Roud Revival!

Oh, almost forgot, grabbed up a set of 82 xj1100 rotors. was told they would swap out so I could have slotted rotors on the front, but they look like they are a larger diameter. Makes me feel scetchy on if they will fit properly, but i'm going to give it a shot and report back.
 
Not sure how your passenger pegs will be mounted, just thinking that there may be an interference during kickstart. Take a look at this video, visualize where your right passenger peg will be mounted, and look at the swing zone of the right leg during kickstart.

 
Your absolutely right, that is why they will not be permanently mounted.

it might be a pain in the ass, but the way I was figuring is...
1: I kick the bike to start it
2: she screws in the pegs
3: ride till park
4: pegs are removed

I've learned from experience even fold away pegs on a bad kick can and will bite you. Both myself and my father have had the inside of our right thigh bleeding from my ironhead for example.
 
Yeah, had the same problem on my other bikes. Had to put the passenger pegs where it wasn't comfortable for the passenger. Never really solved it.

Your 'temporary peg' solution has me wonderin' if maybe a 'quick release ball lock pin' version of a footpeg has ever been done.

Quick_Release_Pins_Round_Head.jpg
 
I don't believe so. A integral spring loaded setup would be neat too(like the pop up gas tank caps), but I don't have access to a lathe and have never used one. Always had to find work arounds and that seems like it would be the best way to accomplish something like that.
 
Okay, started messing with the xj1100 discs. They're bigger than the stock dual disc rotors. How much bigger? Big enough I worried they wouldn't fit.
10688388_10204534403775936_5448677231379359219_o.jpg

that's a sizable difference, but I know I've seen these on other peoples bikes, so a test fit seemed necessary.
1014928_10204534402855913_2174307477033292738_o.jpg

I put it on the wrong side on accident, but for trial purposes it is good. picked the front end up and the wheel spins seemingly drag free.

But man that's a tight fit.
10626355_10204534403375926_4760327842406410550_o.jpg

on the far side if the rotor I was running the near side is the new disc. you can see the difference it makes in clearance.

While I was digging into the front end I cleaned up the right hand wheel spacer on the buffing wheel, removed the speedometer actuator fro the left hand side, replaced the dust boot, and went to install the hughes handbuilt speedometer delete. Like so any other custom parts it needed a little work to fit, in this case the ID wasn't uniform all the way through and it didn't want to go on the axle. some light work with some emery cloth and while I was at it the buffing wheel and it fits great. sorry no pics of this yet, but it does make the front end look better.

I'll snap some pics of it when I go to fix the rotors.
 
Last edited:
Worked out the front rear fender mount tonight.
10648981_10204566554339680_3844741346898492657_o.jpg

10658766_10204566554299679_3285226794983432177_o.jpg

Capacitor also mounted, rear 32 tooth sprocket installed with new hardware, and rotors installed in proper orientation. Pic of installed speedometer delete.
10710297_10204566555499709_5963862954848882865_o.jpg

pic of overall progress...
10714568_10204566552059623_7152235452905450386_o.jpg
 
I like the way this is going, but being a weenie I would have maybe an inch of spring loaded travel under that seat! You do nice work.
 
Compared the the original seat I ran I figure this will be a dream. There is actually more foam at mostly a softer density than the original. For perspective those 1" seats might have 3" springs under them, but its often needed to make the seat sit right. The spring rate depending on your weight might not be what your looking for either, leaving you with potentially the 1" foan on the seat. The one I've made here is about 1.5-2.5" of foam. Its more plush than I'm used to so I'll take it.

I figured the rear fender mounts would be quick and easy due to using the original brace. I was wrong. It took much longer to get everything exactly how I wanted it with the primitive tooling I have on hand. Patience is a virtue, and the mounting location off the rear is mostly weld that has been shaped with hand files...
10750002_10204572845496955_8406580835137338349_o.jpg

10733871_10204572849497055_2326839517786969462_o.jpg

Grade 8 bolt coming in through the back with a stainless steel acorn as a jamb nut.

The fender brace might have to be modified more yet as i feel it holds the fender too high. I'm happy to say my plan for having the fender adjustable to match wheel location seems to have worked though.
10733939_10204572845856964_5808084536549048773_o.jpg

1836684_10204572845056944_5235786673345239374_o.jpg
 
while I'm here, I got my mid controls in.
1380330_10204576342464377_8126678582634169240_n.jpg

and promptly installed them.
10557434_10204578231551603_6174304567275502665_n.jpg

from tabletop to lowest part of seat is 23 3/4" and the controlls sit at 9 1/2" above the working height.
 

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