Straightening headlamp brackets XS650B 1975

[Grewth]

Anyone worked out a way to pull out the bend in these ?
Strangely, all the XS1/XS2 type brackets I've got are straight.
All the '75 B type brackets I've got are damaged (bent) bar one.
The only way to get them straight I can think of is by drilling out all the spot welds from the reverse side, removing the doubler plates, and tapping the dent/bend out, then welding the reinforcement panels back in with a MIG welder.
Messy. At least with the '75 they are painted not chromed, but I'd be happier if I could get them straight without cutting and welding

 

[Signal]

I would try making a dolly to fit the shape and using a press to press the ear straight. The ran pushing on the dolly. Use card board between the bracket and the press to avoid bruising the metal.

 

[gggGary]

I've gotten some pretty bad ears into "just a bit of bondo before painting" shape, with various dollies, drifts, shaped hardwood blocks etc. As always don't try to get one spot perfect, work your way around the various bends slowly bringing everything back to alignment together. haven't used heat, but guess it could be tried. might make stretching more likely...

 

[Wingedwheel]

A puller with some hot glue will help get a lot of it. Might have to make a holding jig.

 

[Dom]

That's strange because they are a bit out of shape on my 75 too.

 

[Jan_P]

Not sure I understand it right or how it looks at the backside
I would look into having a stump of 2x4 under the dent underside .
Or thinner plank
Or a round bar
And hitting the outermost round edge outside with a wooden mallet or other soft hammer

Perhaps having the wood in the same angle as the dent 30 - 40 degrees and hitting at 2 o clock
Starting lightly see where it goes.

A picture of the backside helps there can be room to insert a piece of flatbar or sheetmal and whacking on that

If there is space the flatbar helps with the 2x4 method above also

 

[Wingedwheel]

Jan the ears on these earlier bikes are hollow sandwiched construction. They always take the brunt of any blows to the bucket or blinkers and collapses the ear but you can’t just beat it out from behind because it’s actually two layers.

 

[Jan_P]

Still curios about how it looks
I have been working with a tinsmith hammer in my hand for 3 years so there are many tricks
Leather bags with gravel inside
If possible please provide pictures
When it comes to car dents ( Which I have not worked with ) one rule is to apply the force opposite direction the impact force.
For car dents there are systems welding a pin and use a slide hammer pulling on that pin
One can do it with a stick weld pin
A car shop will have them
I don't know which one is the best working system

https://eshop.wurth.fi/Produktkateg...ller/31066007010302.cyid/3106.cgid/sv/SE/EUR/

I have tried with glue on XS 650 tanks with poor results
The glue has the advantage that it can save the Paint

I hear it is multiple layers at the backside .But if short distance in between .There can be flexibility enough in the lower one to take support of the wood block to hold it and then elastically spring back without damage

If a few spot welds at the sides grinding them off and having a leather bag with gravel and carefully beat it back
a couple of new spot weld can be a Plan . In house solution.
I give that a fair chance of becoming " Perfect " without having seen the picture. If A few spotwelds why not.

The welded on pins Can make marks and an uneven surface and if it is thicker than usual panel metal
not work.

Some used to drill a hole and put in a pop rivet keeping the shaft / pin there pulling in that
And then drill out the rivet and weld repair the drill hole grinding .

 

[Wingedwheel]

As small as they are if you’re going to do all that work you may as well just Bondo.

 

[DaveO]

Drill a hole or holes in the reverse over the dent but not through the front. Use a bolt or metal rod and small hammer to tap the dents out. Fill the holes.



Funny, mines a 75 and both mine are wonky.

Dave