some wiring diagrams

[avenue]

to whom this may concern, quite a few of the diagrams, specifically the easy to follow cartoonish looking ones with the recycling symbol in the bottom left corner, show the main harness pulls power before the 20amp main fuse, not after, like Leo suggests. just a heads up.

now, leo, what jets do I need.....?

as always, thanks for the help,
avenue.

 

[XSLeo]

As I have said several times the main fuse should protect everything. Some of the dia grams show the fuse between the reg/rec and the battery, this is ok, but not really needed.
The battery and reg/rec are the power sources, the fuse needs to be between the power sources and the rest of the wiring. This will protect the complete harness. The smaller fuses protect individual circuits.
On your jets, you need to let the bike tell you what it wants. On a bike with stock intake and exhaust stock or maybe one up on each may work. With good pods and a more open exhaust you will need to up the pilot one, the mains maybe two. Some need more. There are to many factors effecting the jetting to just say do this and it works.
In the carb guide it tells how to test the jetting and how to adjust the jetting by what the bike tells you.
Leo

 

[avenue]

Thanks, leo. I was kidding about the jets.

I got the wiring figured out, many thanks to you, and there's a bag full of different jets on the work bench for when I can get this thing fired over.

best,
avenue.

 

[jeffh]

Wiring things confuses me does anyone have a step by step guide on how to wire the bike i got the front head light and the tail light wired up. The tail light goes on with both front and rear switches. But when i had hooked everything up to do the engine electrical it wouldnt kick over so if some one could help me out i would greatly appriciate it
Thanks
Jeff H

 

[strang]

here's what I'm going to try this week - did i get the two brake switches right?

 

[scrapper]

I've used this setup Thank you very much for the diagram,
Bike started first kick and lights are working.
Starter Motor Lead - I ground the starter motor lead to the same place as the battery negative lead is this needed?
Grounds - I've got the headlight ground going to front of the frame. The rest I've joined together using a Posi Lock connector and then a single lead to ground. should I be doing this another way?
Lights - I set this up using two rocker switches - on a 1980 G can I use the stock control with this set up?
Horn - What would be the best way to add a horn onto this?

I don't think this option has been covered- kick only with OEM electronic ignition-

 

[strang]

yep my brake switches work. wirings kind of addictive when you start seeing things flashing.

 

[XSLeo]

I like scrappers diagram a bit more than yours strang. It has the tail light hooked in with the headlight so when you turn the lights on it turns on the taiul light with the head light. The one thing I would change would be the brake light fuse. Put it between the brake switches and key. With it after the brake switches, a short to ground at the switches or wiring before the fuse will blow the main fuse. Not the brake light fuse.
On the starter ground lead, most don't have one, the starter grounds through the mounts to the engine, from the engine to frame, frame to battery. Running a ground cable from one of the starter mount bolts up to the ground battery cable is not a bad thing. It will bypass the regular ground path, this will eliminate a few connections.
I have been thinking about trying that on my 750 kitted engine to see if it helps the starter crank the bigger engine.
Leo

 

[YL82]

I've got a new wiring harness to put on my 1976 (650C).

I have a Pamco with Ultimate High Output Coil and OEM Starter.

Which diagram(s) are going to help me out with harness installation? My eyes glazed over looking at all these diagrams.

Thanks.

 

[strang]

I like scrappers diagram a bit more than yours strang. It has the tail light hooked in with the headlight so when you turn the lights on it turns on the taiul light with the head light. Leo

I like the tail light being on all the time regardless of headlights as if I stall it at the lights during the day there is a bit more visibility. It´s only LED so not a big deal for the battery either way.

 

[YL82]

Jeffh,

Did you completely redo your wiring in the headlight bowl area? I'm installing a new wiring harness and all was well until I reached the gaggle of wires behind the headlight. In addition to the two big wire bundles, I'm also repkacing he bar switch harness on throttle side where. start button is.

What year is your bike? Perhaps you can help me with my wiring mess up front.

 

[XSLeo]

To install a new harness, as in bought a new harness like Mike's sells you just unplug the old and plug in the new.
Inside the headlight bucket is the same, unplug the old, plug in the new. Your new switches should plug into the harness as the old did.
If not you might have to put the wires from the new switch into the plug body from the old switch.
Leo

 

[scrapper]

Had a couple of issues with mine, something wasn't right and it drained the battery completely. I think it may have been something not connected right and it seems to be ok now.
I did have to switch the tail light wires around to get it to work correctly,
I'm not sure if its to do with the way the headlight is connected to the switches.
I'm still stumped on the horn at the moment, non stop 12hour days has left my mind in a bad state. I've got nothing running into or from the stock left switch now but I wanted to use the horn button on this so I can get the bike legal at the moment.
Can I just be connecting the pink wire from switch to horn and the other to the battery?

I like scrappers diagram a bit more than yours strang. It has the tail light hooked in with the headlight so when you turn the lights on it turns on the taiul light with the head light. The one thing I would change would be the brake light fuse. Put it between the brake switches and key. With it after the brake switches, a short to ground at the switches or wiring before the fuse will blow the main fuse. Not the brake light fuse.
On the starter ground lead, most don't have one, the starter grounds through the mounts to the engine, from the engine to frame, frame to battery. Running a ground cable from one of the starter mount bolts up to the ground battery cable is not a bad thing. It will bypass the regular ground path, this will eliminate a few connections.
I have been thinking about trying that on my 750 kitted engine to see if it helps the starter crank the bigger engine.
Leo

 

[ducktoo1]

You can get the different color wire at a local electrical wholesaler, the type who sell to electricians. A 14 ga. wire for most of your wiring will be more than enough. On the heavy load stuff, 10 or12 ga. should be sufficient, but your not going to use anything that will require the heavy stuff. The wire is alot cheaper there than at Auto Zone or the like's, and alot more color's. Also, they have connector's like the stock one's, Or different styles, dependin g on what you want to use.

Why not use your old harness? It has all the correct colors, and is the correct gauge. More than enough wire for a basic system.

 

[Austblue]

I spent quite a few hours putting this together yesterday so hopefully it is correct and hopefully the layout helps others. I needed to invest the time to do it this way so that I could picture it - I'm a civil engineer and struggle to appreciate schematics so seeing the routes helps me picture how it works.

Appreciate any feedback.

Unfortunately I started off with an inspirational bike pic that wasn't an XS but that won't matter.

edit: Sorry about the resolution - I have put it together in ms powerpoint and saved as a jpg - I can send the file if anyone wants it or I can try and do a better resolution screenshot at work tomorrow.

Schematic was the basis but as I layed out the above route plan I modified some things then reworked the schematic pretty quickly so may have missed some detail.

Now since this is the first full rewire Ive attempted I have set out a plan. Once I confirm confidence in the layout I'll work out what connections I need also. I'm rewiring because I'm adding PMA, pamco, leds and kick only so would've needed a bit of change plus I want to know that its going to be reliable.

It is also worth mentioning that I'm going with a lhs switch only and it is a K&S switch (K&S 12-0041B -http://www.kandstech.com/files/K&S_Switches.pdf) which has a two position switch for hi/lo beam and I'm running kick start only with a sprague 64000uf capacitor so I've run the always hot items through rocker switches and I ran the headlight seperate to the parker/tail light so that it could all run off 18g wire (except cap&rec/reg running 14g).

The spec sheet for that switch says that the passing switch can be run as a kill switch but I'm not sure what is required to do that. I would have thought that "passing" would have connected the power to the hi beam where to have it as a kill you'd have to earth the ignition. Not too fussed so since I didn't find a diagram for re-wiring the switch I just plan on a separate kill.

Thanks for any help

 

[Joe699]

Hi all,

Can the stock points and coils run of a pma and the rec/reg with 3 yellow wires in and red and green out? or do i have to go to fully stock set up. Tried to attach an image but photobucket aint working for me today.
Its a xs2 with only headlight and stop/taillight.

Thanks.

 

[XSLeo]

Yes, the pma just charges the battery, the pints run off the battery. If you use a cap it works the same. Points and PMA have been used together for years.
Leo

 

[Joe699]

thanks Leo

 

[zebtok]

hey guys, I just bought my first project bike last week and got a couple questions. first of all I picked up 2 xs 650's at auction on the cheap. One seems fairly solid engine wise and the other looks like it just got pulled out of a barn after 10 years. what I learned about them was that the PO was working on fixing one up and had the other and 2 more for parts before his wife finnaly made him get rid of them. So im gunna try and continue where he left off. the engine has good compression so i want to leave that alone for now and later do a rebuild on the other one. the problem I have is that the entire wiring harness is out and after reading on here I want to redo it myself as simple as I can. so I was wondering if I could use this diagram

with the stock stuff and a battery instead of an capacitor or is there anything else in that nest that I need to use also? Oh and want to run kickstart only
heres a few pics of what Im working with

 

[Austblue]

When you say stock stuff you realise that you'd need a PMA yeah? Stock charging unit won't run with a capacitor.