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Stripped exhaust mount/footpeg mount stud
- Thread starter Squishman
- Start date
Maybe even inside the frame more hidden?
Squishman
XS650 Addict
I'd have to go back out and look. I cannot go in much or any at all. The slip on is as close as I want to go now to the shock.
Do you have prior experience with JB Weld glue? I believe you could use an appropriate die to both clean up the damaged foot peg mount threads and help build up what material is missing with a light JB Weld application cut with the die positioned bottomed out on the post backwards. To Cut threads way back off the post for added strength
Squishman
XS650 Addict
I do not! But what a great idea! I wonder if I would be able to accomplish that myself if I get the die. I could bring a nut that fits to the hardware store to get one.
Squishman
XS650 Addict
Can you elaborate on this? I do not understand clearly. Thx! Maybe once I see the die, it'll make more sense to me.
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Can you straighten the mounting tab out? I have my exhaust hanger bracket mounted to the solid unthreaded part of that stud and the footpeg presses up against it. Washer and nut go on as normal
I am still thinking the best solution is repair the threads, eliminate a washer and replace the nut. No cutting, drilling, fabbing or bending required. Sometimes the simplest answer is the best.
Squishman
XS650 Addict
I'll see, but the slip on can't move in.
Cut the shaft off flush with the raised base, drill and tap it, there may be enough metal thickness there to get sufficient thread engagement.
Other wise have another turned up by a local shop, cut the whole thing off and weld a new one on.
Other wise have another turned up by a local shop, cut the whole thing off and weld a new one on.
Wirenutt
XS650 Addict
A little late to the game, but I would use a cutoff wheel and cut off the threads, then center punch in the carefully laid out center of the protruding shaft, drill a hole whatever size the tap drill is for that stud I cut off, being careful to drill straight and true to the center of the shaft, then tap it and buy/made a stud (set screw maybe?) so that the original amount of threads stick out, and either locktite it in place, or first drill a cross hole to be able to access the stud to weld it in place.
Edit: After I posted this, I see RC4MAN posted almost the same thing while I was typing mine!
Edit: After I posted this, I see RC4MAN posted almost the same thing while I was typing mine!
Remarking I have drilled out broken studs from steam turbine cases, and taken out the offending part such that it looked like a helicoil, almost... One uses many different drill diameters so that as they drift off center the force vector can be steered to correct the drift. It takes a long time. If, after drilling the shaft, you then have the misfortune to snap off a tap in the pretty hole...then yerphuckedrightangood. I expect I'd cut off about 8mm and weld on a bolt...using tig and an experienced hand, if I couldn't save the threaded end. I expect you can save it. Mind the welding currents don't fubar the bike electrics... Best o luck.
Another take thinking out loud Perhaps worth consider.
get at piece of pipe same outer diameter as where the footrest goes or slightly smaller
tight fit inner diameter over the damaged thread
Smash it in over the damaged thread and spot weld it there at the end or both ends
Then make / cut a thread on that pipe stump .Getting a nut for that thread
If that fails drill a center hole and thread.
get at piece of pipe same outer diameter as where the footrest goes or slightly smaller
tight fit inner diameter over the damaged thread
Smash it in over the damaged thread and spot weld it there at the end or both ends
Then make / cut a thread on that pipe stump .Getting a nut for that thread
If that fails drill a center hole and thread.
Squishman
XS650 Addict
First thing I'll try is get the correct die, chase the threads and see if I have enough good threads without a washer. Then use blue locktite since I won't tighten it super tight. Hope that does the trick.
I think you're on a good track, first determine if there is enough length and threads there. If not I would cut it off, drill and replace it with a stud made from a bolt, A few cheap welds, not much more than tack welds. I've done similar on broken and fubar upper shock studs.
Bob Wegman
XS650 Enthusiast
My 1980 650 special had that same issue. I cut off the threaded portion of the stud, then drilled and tapped the unthreaded portion of the stud. I used a replacement stud that had a reduced diameter on half of the length (8mm I think) and the other half of the stud was 10 or 12 mm (the original size). Worked out fine.
Squishman
XS650 Addict
My local hardware store didn't have the die. That came just an hour ago from Amazon. I had made the bracket and got new ss acorn nuts. Had most everything ready. This is how it turned out. Although, I may make a nicer looking bracket later on. One that I won't have to grind the side down or at least grind in the right spot. The threads chased really great. I really appreciate everyone's advise. Thx XSTime for the great idea to relocate the mount! Oh yeah, and I was still able to use a washer. The nut is tight, but not super tight. I used blue locktite.
Attachments
Squishman
XS650 Addict
You can't see it too well in the shot, but I got a 3/4 inch chrome spacer behind the strap and a longer upper brake cylinder bolt.
