some wiring diagrams

I just got a tail light and the only wires that it has coming out of it is red and black .. I have no idea wat ti do so it will work and will light up when I hit the breaks
 
Hook a jumper wire from a battery negitive to the housing. Touch the red wire to the battery positive. Then touch the black wire to the positive. Which wire lit the light bright? That wire is the brake ligh. The other is the tail light.
Leo
 
If you have an alloy rear fender with the tail light on that, I think you're going to need to send an earth from the light to the frame.

If steel okay
 
If you have an alloy rear fender with the tail light on that, I think you're going to need to send an earth from the light to the frame.

If steel okay

aluminum still conducts electricity. im assuming that this is the particular alloy your talking about.

is there a way to have just the tail light and it get brighter when brake is applied?

yes. a running light/brake light housing and a dual filament bulb or equivalent LED, usually a 1157 and a brake switch.
 
The rear fender is mounted on rubber bushings so it is necessary to run a separate wire from the tail light housing to the frame. You may measure a ground on the fender, but that is what is known as an incidental ground, possibly from the mounting bolts wearing through the rubber bushings and making incidental contact, but it is not a reliable ground.

Here is a list of other parts of the bike that we tend to think are grounded, but they too may have only an incidental ground:

1. Front fender.
2. Handlebars.
3. Headlight bucket.
4. Battery box.
5. Gas tank.
6. Carbs.
7. Wheels.
8. Seat pan.
9. Tach housing.
10. Speedo housing.

The more confusing part is both the right and left side handlebar controls. There is a separate black wire from the frame that does provide a ground to the left side horn button, but the start button on the ride side control gets its ground from the ground on the left side that makes contact with the handle bars. So, if your start button does not work, try the horn. If the horn works then the ground wire from the frame to the horn button is OK but it is not making contact with the handle bars or the start button is not making contact with the handle bars. If the horn does not work, then it's likely that the ground wire to the horn is broken. Some early models have a separate ground wire attached to the handle bars directly. Some models have a wire from the handle bars to the triple tree, but that arrangement depends on having electrical continuity through the ball bearing in the yoke which is iffy at best and poor practice if done at the factory. The grease in the ball bearings does not make a good conductor and the current from the horn can leave pit marks in the ball bearings.
 
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The only way to eliminate the battery is to convert from the stock feild excited alternator to a Permanent Magnet Alternator, PMA for short.
Search PMA and you will find out all you need.
Leo
 
So I have searched the thread(s) and I am still scratching my head a bit. I have a 79' I am doin a pretty simple bare bones if you will bobber. Headlight, Taillight, stock points, stock everything pretty much except NO STARTER. KICK ONLY. I understand I will have to keep my battery but I am confused and can't seem to find a thread that is helping me out with the wiring. Is there anyone out there that can steer me in the rite direction. Your help and guidance is much appreciated and thanks in advance.
 
This is a real shot in the dark here, but does anyone happen to have a simplified wiring diagram for a 79 2F that's got headlight, tail light, turn signals, no starter (kick only), pamco ignition and everything else stock? If not, no biggie, I can try to piece it together. Would love to build my own harness but don't really have the know-how :)

Dave
 
This is a real shot in the dark here, but does anyone happen to have a simplified wiring diagram for a 79 2F that's got headlight, tail light, turn signals, no starter (kick only), pamco ignition and everything else stock?
Dave

Like this:

simplifiedWiring_fuseblock.jpg
 
Phail, that is great! Thanks. How would I modify it if I'm not going to use the PMA and capacitor? I don't think I have the money to spend on it just yet (although I will eventually). I imagine I can use the stock charging system in the same place as the PMA, yes? And would I put the battery in place of the capacitor as is? Seriously though this is great and gets me off to a solid start, thank you.

Dave
 
How would I modify it if I'm not going to use the PMA and capacitor? I imagine I can use the stock charging system in the same place as the PMA, yes? And would I put the battery in place of the capacitor as is?

Yeah, it's pretty much the same. There is a whole bunch of wiring diagrams in this thread. A diagram for every configuration. Just read this whole thread and you will be an expert.
 
ok so i need to find a wiring diagram for a 78 2f0 that has a tail light, headlight, ignition switch that turns on/off and turns to crank, no kickstart, Boyer Bransden Micro Power Micro Digital Ignition System, and fuse box. please help i need this asap>>>!!!
 
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