Tearing down my 77 continues....

What class of bolts are the ones that attach the rear sprocket? The oems are not marked and I picked some up that are metric 8.8 . Those should be strong enough?? Is there someplace in the Clymer that show that torque values? I can't find it anywhere.
 
No torque setting in my Haynes manual either but THIS form XS650 club of Australia gives a good guide. These bolts also have locking washers, so no need to go crazy. (the M8 front disc bolts are only at 14 lb/ft)
 
The oems are not marked and I picked some up that are metric 8.8 . Those should be strong enough??

Anything on the bike that's shear/pull strengthened is (AFIAK) grade 6 (old style designation, now would be 5.8) so 8.8 is over the top, but that's fine.

These bolts also have locking washers, so no need to go crazy. (the M8 front disc bolts are only at 14 lb/ft)

Your advice is good, but...

Keep in mind that torque settings have zero to do with bolt strength. An 8.8 bolt can hold a lot more torque than that. But it's low, because you're going into aluminum, which cannot hold that kind of torque.

For instance, if you used a grade 1 bolt to hold the sprocket on (which is somewhere around white metal that dinky cars are made of) you could torque it to 14lbs, but i'm betting it would shear rather quickly.
 
Sundie, you've mentioned "class 6" bolts in a few of your posts. I've been around metric bolts for quite a while, and never heard of them. Do you mind filling us in on that one? :cheers:
 
Funny how making a living keeps getting in my way? Anyhow here is what I've been doing the last week or so when I could shoehorn in the time. Installed the swingarm with the needle bearing conversion. Some removal of powdercoat from the ends of the pivot was necessary to get it to fit into the frame. Also had to dremel some powder coat from the axle slot because it wasn't fitting. Fitted up the wheel enough to roll it out today in order to spray under the left side while inspecting for leaks. Actually I think I'll just change the sprocket and washer and get the new clutch actuator installed, new clutch cable and put this shiny left side cover on.
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Oh whatever that cheap parts cleaner from O Reillys is/was in that can laying there empty. Man that stuff comes out FAST! Gotta get some degreaser and do the jugs and case still. I don't want to put those shiny covers on til I get the rest of the engine degreased.
Still need to put the kickstart oil seal in and the tach oil seal and o ring in. As far as I can tell ,no leaks this side.
How's yours coming along? Will you be done in order to ride it to the HoAME show June 6th? That's my goal.Well sooner if I can but then is sort of a dead line.
http://www.hoame.com/bikeshow/
 
Nice! i should probably get some of that stuff because my left side is all nasty.
I just took my cylinders to Donell's Motorcycle in Independence to get bored, The guy from Cyclops said that they were the best in the area and it's only gonna run me $80 where the guy in Lawrence wanted $140 to do it...
Check out my thread to see what I did to my new pistons, Hopefully that will prolong their life a little.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=428&page=6

But as soon as I get those back, All i've got to do is assemble the engine and put it in the bike, mess with the electrics, and then tune up everything...
hopefully by the time school's out i'll be ready to go
 
I put a new kick starter oil seal in..the top is just a hair below flush with the cover. It has been a month or two since I pried the old one out and maybe it needs to go down farther? Looking at it, underneath it, there is a gap. Drive it down farther with something?
 
Today's task is to install the new clutch actuator assembly. New parts are great. Having taken them off and not remember for sure how they came off is not so great.
New and old parts.
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I was a bit confused as to what these parts were at first until I realized the peg was a new one to hook the spring to ( I just used the old one still in the hole) and the rubber washer fitted down in between the two gear parts. I didn't notice there being a rubber piece down in there before.
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My question for today's XS lesson is : Is this the correct orientation for the actuator before I put it back together?
Second question is, On the little arm there are two holes to put the pin that has the little cotter key. The original one only had one hole. Why a second hole and where should I put mine? I have a new cable from 650central. Somewhere I think in the paperwork that came with it is a mention about a different hole....I think?
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it only goes together right one way pumps and you shouldn't have any big pieces left over:thumbsup:,
little pieces if you can't find where they go it obviously didn't need them:yikes:

always glad to help:laugh: jayel
 
Use the closer hole, it will keep some mamby pamby limp wrist from stealing your bike if you leave the key in it.
 
I disagree, use the outer hole for better leverage & easier clutch lever operation. Less effort to pull = less wear & tear on the parts.
 
and there you have it, outer hole easier pull but less throw lenght tranfered to the clutch push rod, inner hole more throw on the pushrod but stiffer clutch pull
 
So the position is correct? I guess I'll start with the outer, easier pull,more leverage hole first maybe and then if I don't like it, more it to the inner hole. Easy enough to change if I want.

On the kick start oil seal, it should be down some? I see a brass looking lip under the seal, does it need to be driven all the way down onto it. I don't want to booger it up.
 
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there will be a gap to that inner bushing, slightly below flush on the outer case is correct outer edge of seal is wider than inner sealing edge so drive in to case to fit here
 

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I'm not sure I saw that one or not gggGary but I like how much he got for it! I've thought it would be cool to have a blue set of tins to swap out the burgundy ones to give it a different look.
 
Pumps, that tach and speedo are going to work out perfect on your ride!

IS HE THERE YET??? (Ups) lol
 
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