some wiring diagrams

Hi MiniD-
Excellent use of images in your wiring diagram! Leo gave us good instructions for wiring the neutral light, but do you have any idea how to wire in turn indicators (which I think you were also asking about)?

Thanks.

Jon

To hook in a neutrallight on that diagram MiniDanzig, run a wire from after the key switch to an indicator bulb, from the bulb to the neutral switch on the transmission.
When the engine is running power is sent to the bulb, from the bulb to the neutral switch, when in neutral the switch grounds and the light lights up.
It won't light up without the engine running.
Leo
 
The use of components looks great.
I'm pretty sure Pamco Pete and others strongly recommend 20amp fuse between the battery and rec/reg (unswitched) and a 7.5 amp fuse between the kill switch (not on there) pamco system to save frying the ignition if the key is left on.

This is my take on what I've been studying while trying to do my wiring. I may be completely wrong but I've spent hours looking at the threads and diagrams.

Those more knowledgable, correct me if I'm wrong, it will help with my wiring as well.

Cheers Pete
 
On this Diagram, if the bike is not running there is no power to the ignition.
On turn signals run w ire from after the key switch to a turn signal flasher, I would use a brown wire. From the flasher to the turn signal switch, I would use brow/white.
If using stock switches, run this brown/white to the brown/white of the turnsignal switch. After the sdwitch the choclate wire goes to the left side signal lights, the dark green to the right side signal lights. If you want indicater lights then run a wire from the left and right sides up to bulbs in the dash and then to ground.
If you have a gauge that has just one indcater light then you will need to add diodes in from the left and right sides then hook the diodes together then to the indicater.
If you search turn signal you will find a thread with this diode set up.
Leo
 
hey Leo thanks for the quick help on that one!

Pete, good call i don't know how i forgot to put the kill in there. You start staring at these things long enough they all sort of blend together. here is an updated version with the kill switch, fuses, and neutral indicator. can you recall why pamcopete called for a 7.5 amp fuse? would 10 amp be the same.

it would be awesome if you guys could tell me if you see any problems, oversights, or overkill in this updated version...

simplifiedWiring2.jpg


Thanks guys!
 
Thanks for making it so clear Leo!

On this Diagram, if the bike is not running there is no power to the ignition.
On turn signals run w ire from after the key switch to a turn signal flasher, I would use a brown wire. From the flasher to the turn signal switch, I would use brow/white.
If using stock switches, run this brown/white to the brown/white of the turnsignal switch. After the sdwitch the choclate wire goes to the left side signal lights, the dark green to the right side signal lights. If you want indicater lights then run a wire from the left and right sides up to bulbs in the dash and then to ground.
If you have a gauge that has just one indcater light then you will need to add diodes in from the left and right sides then hook the diodes together then to the indicater.
If you search turn signal you will find a thread with this diode set up.
Leo
 
hey Leo thanks for the quick help on that one!

Pete, good call i don't know how i forgot to put the kill in there. You start staring at these things long enough they all sort of blend together. here is an updated version with the kill switch, fuses, and neutral indicator. can you recall why pamcopete called for a 7.5 amp fuse? would 10 amp be the same.

it would be awesome if you guys could tell me if you see any problems, oversights, or overkill in this updated version...

simplifiedWiring2.jpg


Thanks guys!

Not sure why, when Jamasgs4 did a diagram for me he said the 7.5 was absolutely necessary. I've attached the link to that thread with the diagram.
Pete
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10265
 
ok well thanks for that, dually noted! hah. can't argue with those guys so i will definitely be taking that advice. updated version...

simplifiedWiring2-1.jpg
 
Just noticed your fuses for the lighting. I would delete the one between the brake switch and the light. Move the one to the head light to the verticle yellow. That way it protects all the lighting.
Where you have the brake light fuse only protects the light itself, no protection for a failed brake switch.
Adding the turns is like adding the neutral light. Just tap in to power after the key, run the power to a flasher, then to the turn switch, then to lights.
Leo
 
On the fuses, the 7.5 amp will blow quicker if the reg goes bad and sends to much power to the ignition. The 10 amp may hold just long enough to hurt the Pamco.
A fuse should be about 25 to 35 % more than the current draw. The coil draw on a 2.5 ohm coil is about 5.8 amps at 14.5 volts. 5.8 + 25% = 7.25 amps, 5.8 + 35% = 7.83 amps. The 7.5 splits that pretty well.
Leo
 
Just noticed your fuses for the lighting. I would delete the one between the brake switch and the light. Move the one to the head light to the verticle yellow. That way it protects all the lighting.
Where you have the brake light fuse only protects the light itself, no protection for a failed brake switch.
Leo

awesome, thanks again for all the help Leo, that makes a lot more sense. so here is where i am at now:

simplifiedWiring3.jpg


now i just need to figure out how to properly route things thru this little fuse block i picked up.

21ttUtV5TgL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
That's the fuse block I used. Leave your fuse between the Cap and key where it is.
The wire coming from the key hooks to the bolt on the side of that fuse block.
It feeds one side of all 6 fuses. The spade lugs along the sides are power taps for each fuse.
Just hook the yellow wire to one fuse.
The red wire to the engine stop switch to one fuse.
The green wire for the neutral light to one fuse.
Your turns of a fuse.
Your horn off a fuse.
Anything you can think of, just hook to a fuse and go. If you run out of fuses, some thing can be hooked together. Like the turns and horn can be on one. The neutral can go anywhere.
About the only thing that should be on it's own fuse is the ignition.
Leo
 
That's the fuse block I used. Leave your fuse between the Cap and key where it is.
The wire coming from the key hooks to the bolt on the side of that fuse block.
It feeds one side of all 6 fuses. The spade lugs along the sides are power taps for each fuse.
Just hook the yellow wire to one fuse.
The red wire to the engine stop switch to one fuse.
The green wire for the neutral light to one fuse.
Your turns of a fuse.
Your horn off a fuse.
Anything you can think of, just hook to a fuse and go. If you run out of fuses, some thing can be hooked together. Like the turns and horn can be on one. The neutral can go anywhere.
About the only thing that should be on it's own fuse is the ignition.
Leo

G'day Leo,
As you explain it in Layman terms I start to get a handle on it a bit more as well.
Thanks for taking the time.
Pete
 
That's the fuse block I used. Leave your fuse between the Cap and key where it is.
The wire coming from the key hooks to the bolt on the side of that fuse block.
It feeds one side of all 6 fuses. The spade lugs along the sides are power taps for each fuse.
Just hook the yellow wire to one fuse.
The red wire to the engine stop switch to one fuse.
The green wire for the neutral light to one fuse.
Your turns of a fuse.
Your horn off a fuse.
Anything you can think of, just hook to a fuse and go. If you run out of fuses, some thing can be hooked together. Like the turns and horn can be on one. The neutral can go anywhere.
About the only thing that should be on it's own fuse is the ignition.
Leo

thanks so much. so it's looking to me like this is the solution. i love the simplicity of the fuse block. if you get a chance check this one out and let me know if anything here looks wonky.

simplifiedWiring_fuseblock.jpg


and if any of you guys are looking for one of these fuse blocks Amazon has them for under $10 currently. http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-1...KLNQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330501527&sr=8-1
 
Yes, that's the idea. If you want to add things like turns or a horn, just hook to a fuse and run the wire.
I found the fuse block at Advanced Auto for $8.95 a few years ago. Right in with the fuses and wires. It might be more now.
Leo
 
Blade fuses have a plastic body and two prongs that fit into sockets. They are commonly used in automobiles and can be mounted in a variety of ways. They are available not only in several amp strengths but also in four different sizes. Regular (ATC/ATO) blade fuses were developed in 1976 for low-voltage applications in vehicles providing anywhere from 1 to 40 amps. The difference between an ATC and an ATO fuse is that an ATC's fusible link is sealed or "closed,"and an ATO fuse is "open,"meaning it has a small opening that exposes the fusible link to the air. Like all blade fuses, they are color-coded to indicate their amps. Some blade fuses also have an indicator light that glows brightly when the fuse is blown, which eliminates guess-work and increases efficiency even when blown fuses are located in hard-to-reach areas.



In the 1990s, mini fuses were developed so that more fuses could be installed in the same space. Low-profile mini (APS) fuses are similar to mini (ATM) fuses, but their low overall height allows for space and weight savings. They are typically used as replacement fuses in new vehicles. Maxi (APX) blade fuses are used when a high amperage circuit is required from 20-80 amps.

I like the ATC sealed fuse to keep out rain better your fuse box isn't in a nice dry cab like a car or truck, larger size is easier to see and change, I keep a couple extras in a plactic baggie with bike resgistration and insurance papers under the seat next to battery
 
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