Seal retainer clip

[jussumguy]

Hi all, I'm getting ready to replace fork seals in a '71. I slid the dust seal up and it appears there is no means to hold the seal down. Is the clip missing or is it from a pre clip era? The old seal is there but has slid up out of the holder. Is 30 at oil still the suggested weight for it also?
Thanks for any insight, Rich

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, Rich. Yep, no seal clip, seal part #10 is just pressed in the fork nut part# 9.



Here's Angus67's thread where we discuss fork oil:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43795

 

[jussumguy]

Hmmm interesting. Thanks for the help!

 

[angus67]

Go with what 2m says. He is a reliable resource. Many years unders these bikes
I, myself am about to rebiuld my 71 forks, waiting on next payday to order fork scrapers. I have everything else, plus taperd bearing kit for the neck. I have 15wt fork oil in my 35mm forks in my chop, and like it, no dive. So i plan on 15wt for my 71's. The original spec was for striaght 30wt oil, not fork oil, straight 30 is also used for chain saw bars. Time to upgrade. Lol

 

[jussumguy]

Wow Frank was here, these things haven't been serviced for at least 25 years!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Well, that's interesting. Looks to be in good shape. We had a thread going awhile back about the lower bush on Frank's XS1 forks. How are your lower bushings retained?

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43168

 

[jussumguy]

Looks like a shallow blank pin but it doesn't go through
I thought plug weld but it looks peened in. Weird

There's holes in the fork but they don't corespond to the pin looking attachments

 

[fredintoon]

- - - The original spec was for straight 30wt oil, not fork oil, straight 30 is also used for chain saw bars. - - -

Hi angus,
although straight 30 engine oil kinda works for chainsaw bars,(and so does used cooking oil, if you strain it) I don't think chainsaw bar oil will work too well in an XS650's front forks.
I use bar oil in my bike's ScottOiler in place of the genuine stuff because it's mebbe 1/4 the price and the bar oil's high cling additives seem to be just what's needed on a drive chain.
It's even got the same red coloring.
But those very additives, plus the "NOT an engine oil" notice on the label and that although the container don't mention the oil's weight it seems way heavier than #30 would suggest that I shouldn't put it in my forks.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Nice pics, Rich. Crisp, clear, detailed. Saved for my collection.
It appears that your lower bushings are retained like OEM. Then, at some later time, Franks went to circlip (?), according to that other thread...

 

[angus67]

yes. that's why I suggest true fork oil. all the bar oil containers ive baught have had a 30wt stamp somewhere on it from original manu. use real fork oil, and it will last mucj longer.
I need to get to my 71 forks to confirm the peened pin . Ive got some vacation time coming.

 

[jussumguy]

Mine have a circlip but it is to keep the fork leg from pulling out of the lower section. These forks are held in by the seal holder and there is no Allen bolt in the bottom like standard forks. Made me think as I took them apart. Old school!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

We had a question awhile back about fork/bushing clearances, so thought I'd post this here: