Stripped thread at Oil Delivery Pipe

xsPete

xsPete

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G'day all,

Looking for any ideas but think I;m just hoping for an easy out on this problem.

The thread on the engine case that takes the gland nut (or whatever you call it) that the pipes fits to is stripped bad.

Now this engine has a total of 60 Klm's on it from a total 750 rephase rebuild and I'm really hoping I don't have to pull the pots to get the right alignment to put in a helicoil.

I didn't know it was stripped till I took it for a ride and there was oil pissed everywhere when I got back.

Is there some trick way I can get this hole retapped while it's still in the bike with pots still on.
They're a Mikes 750 kit, so less clearance I think.

The other issue is no matter what, I'll have swarf going down that hole towards the pump.

I thought I was all but over the big dramas of a 4 year build and was just going to be tweaking it:banghead:
 
I'd resign myself to pulling the pots. Thinking that one of those inserts might be a better fix for this application than heli coil if you can find the proper threading. I'd be loading the cutter with Vaseline to catch the swarf and cutting her slow and easy. Might be tricky. Sorry about yer luck?

To add, there's a lesson here to be had and it's called torque spec.......PO's be damned.
 
had to this on my 74 TX, practically impossible without pulling the cylinders no room to get the thread cutter in or the Helli-coil inserted, good time to replace the cam chain, guides and rings
 
Having a machine shop is handy. Could fabricate a duplicate/replica fitting with slightly oversize threads, kinda like the oversize thread oil drain plugs used on cars.

There's also a way to use electroless nickle plating to increase the thread diameter slightly, so you can modify and re-use the original fitting...
 
didn't see you have a low mile rebuild, you could try JB weld clean the fitting and the cases with carb/brake cleaner VERY CLEAN put the nut in with the JB and let it set up hard before re-assembly, keep a wrench on that fitting so it doesn't move when you tighten the tube nut
 
I took a standard pipe fitting, cut it in half, cut the fitting that has the crush ring on it for the XS in half, welded the 2 together. Tapped the case for NPT, put some good sealant on it, ran it down into the block. So far no leaks, have had a bit of time on it. Remember not to over tighten any thing harder then aluminum or use T tape on NPT into aluminum, or you can crack the block.. Also note that the tiny hole on the orig fitting is prob there for oiling reason, so it is important to keep part of it..
 
RatyXS said:
..
Click to expand...


TwoManyXS1Bs said:
...
Click to expand...

nj1639 said:
To add, there's a lesson here to be had and it's called torque spec.......PO's be damned.
Click to expand...


Tks for the feedback guys,

I just located an old thread where gggGary had listed a German website twinsinn. The have 16/20M bolts. I've sent them an email (in English) I'll see if I have ant luck there.

Anyone know of any other suppliers for the union in 16 instead of standard 14 x 1.5M
16 x 1.5 VA ÖL024 ..

- twinsinn €18 ..shop .. ölfilter,öl.....
 
All you need to do is stick a rag down in the hole, then fill the hole with grease. Should be good to go if you do it correctly. Just make sure the rag doesn't fall I to the case. Once you see how the hole goes into the case you will see what I'm talking about.
 
I've done the JB Weld on one. Done correctly it will work fine until way down the road when the engine comes out for old age/overhaul. Just don't use that junk Quik-Weld, and give the JB a good day to set.
 
weaselbeak said:
I've done the JB Weld on one. Done correctly it will work fine until way down the road when the engine comes out for old age/overhaul. Just don't use that junk Quik-Weld, and give the JB a good day to set.
Click to expand...

RatyXS said:
All you need to do is stick a rag down in the hole, then fill the hole with grease. Should be good to go if you do it correctly. Just make sure the rag doesn't fall I to the case. Once you see how the hole goes into the case you will see what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...

TwoManyXS1Bs said:
I don't like the idea of chips falling in there. Could you hang the engine upside-down before tapping?
Click to expand...

jayel said:
didn't see you have a low mile rebuild, you could try JB weld clean the fitting and the cases with carb/brake cleaner VERY CLEAN put the nut in with the JB and let it set up hard before re-assembly, keep a wrench on that fitting so it doesn't move when you tighten the tube nut
Click to expand...

Looks like 2 with positive experinece with JB Weld.
Looks like I'm thinking of the JB Weld option.
I've never used and don't know anyone that has but, ro crack the pots wold be like ripping my throat out. With only 60 Klm's on the clock I don't want to be pulling it out and pulling it apart. Whemn that time comes, then redo this fitting properly as TwoManyXS1B said, with the the block upside down.

i'll look into JB Weld more before I jump in. If I take the plunge I reckon I'll pull up ever 20 Klm an check fpr ages while shitting myself.

I appreciate all the input, thanks you blokes.
 
weaselbeak said:
I've done the JB Weld on one. Done correctly it will work fine until way down the road when the engine comes out for old age/overhaul. Just don't use that junk Quik-Weld, and give the JB a good day to set.
Click to expand...

Tks Weaselbeak,
Can you give me the 101 on how you did it prperly.
I can still srew the union in and all the way down, it won't nip up though.
So can I clean it all up, apply the JB, svrew it back in, leave it a couple of days to set and good to go?

If you could give detail on how you cleaned it 1st any prep work to the union or hole in the block etc would give me some confidence. I've never played with this stuff before.
 
I was just doing a google search on oil delivery pipe, just busted my nut, and it brought up a guy in Australia that was making oversize fitting for stripped cases.
 
if you can screw it in but just wont tighten, (I assume that what 'nip up' means)
Could you use a thread sealer? Commercial red locktight? The locktite we use at work is really thick(viscous) cant remember the number, 545? I think?
 
Damn you guys are still trying to figure out how to do this?. It's not rocket science, lol. Slap some grease in the hole and retap it. If any tiny shavings of aluminum would get into the engine, the oil filter will snag them up. A tiny bit of aluminum is not going to score a bearing ect. Change the oil after a ride for piece of mind. A lot of over thinking here. Lol
 
Perhaps worth mention; A common way to strip this is by tightening the jam nut without having a "stop wrench" on the adapter. It's a hard place to get to but worth the time even if it means butchering a wrench to fit....
 

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