Shock recommendations, please

OK.. Thank you for information..

The ones I'm bidding on is for a Honda CB1000.. It is hevier bike than the XS 235kg.. so maybee not so sad if they slip away..?
 
Ok.. so then I got the winning bid.. Ended up with 158 GBP to my dor.. Not so bad. ( if the Norwegian VAT of 25% are left out :) Not likely though.. )
The springs has the numbers 46-20-30-200.. 46 is the inner diameter 20 and 30 is the progressive spring rate in N/mm and 200 is the length.
The YSS shocks for the XS650 has this numbers 46-17-25-200 so the ones I have is a bit more stiff.. https://www.yss.co.th/downloads/20171205022842.pdf
But as I have 90kg springs in the fork from Race-Tech with emulators it might still be OK?
My weight is 98kg..
Any thoughts ?

Jon
 
With this thread going I hate to start a new one on the same topic....

I need to order some shocks and was wondering what a good weight rating might be. I'm pushing 275 these days. I dont plan on super spirited riding and I dont want them mushy or too stiff either. I plan on Amazon or Ebay and keeping the budget low. I found some I like but they are each rated at 800lbs.
 
Ok.. so then I got the winning bid.. Ended up with 158 GBP to my dor.. Not so bad. ( if the Norwegian VAT of 25% are left out :) Not likely though.. )
The springs has the numbers 46-20-30-200.. 46 is the inner diameter 20 and 30 is the progressive spring rate in N/mm and 200 is the length.
The YSS shocks for the XS650 has this numbers 46-17-25-200 so the ones I have is a bit more stiff.. https://www.yss.co.th/downloads/20171205022842.pdf
But as I have 90kg springs in the fork from Race-Tech with emulators it might still be OK?
My weight is 98kg..
Any thoughts ?

Jon
That depends on several things. Do you ride with a passenger? With luggage? If you are very tall, you may put more weight over the rear wheel, and so on. I would fit the shocks to the bike, and measure suspension sag with you on the bike, in normal riding position. I guess the shocks should compress about 30% of their total travel, as a starting point. I have some suspension books at home, that I could have a closer look at, when I get home from overseas next week (Wilbers and Racetech suspension "bibles", and Tony Foales "Motorcycle Chassis Design")
You may need a buddy or two to help you measure sag. One to support the bike, and one to measure the c-c of the shocks. For checking sag on the fork, you can use a cable tie around one tube. If you want to be really scientific about it, take two measurements for the shocks and two for the fork. Have the second helper compress the suspension a bit extra, then ease off slowly, and measure. Then have him lift (extend) the suspension a bit, and ease off slowly, then take a second measurement. These two measurements will differ, due to friction (hystheresis). Actual sag is the average of the two.
 
mcjongs, if you can set preload on those springs to provide at least 35 mm. of laden sag in the rear, they'll work fine. For a link to a very useful free publication, google "suspension 101 e-book." Because of the very small area of contact between seal and rod, seal drag doesn't have much effect on rear sag measurements.
 
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That depends on several things. Do you ride with a passenger? With luggage? If you are very tall, you may put more weight over the rear wheel, and so on. I would fit the shocks to the bike, and measure suspension sag with you on the bike, in normal riding position. I guess the shocks should compress about 30% of their total travel, as a starting point. I have some suspension books at home, that I could have a closer look at, when I get home from overseas next week (Wilbers and Racetech suspension "bibles", and Tony Foales "Motorcycle Chassis Design")
You may need a buddy or two to help you measure sag. One to support the bike, and one to measure the c-c of the shocks. For checking sag on the fork, you can use a cable tie around one tube. If you want to be really scientific about it, take two measurements for the shocks and two for the fork. Have the second helper compress the suspension a bit extra, then ease off slowly, and measure. Then have him lift (extend) the suspension a bit, and ease off slowly, then take a second measurement. These two measurements will differ, due to friction (hystheresis). Actual sag is the average of the two.


Thanks for info. I'm totally with you on your info above. I have in fact some knowledge about the topic.(You could of course not know that :)

I have re shimmed many WP forks for myself and others and lately modified and rebuilt my own EXC300 enduro bike with Kreft valves and shims to overcome the bad std. behavior so I’m not a novice :) I'm just curious if someone had particular XS650 experience. My earlier Aprilia RSV1000 Factory std. equipped with Öhlins front and rear was probably the best chassis I have ever experienced.. On track days It was diving a tad too much under heavy braking, leaving only 10mm left of travel so I ended up with adding one cm with fork oil and it was OK. Just to explain where I'm re. experience, not that I'm an expert.. Not at all!

Anyway I can't expect nearby same chassis behavior with my XS but I just like to have it as optimal I can without putting too much cost to it.. knowing that there is a relation between quality and cost. :) Also aware that a dirt bike needs far more sophisticated shocks than a road bike.

Now it is heavy snow so it will be a while until I can test the new set up.. Maybe in May. :)

Jon
 
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