SO PISSED - Brand new coil from mikesxs broken!!!!!!!!!

Timing the pamco could NOT be easier. You could do it while waiting at a long light if you had a phillips head screw driver and a timing light.

Seriously, you could.

I run bp6es's too.

Yeah, I know, but I dont have a timing light... last one I had is in a million peices after I pegged it at my mate. (Timing a car, he messed up badly and then gave it to me and said here look" when I did he had the coils short up to the gun and shock me - just fun and games - I pegged it at him and I missed... and it didnt survive lol was a crappy timing light though so no prob)

Gurgling from the exhaust.?? Thats and STD. You should talk to your bike. Good luck.

HAHA, nice call...

Static shock.....Id think it would have to be a ground issue. Shocking you when "you" ground the circuit....? You are completing the circuit. Try it bare footed and see if its worse than with rubber soles.....
Yeah, which spins me out as it ONLY did it after the pamco, new coil etc. I am 185% sure that my wiring is fine, but who knows... I could have done something. Its VERY soft, and its random... will see later... at a petrol station maybe hahaha

I've been known to be wrong......5twins this is where you step in and link ALL of my previous threads........... A what not to do tutorial.

Seriously though.....dont let anyone else ride your bike until you get that STD looked at.
oh of course, I will be visiting the relationship councillor with my bike asap also... our communication skills suck (wait, that is what probably caused the STD! - boom boom. :D


Cheers,
Peter
 
Hi,



I then had to start her up, first time where I had the PAMCO it wouldnt fire, so I turned the plate counter-clockwise and she fired up! I havnt had time to time her properly - did it by sight, sound, etc... but took her for a nice ride around the block.
I found that:

Can anyone explain this for me?

Also Pristic (pete) I bought a timing light off ebay for I think $30 or so and its fine. At that price it was a no brainer and it help me realise my mech advancer was cactus.
 
It means unscrewing the plate (think of the normal screws that hold the points plate) and turning it clockwise or counter-clockwise (one way advances timing the other way retards timing) - when you get it running then time using timing light.
 
So I got this coil (6803 - the wrong one you originally received). Got it installed and took utmost care dealing with the fragile terminals. Wanted to take the connectors off the coil so I could test for power to the coil (having issues) and simply trying to unplug the connector from the terminals ripped both of them off. Piece of garbage. They were held in with maybe one tiny solder and that's it. Going to be ordering one of the ultimate ones to replace it. How are the terminals on that one?
 
Shitty coils.

Someone should start a "Dont Buy This" thread for the REALLY shitty parts.

The review threads are good, but a do not buy thread might save some people time and money.

Just an idea.
 
Shitty coils.

Someone should start a "Dont Buy This" thread for the REALLY shitty parts.

The review threads are good, but a do not buy thread might save some people time and money.

Just an idea.

Works for me. Unfortunately I had already bought the coil and THEN read all the reviews on it and hearing about the terminals snapping if you looked at it wrong.
 
If the company wasn't doing anything to fix the issue then ya do a crappy product thread. Personally I am not a fan of doing that given how many people claim issues with products that are not the products fault :twocents:
 
The case with the 6803 coil from Mike's XS is definitely a bad product issue. Mike's acknowledges the weak terminals on the page for the part, but you could not have been any more careful than I was with them and they still pulled out of the coil like they weren't even attached. It's an issue that Mike's needs to take up with whoever makes the coil (probably somewhere in China) and get it changed. In this case, you get what you pay for - a cheapo coil. I learned the hard way and hopefully others will avoid doing the same thing and getting one of the better ones from the start.

Sorry to the OP for cluttering up your thread on this coil. Hope the Ultimate one works great - I have one on the way!
 
Hi,

Don't worry about the thread. I'm not like that. Talk away.
Now, timing. I got another timing light and tried to time it.

Not sure what is happening. :-(
On idle the timing is about 4mm to the RIGHT of the F| mark.
That's look at the alternator.

Turning the throttle, it moves left as it should and through to the full advance position. However it's strange that the strobe timing light STOP flashing! When revs drop down again it resumes flashing. Wtf?

In my brain that means its too far retarded correct??
The PAMCO plate is turned almost completely CLOCKWISE which is advanced right??

So, my timing is fully advanced but still retarded on idle.
Mind you I DON'T have a tachometer on this bike nor access to one right now.
Ill pop over to Geoff Bamfords ASAP to see if he has any ideas.

Am I retarded? Haha. Me make a funny. Do I have my above clockwise and counter-clockwise mixed up somewhere?

Just to recap. PAMCO plate is turned CLOCKWISE almost completely.
Timing mark when using light is too far to the RIGHT on idle.
Bike runs fine, starts first kick and idles really nicely.

Hmmmm

Posted via Mobile
 
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Many inductive devices that run on the plug wire work better with the pulse coming from one direction into the coil than the other. I have an EZ-tach clamp-on tachometer. They are directional, with an arrow on the housing showing you which way the current should flow through it, and it works best when it's as close to the plug as possible.
 
Dual output coils produce a positive voltage on one of the plug wires and a negative on the other. Most timing lights are designed to work best with the negative voltage because that is the polarity for conventional distributor type ignitions. So even if you clamp the timing light inductive gizmo correctly with the arrow pointing towards the spark plug, it still won't work properly unless that is the negative wire, hence the suggestion to either use the other plug wire from that coil or simply flip the clamp on backwards.

There is actually a method to show which of the wires is the negative wire, but it is not for the faint of heart. By placing a standard #2 lead pencil in the path of the arc from the plug wire to the spark plug, you can distinguish the negative wire with its distinctive shower of electrons going towards the plug terminal, like so:

spark_polarity.gif
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks, either plug (I tried both) basically does the same thing. I can see the light fine, just at higher RPM the light STOPS

If we ignore that for a minute, ill play with the clamp though... and work it out... however is my understanding above correct?
ie/ I have the plate rotated CLOCKWISE almost all the way, but on idle the timing is too far to the right (if looking at the alternator - my mark is too far to the RIGHT)

So I cant advance it enough on idle?
ie/ I cant get the timing to sit in the |F| range on idle.

If I rotate the plate the other way, I get to about half way on the plate then I am no longer able to start or run the bike... too far retarded on start and idle. FULLY counter-clockwise and I can start it at all, just big bang when I kick it and wont start.

So I think my timing feels right, but when I use the timing light the idle is way too retarded...

Any ideas?

Will test again when I can, and make sure I have the clip on facing the right direction to the arrow, etc.

Cheers,
Peter
 
You mean e-advancer from pamcopete??
It's simple.
What's wrong with it? I mean "what do you mean by" 'my elec advance install went wrong'

Happy to try and help.

Posted via Mobile

I didn't know what had gone wrong but figured it out over the weekend. I installed last week and couldn't get my bike to run afterwards then ran out of time. On the weekend I reinstalled the advance wiring and no love so pulled the timing adv. rod back off and discovered I'd botched the install of it. I worked around it last night by reinstalling the mech advance unit and tie-wiring the weights open and confirmed that the elec advance unit was fine.

Pamco Pete has been very patiently helping me out along the way :thumbsup:
 
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