That’s good info. Looks like it’s on the slow-boat from China lol
It does at the surface, but it started in Bar Harbor, Maine, so I expect it will arrive earlier than their projections.That’s good info. Looks like it’s on the slow-boat from China lol
But! Knowing how to adjust a mechanical regulator is pretty cool. It’s a dying art. Sometimes that thing can be fixed on the side of the road.Yes, the VR115 gives a nice constant and consistant output, and the one on my '78 actually reduces the charge rate down to around 14 or the high 13's after I've ridden a few miles and replenished the battery's charge. Once I put a voltmeter on the bike, I noticed how inconsistant the output was on that old original mechanical regulator. Cruising along in the 3500 to 4K range, when the charging rate should have been maxed out, I'd often see it drop off. All I can figure is the vibrations were messing with the points in that old mechanical regulator. I also figured that this unnecessary ramping up and down of the charging rate was working the rotor and alternator harder than need be, and those are big ticket items. No need for that and the "fix" is pretty easy and not too expensive.
I don't disagree, but once I knew how, and started to watch the voltage, I was surprised at the range of the output voltage. I was hoping to set it and see a solid cruising speed voltage, but after setting it and getting 14.6 at 60 mph the day I did it, the next time I rode it, it was 14.8-15, then the next time it was 15.2-15.5. I readjusted it, I thought maybe the jam nut was loose on the adjuster screw, it wasn't. Based on that experience I felt much better with an electronic version that didn't require adjustment than I did worrying about monitoring the voltage.But! Knowing how to adjust a mechanical regulator is pretty cool. It’s a dying art. Sometimes that thing can be fixed on the side of the road.
That's exactly what I saw as well. I suspect the same thing, especially at that 3,500-4,000 RPMs, I would imagine those breaker points are vibrating. Not that I really think I need to, but I could carry an extra VR115, it now just unplugs with the 4 spades.Yes, the VR115 gives a nice constant and consistant output, and the one on my '78 actually reduces the charge rate down to around 14 or the high 13's after I've ridden a few miles and replenished the battery's charge. Once I put a voltmeter on the bike, I noticed how inconsistant the output was on that old original mechanical regulator. Cruising along in the 3500 to 4K range, when the charging rate should have been maxed out, I'd often see it drop off. All I can figure is the vibrations were messing with the points in that old mechanical regulator. I also figured that this unnecessary ramping up and down of the charging rate was working the rotor and alternator harder than need be, and those are big ticket items. No need for that and the "fix" is pretty easy and not too expensive.
Clearly, the electronic VR is better. I still find to mechanical VR “charming” and a good teaching tool.I don't disagree, but once I knew how, and started to watch the voltage, I was surprised at the range of the output voltage. I was hoping to set it and see a solid cruising speed voltage, but after setting it and getting 14.6 at 60 mph the day I did it, the next time I rode it, it was 14.8-15, then the next time it was 15.2-15.5. I readjusted it, I thought maybe the jam nut was loose on the adjuster screw, it wasn't. Based on that experience I felt much better with an electronic version that didn't require adjustment than I did worrying about monitoring the voltage.
That's how the ones all were on my 77 and laterYamaha[s and on my old 83 honda Interstate.Won't be able to. 10 sec's and it shuts off. Only solution for sitting at a light would be resetting it every time it shuts off.
In heavier traffic I will often use a hand signal with signal lights to indicate a left hand turn.I use hand signs a lot .. Even if the other out on the road don't know what is going on . Most react and notice that something is happening
are more careful increasing distance or even sometimes flash the light as answer.
I use non traditional hand signs also
fex when someone is to close behind me And I get tired of it At the appropriate place on the road where an overtaking can be done with the left hand up I draw circles Pointing upwards . Look over the right shoulder move to the right on the road and decrease speed
Mostly they get it the reason for being close is that they are in a hurry or a bad driver.
If they dont pass I just decrease speed sometimes bordering to standstill If they dont overtake then I drive off and they get the message anyhow. Newer happened that the distance after not being larger.
I had A friend that that signaled that the was stopping left arm out perpendicular and underarm upwards.
That was good knowing that he wanted to talk about something fex Which way to go.
The non cancelling is dangerous so I mostly don't use them in town . Someone can drive out in front of you believing you are turning
I like this device. Easy to install! Wonder how long it would take to drain the battery if you left it plugged in when stored?I have volt meters on almost all of my vehicles. I have this one on my bikes. They are $16 and come with a charger plug for the battery. View attachment 249156
Considering how the directional lights are wired, how are you gonna hook up this timer? The flasher relay gets a constant 12 volts when ignition key is on, and that voltage is present all the way to the indicator switch. When switching to left or right, the circuit is completed through the bulbs to ground, and the flasher relay starts working.Got my timer on Friday, I don't have it installed yet but I bench tested it. Applying 12 volts to the timer turns on the 12 volt output from the timer for 1-150 secs (adjustable with a trim pot on the timer board) when the time runs out, the output turns off. Resetting the timer requires cycling the power - removing the 12 volt power from the timer and reapplying it - the timer will turn the output on again for the set time. I'll get it put in this week some time. I also upgraded my voltage regulator to a VR115, constant 14.3-14.4 volts, I also have a new 3 phase rectifier to put in as well.
Seems to me you could hook it any place prior to the switch. As long as the switch is off, it's an open circuit. Select left or right, circuit closes and the timer starts.The flasher relay gets a constant 12 volts when ignition key is on, and that voltage is present all the way to the indicator switch. When switching to left or right, the circuit is completed through the bulbs to ground, and the flasher relay starts working.
I am pretty sure that at least a conventional flasher relay is NC, until the circuit has been completed for 1 second or so, then it goes open for a second, then it closes again, and so on. If it was NO when the switch was in neutral position, how would it be "triggered" to start cycling?Seems to me you could hook it any place prior to the switch. As long as the switch is off, it's an open circuit. Select left or right, circuit closes and the timer starts.
It has a switch on it so you can switch it off if you want. I leave them on for days anyway, don’t seem to change, the rubber cover is soft enough you can turn it on or off with the cover on.I like this device. Easy to install! Wonder how long it would take to drain the battery if you left it plugged in when stored?
Good point, basically the timer needs to be in line between the power for the turn signals and the switch and isn’t going to have a separate, switched 12 volts to turn it on. It has a separate ground for the output, if the relay will power up using the switched ground, it may still work. We’ll see.I am pretty sure that at least a conventional flasher relay is NC, until the circuit has been completed for 1 second or so, then it goes open for a second, then it closes again, and so on. If it was NO when the switch was in neutral position, how would it be "triggered" to start cycling?
I like this device. Easy to install! Wonder how long it would take to drain the battery if you left it plugged in when stored?