the lift helps my old back. Bike laid over on some carpet scraps, have a 5 gallon bucket to rest the handle bar end on also works to get at it better.
 
how does the right hand side cover look, do you think they are clean enough to put back together? I was going to put some anti seize on both sides to prevent this ordeal from happening in the future.
 
From what I see I think you are good to reassemble.
I like 5twins method of oiling or lightly greasing the both sides of the gasket.
 
Just a note: If you have an air compressor, it is WELL worth the money to buy an inexpensive (Harbor Freight) right angle die grinder and a box of 3M Scotch brand roloc disks. You'll need a Roloc arbor as well.

There is no finer way to remove gasket residue.
 
If you're going to use the Roloc discs for gasket removal, I wouldn't use any but fine (blue) and/or very fine (gray). The medium and coarse discs will remove aluminum in a heart beat almost. Heck, the coarse smooth out scratches in steel, lol. I have and use the Roloc discs for cleaning, scratch removal, and polishing on alloy parts, but I don't remove gaskets with them. For that, I use plain old paint stripper. I never tried that actual gasket remover but I'll bet it's nothing more than watered down paint stripper.
 
5T - afew questions. How are you applying the paint stripper? For instance to the engine housing side, and my sump? What kind of paint stripper?

Downeaster - For me to research more, where do you buy the gray or blue rolocs. Amazon has them for like 80 bucks...seems way to steep. I would favor the side of least abrasive. Its like when I use my rotary polisher on my car, you always start with the least abrasive as you are actually sanding away clearcoat....
 
They are a tad pricey, but well worth it IMHO. You do need to use a light touch, but I've removed a crapload of gasket residue with them over the years.

Amazon has a box of 25 Super Fine for about $30: Roloc Gray
 
I apply the paint stripper with a small 1" brush, just dab it on basically. Let it soak for 5 minutes or so and gently scrape off the parts of the gasket that have softened, then repeat. It will take several applications usually to totally remove a really stuck, baked on old gasket. Any brand will do. The "famous" one is Zip Strip but like I said, any will do. Walmart carries a couple different ones I think. Wear rubber gloves, this stuff is strong and will burn your skin.
 
okay to see this starter gear fix all the way through i was looking at the kick starter when I got the case off I dont see this extra washer in the manual. Does it look familiar to anybody else here? Oh and here is the new gear with new clip back on the bike.

Becareful the mikes xs clip was only at 2.2lbs of force. I had to really get on it in the vise to get the clip to be abover 6lb of tension. I bought a $10 digital pull scale on amazon, worked good.

Is this washer supposed to be here?
 

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I would say yes to the washer. It shims the extra in-out play out of the kicker shaft. I didn't have one on mine but added one because I felt I had too much play in the shaft. With everything assembled and the right side cover back on, work the kicker shaft in and out. There shouldn't be much movement. Without that washer there would be quite a bit.
 
okay to keep some continuity to this thread. I went to put back my clutch and had some questions. I ended up creating a seperate thread to debug the clutch which can be found here.

Clutch reassembly question on 1975
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38590&referrerid=16889

5T - i gotta you are the man when it comes to these bikes so far your advice has been 100% spot on. Feel free to review my clutch thread....Im hoping i got it right (the sequence) just need a second set of trusted eyes.
 
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