Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Penetration. Migs weakest link is often penetration, and running thinner wire with the flux core allows the smallest electrode possible for the given power source which is limited in my small Mig welding setup.
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Penetration. Migs weakest link is often penetration, and running thinner wire with the flux core allows the smallest electrode possible for the given power source which is limited in my small Mig welding setup.
Metal Wizard Machine
XS650 Addict
There's VERY few places that a 140a 1ph machine will be stretched on a frame. There is no reason to doubt penetration with your welder. Damn near 1/4" should be easily achievable with it running er70 and gas. There's always preheat too...
Then again, I TIG everything and sold my feeder because I never used it.
Then again, I TIG everything and sold my feeder because I never used it.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
I've welded thicker metal with it, but nothing I was going to be sitting on going down the road. for example a smoker I was building...
and while I have Mig certs its just not a favorite process. The way I have the hobart tuned I can watch the heat "eat" and the puddle build. Its somewhat similar to running 6010.
I'm certainly envious of anyone who has a 240 DC welder, though a modern miller maxstar 150 should be suitable for most garage projects. I wanted to buy one of the little Maxstars after the last outage I worked this year, but it was basically that or bike parts in the budget after I replaced the chimney on the house. you can see what I chose.
Just hoping I get it done in time to ride. My time at home is limited and I know it, so I'm trying to get done as much as possible.
and while I have Mig certs its just not a favorite process. The way I have the hobart tuned I can watch the heat "eat" and the puddle build. Its somewhat similar to running 6010.
I'm certainly envious of anyone who has a 240 DC welder, though a modern miller maxstar 150 should be suitable for most garage projects. I wanted to buy one of the little Maxstars after the last outage I worked this year, but it was basically that or bike parts in the budget after I replaced the chimney on the house. you can see what I chose.
Just hoping I get it done in time to ride. My time at home is limited and I know it, so I'm trying to get done as much as possible.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Been busy. After replacing the rear wheel bearings I cut the kickstand mount off, and welded on a XS1 style kickstand mount. Then I started something I wanted to do, but have been putting off. Cut and spread a piece of the old frame backbone to make a rear frisco style mount for the tank, with that welded on attention was diverted to the tunnel. I cut the front off, ground down the stock reinforcements and sliced along the bottom of the tunnel using zip and grinding wheels. then dropped the tunnel to where I wanted the tank to sit and started welding it up. Its a lot of work for a little gas, but it'll be a custom fit fully utilizing the available space.
Still a lot of work to go, and not sure if I'm going to move the petcock location to increase usable capacity more. Probably not going to post up more pics of the tank until finished unless someone is interested, and speaks up.
Still a lot of work to go, and not sure if I'm going to move the petcock location to increase usable capacity more. Probably not going to post up more pics of the tank until finished unless someone is interested, and speaks up.
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Metal Wizard Machine
XS650 Addict
Put the petcock on the rear where the tank and base meet up at a slightly downward angle. With it frisco'd like that you're going to have a good amount of gas in that tank that you won't have access to if you leave it forward.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Whats the best method to do that? the stock tank isn't flat bottomed(I'm assuming to add strength) and the only flat spot seems to be in the rear to the left(where as the stock petcock location is to the right). I have other stock sporty tanks to cut up if need be, and enough flat stock to replace a section if need be, but any advice on method is welcome.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Fit a short piece of pipe to the bottom with the appropriate threads and weld plate across the stock petcock location? holesaw for the new hole?
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Nope... that didn't work... give me a sec...
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Just a quick update. Tunnel is dropped, original bung plugged, new one welded in, paint stripped off the top.
there was some bondo and more dents than realized originally. Shit happens, they're lower than the filler cap, and I'm not worried about it. Just more work down the road.
Gotta weld in the re-enforcement plates yet and clean the welds/BBs, then I can work on the body filler.
beginning to wonder if I'll be able to meet my original goals. Looking bad time wise, and I'm back to work so i have less time home to work on things.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
I wholeheartedly apologize for not keeping this thing more up to date in case anyone was interested. In my defense I can say the winter was bitter cold, and I spent about 4 months away from home for work so not nearly as much has gotten done as I would have liked.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
I'm rather pleased with how the tank came out. Its fully welded with the drop tunnel, petcock has been relocated so that it sits behind the upper engine mount, and its been kreem'd.
This is how the tank looked before I sent it out to wait in line for paint with the fender.
This is how the tank looked before I sent it out to wait in line for paint with the fender.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
This is closer to what its looking like currently. this tank is simply a spare on there for mock up. the spacers for the rear axle have been sorted out, and the engine mounting bolts have largely been replaced with stainless steel.
Since then I have only managed to screw up mounting the chain tensioner. I need to cut it back off and we weld it. Somehow it wound up kicked a 1/8".
Since then I have only managed to screw up mounting the chain tensioner. I need to cut it back off and we weld it. Somehow it wound up kicked a 1/8".
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Oh, I also learned that NPR doesn't hold up well to exposure to water, so I'll have to re-visit the foam chosen for the seat before getting it covered.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
started figuring out the linkage when I should have been mounting the chain tensioner and got a crazy idea.
Any reason I shouldn't use the fender strut as the brake drum stay? I can get full measurements on the fender strut if anyone is curious but I'm currently wanting to look into making a bracket or adaptor to cross over to the fender mount to use it as the brake stay also. there isn't a lot of weight on the back of the bike so I can't see where at full lock it would see that much pressure where it would want to buckle the fender or fender strut.
Thoughts?
Any reason I shouldn't use the fender strut as the brake drum stay? I can get full measurements on the fender strut if anyone is curious but I'm currently wanting to look into making a bracket or adaptor to cross over to the fender mount to use it as the brake stay also. there isn't a lot of weight on the back of the bike so I can't see where at full lock it would see that much pressure where it would want to buckle the fender or fender strut.
Thoughts?
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
TwoManyXS1Bs: that was a great post. I double checked and this drum has the more rectangular cam profile. Am I to understand that this one is preferred for this sort of modification?
Heres what I have so far...
This was early in making the bracket off the fender strut. in later pics you'll see that the shoulder of the brake anchor bolt is no longer exposed.
Another thicker fender was cannibalized for additional support, and plate was welded in in some areas to make it a physical impossibility to rotate the fender forward without fully buckling the fender.
Here you can see the final connection is beefed up to have full contact with the brake anchor bolt shoulder. Also shown is the stainless linkage that I just got done making.
Here is the current stainless linkage again.
the chain tensioner welded in, and the shifter linkage. A aftermarket shifter lever was used to avoid cannibalizing original.
I don't have pics of these, but mounts were made for the regulator/rectifier, and ignition coil under the seat pan.
Heres what I have so far...
This was early in making the bracket off the fender strut. in later pics you'll see that the shoulder of the brake anchor bolt is no longer exposed.
Another thicker fender was cannibalized for additional support, and plate was welded in in some areas to make it a physical impossibility to rotate the fender forward without fully buckling the fender.
Here you can see the final connection is beefed up to have full contact with the brake anchor bolt shoulder. Also shown is the stainless linkage that I just got done making.
Here is the current stainless linkage again.
the chain tensioner welded in, and the shifter linkage. A aftermarket shifter lever was used to avoid cannibalizing original.
I don't have pics of these, but mounts were made for the regulator/rectifier, and ignition coil under the seat pan.
Okay, I think I see what you've done there for the brake stay. Rather than having the braking forces resolved thru tension or compression, they're resolved thru torsion. There'll be some flex going on in there. Long term may produce fatigue cracks, so keep an eye on it.
Imagine holding the fender stay horizontal, and hang 1000 lbs from the brake stay bracket, simulating max brake load. Can you see the twisting moment?
That's for 100% load test. Safe engineering tests for 200%.
The actuation rod has an "S" curve, it'll act like a spring, and give the brakes a mushy feel.
--- posted from stoopidphone...
Imagine holding the fender stay horizontal, and hang 1000 lbs from the brake stay bracket, simulating max brake load. Can you see the twisting moment?
That's for 100% load test. Safe engineering tests for 200%.
The actuation rod has an "S" curve, it'll act like a spring, and give the brakes a mushy feel.
--- posted from stoopidphone...
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
yes, I understand what your saying about torsion. The fender strut when braking forces are set upon it should act as a second class lever transferring the force to the fender and then back to the frame. The good news is this gives a mechanical advantage over a straight compression setup, the bad news is that might still not matter down the road with the fender cracking like you were saying. Flex and vibration can destroy what was thought to be very stout.
And the S bend in the linkage was a issue. It allowed the linkage to flex and tap off the frame with the first rendition made with the stock linkage that came with the jumpstreet mids. The current setup is much more rigid and most of the flex happens at the brake hub end which is significantly smaller than the 5/16" stainless rod that I'm using now. I don't expect great brake feel from it still, but its a improvement over the earlier design. Using some lock nuts I might be able to get it even more rigid.
And the S bend in the linkage was a issue. It allowed the linkage to flex and tap off the frame with the first rendition made with the stock linkage that came with the jumpstreet mids. The current setup is much more rigid and most of the flex happens at the brake hub end which is significantly smaller than the 5/16" stainless rod that I'm using now. I don't expect great brake feel from it still, but its a improvement over the earlier design. Using some lock nuts I might be able to get it even more rigid.
Nailbomb
Central New York XS650
Got the exhaust tacked up. 1 3/4" Hoos racing TT pipes, modified to fit the lines of the bike better. 15" of it are sleeved with 1 5/8" pipe that was sanded down to fit, and Khrome Werks HP+ baffles will be used.
Ranger
XS650 Addict
I use closed-cell neoprene for all the seats I build. Doesn't absorb water and holds up really well... that said, it doesn't have as much cush as some other types of foam. Here's a link to where i get mine:
http://www.foamforyou.com/neoprene.htm#Neoprene%20High%20Quality
You can even get it with adhesive on one side.
I like the unique shape of your seat, BTW.
