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some wiring diagrams
- Thread starter inxs
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- diagram electrical wiring
In the case of the battery to main fuse and reg/rec I would run the wire straight from the battery to the reg/rec. At the point you want to run the wire to the main fuse I would strip about 1/2 inch of the insulation from the first wire, about 3/4 inch off the end of the second wire, Wrap the second wire around the first, solder. Seal with liquid electrical tape.
Inthe Clymer book page 105 is a section on how to do repairs and splicing wires. Pic 15 shows three ways to splice wires. The third is the way I described
Leo
Inthe Clymer book page 105 is a section on how to do repairs and splicing wires. Pic 15 shows three ways to splice wires. The third is the way I described
Leo
mechanicScott
XS650 Addict
speez
XS650 Addict
everythng looks good but the speedo/tach is off the main of fuse bloc, better share a fuse then it being on main,if that goes (shorts out) your bike will die out,
I knocked this small change in to include the front brake switch, a change in logic for the turn signals and also included what I think is the right size cables for this harness.
Would appreciate some feedback if anyone has the time to look at my changes, I'll be buying the gear tomorrow I guess. TIA
erikatkins
XS650 Member
I am a bit of a newbie here. I bought a wiring harness off of MikesXS for my 1973 TX650. All is wired except for a few non matching wire colors in the headlight bucket and two non matching colors in the rear. In the rear the number of female and male ends don't match to the existing either. Not sure of how to connect at each end and any help would be appreciated.
I belive all existing wiring is stock. When I got the bike it did not have turn signal lights which I also need some advice on how to wire as there is only one wire on each signal and it is black.
Thanks
I belive all existing wiring is stock. When I got the bike it did not have turn signal lights which I also need some advice on how to wire as there is only one wire on each signal and it is black.
Thanks
erikatkins, Dark green, Dg, is for the right hand indicator circuit. Chocolate, Ch, is your left hand indicator circuit. hook these colours up to the wires coming out of the center of the threads for power. In the bucket you should have black wires with rings soldered on that go over the threads of the indicators for your earth.
What colored wires don't match up
What colored wires don't match up
erikatkins
XS650 Member
Thanks!
In the bucket
There is a brown male and female wire which both appear to go to the directional/horn/light switch on the handle bar. There is also a lighter brown wire which appears to go to the kill switch/break light switch on the right handle bar.
There is also a free green/yellow female wire, brown single female, brown multi-female wire, bark green multi-female and a red/black multi-female all available from the wire harness.
In the rear near the fender I have
a brown female and brown male free from the existing wiring and a red/blue and dark green free from the wiring harness.
I'll try again but when I connected the dark green to the turn light it came on solid. No flashing. Same for the chocolate. But let me give it one more try. Thanks
In the bucket
There is a brown male and female wire which both appear to go to the directional/horn/light switch on the handle bar. There is also a lighter brown wire which appears to go to the kill switch/break light switch on the right handle bar.
There is also a free green/yellow female wire, brown single female, brown multi-female wire, bark green multi-female and a red/black multi-female all available from the wire harness.
In the rear near the fender I have
a brown female and brown male free from the existing wiring and a red/blue and dark green free from the wiring harness.
I'll try again but when I connected the dark green to the turn light it came on solid. No flashing. Same for the chocolate. But let me give it one more try. Thanks
erikatkins
XS650 Member
Well the dark green is always on even when switch is off and the chocolate one seems to be dead. I've got some work to do apparently.
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
erikatkins
XS650 Member
Correction on my previous post. The dg is dead and the lighter brown is always live. The relay looked ok but I am not sure how to test it.
sandersg
XS650 Member
Can someone tell me if what appears to a a "hot" (non switched) wire in these diagrams to the rectifier is required to be so? I was wondering why this wire couldn't also be switched.
Thanks
Thanks
...some simplified wiring circuits...
sandersg
XS650 Member
I see a red "hot" (non-switched wire) wire and a brown switched wire to the rectifier in the last diagram.
I assume there is a good reason to isolate the single "hot" line with a seperate 20 amp fuse from the rest of the circuits. But, I'm just checking. I have a fuse block with 6 fuses but has one common wire to the hot side. I could switch this and use for all other circuits, but I would have to buy a a single fuse block or install a single 20 amp in-line fuze to accomplish what is shown in the diagrams.
I assume there is a good reason to isolate the single "hot" line with a seperate 20 amp fuse from the rest of the circuits. But, I'm just checking. I have a fuse block with 6 fuses but has one common wire to the hot side. I could switch this and use for all other circuits, but I would have to buy a a single fuse block or install a single 20 amp in-line fuze to accomplish what is shown in the diagrams.
The red wire from the rectifier is power out of the rec to charge the battery. The only time power flows through that wire is when the bike is running, it don't need a switch.
Do you know what a diode is? If not, it is a one way valve for electricity. The rectifier is three pairs of diodes that are linked together to convert AC voltage to DC voltage. They are set up so power only flows from the rectifier to the battery.
The only way for power to flow from the battery to the rec on the red wire is if at least one of the six diodes are bad. Seldom happens.
On the 20 amp fuseyou want this between the battery and the rest of the electrics. This will protect, in case of a short in the wires from the fuse, through the main switch to your fuse box. You could run without but carry a fire extinguisher, it may come in handy to put oiut the fire.
An inline fuse holder works well. I like to wire the rectifier red wire right to battery positive. I then hook the fuse to battery positive. You can hook the rec red wire after the fuse, either way is fine.
On the 20 amp fuse holder I hook one lead right to the battery. Then run wire from the other lead to the key switch. You want the main fuse as close to the battery positive as you can. That way it can protect as much of the harness as possible.
On the brown wire after the switch it is hooed to both the reg/rec as well as the brushes. For the alternator to make electricity it needs a magnetic feild created in the rotor. It creates this magnetic feild by running battery voltage to the brushes on the brown wire. This voltage flows through the bryshes and rotor and out to the reg on the green wire.
Now the reg reads battery voltage on the brown wire. If the battery voltage is below the preset 14.5 volts the reg turns on the transister and this grounds the green wire. When the green wire is grounded the power flows, creating the magnetic feild, exciting the stator into producing AC voltage. This AC is sent on the three white wires to the rectifier where the diode sets convert it to DC then is sent to the battery on the red wire.
This charges the battery. As the battery voltage rises and reaches the preset 14.5 volts it turns off the transiter, stopping the power flow and the alternator stops making electricity. The voltage drops below the 14.5 volts it turns the transiaster on, restarting the cycle. It repeats the on/off cylce thousands of time a minute so the battery stays at 14.5 volts.
On the older seperate reg/rec the reg did it's thing before the rotor instead of after and being mechanical was much slower, it only cycled hundreds of times a minute.
Leo
Do you know what a diode is? If not, it is a one way valve for electricity. The rectifier is three pairs of diodes that are linked together to convert AC voltage to DC voltage. They are set up so power only flows from the rectifier to the battery.
The only way for power to flow from the battery to the rec on the red wire is if at least one of the six diodes are bad. Seldom happens.
On the 20 amp fuseyou want this between the battery and the rest of the electrics. This will protect, in case of a short in the wires from the fuse, through the main switch to your fuse box. You could run without but carry a fire extinguisher, it may come in handy to put oiut the fire.
An inline fuse holder works well. I like to wire the rectifier red wire right to battery positive. I then hook the fuse to battery positive. You can hook the rec red wire after the fuse, either way is fine.
On the 20 amp fuse holder I hook one lead right to the battery. Then run wire from the other lead to the key switch. You want the main fuse as close to the battery positive as you can. That way it can protect as much of the harness as possible.
On the brown wire after the switch it is hooed to both the reg/rec as well as the brushes. For the alternator to make electricity it needs a magnetic feild created in the rotor. It creates this magnetic feild by running battery voltage to the brushes on the brown wire. This voltage flows through the bryshes and rotor and out to the reg on the green wire.
Now the reg reads battery voltage on the brown wire. If the battery voltage is below the preset 14.5 volts the reg turns on the transister and this grounds the green wire. When the green wire is grounded the power flows, creating the magnetic feild, exciting the stator into producing AC voltage. This AC is sent on the three white wires to the rectifier where the diode sets convert it to DC then is sent to the battery on the red wire.
This charges the battery. As the battery voltage rises and reaches the preset 14.5 volts it turns off the transiter, stopping the power flow and the alternator stops making electricity. The voltage drops below the 14.5 volts it turns the transiaster on, restarting the cycle. It repeats the on/off cylce thousands of time a minute so the battery stays at 14.5 volts.
On the older seperate reg/rec the reg did it's thing before the rotor instead of after and being mechanical was much slower, it only cycled hundreds of times a minute.
Leo
On a PMA the alternator rotor has permanent magnets in it so no power is needed to create a magnetic feild. It makes electricity any time the rotor is spinning. It doesn't turn the magnetic feild on/off.
The reg/rec works diferently on them After the AC is rectified to DC, any voltage above 14.5 volts is shunted to ground through the heat sink and creates heat to use the excess voltage.
Leo
The reg/rec works diferently on them After the AC is rectified to DC, any voltage above 14.5 volts is shunted to ground through the heat sink and creates heat to use the excess voltage.
Leo
jurand
XS650 Enthusiast
looks like you connected blue wire going to blinkers indicator ONLY to yellow wire. this way you will have working indicator only with left blinkers...
shaunster is using three positions switch for headlight (OFF/LO_ON/HI_ON) so it is probably indicating three positions and only two are used...
sandersg
XS650 Member
XSLeo - thanks, very helpful. I had misinterpreted the 20amp unswitched line as always hot to the rectifier, but now understand that it charges the battery. Makes sense.
As I mentioned, but problem is that my purchased fuse block has a ganged hot side with a single wire. My fix is to either install an inline 20 amp fuse line to the rectifier, then run a switched hot line to the fuse block for everything else, or just buy another fuse block with individual power supply to each fuse.
At the moment I'm planning on using the stock alternator and rectifier. May upgrade in the future. Any suggestions on how to check my rectifier to make sure it's good?
Thanks
As I mentioned, but problem is that my purchased fuse block has a ganged hot side with a single wire. My fix is to either install an inline 20 amp fuse line to the rectifier, then run a switched hot line to the fuse block for everything else, or just buy another fuse block with individual power supply to each fuse.
At the moment I'm planning on using the stock alternator and rectifier. May upgrade in the future. Any suggestions on how to check my rectifier to make sure it's good?
Thanks
You only need the fuse between the battery and harness, not between the rec and battery. Some diagrams show the rec fused with the key powered from between the fuse and rec. Either way is ok.
The repair manual has the test procedures in it. I could spend a few minutes rewriting it for you but as nice a guy as I am, I'm not that nice.
Leo
The repair manual has the test procedures in it. I could spend a few minutes rewriting it for you but as nice a guy as I am, I'm not that nice.
Leo
avenue
push.
so, let me beat this 20amp primary supply some some.
the key needs to be protected (thus, protecting the rest of the harness), or just the battery/capacitor?
Right now, I am pulling power for the keyed switch (and onto the rest of the harness) between the reg/rec and 20amp. same as post #231 (pg. 12).
but, I see in this harness http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=199752#post199752 the keyed switch is protected by the 20amp.
clarification?
thanks for your time,
avenue.
the key needs to be protected (thus, protecting the rest of the harness), or just the battery/capacitor?
Right now, I am pulling power for the keyed switch (and onto the rest of the harness) between the reg/rec and 20amp. same as post #231 (pg. 12).
but, I see in this harness http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=199752#post199752 the keyed switch is protected by the 20amp.
clarification?
thanks for your time,
avenue.
Ok, lets try again, you need the main fuse between the power source and everything else.
Run the red wire from the reg/rec to the battery. These two things are the power source.
Now run a red wire from the battery to a 20 amp fuse, from the fuse to the main switch. From the main switch to your other fuses. From those fuses to the items you want powered.
Leo
Run the red wire from the reg/rec to the battery. These two things are the power source.
Now run a red wire from the battery to a 20 amp fuse, from the fuse to the main switch. From the main switch to your other fuses. From those fuses to the items you want powered.
Leo
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