This Clutch! This god damn clutch!!

Mitchell_p

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I just dont know where to go next. I am assuming the bike i have has been sitting for a LONG time. Not being started. Ive put in a pamco and am pretty much finished the build and ready to ride BUT i just cant get the clutch going properly. I can't even Click it into first. It just stalls. Ive had the clutch worm screw out a million times. playing with the handlebar lever 2 million times. Yesterday i took my right side cover off and had a look at the clutch. pulled the lever and tried to pry the plates apart but they were stuck. So i thought sssweet ill just clean em up n measure n test and soak in oil and ill be rollin in no time. Put everything back together and still it won't let me get into 1st gear.

Should i try bump starting it down a hill? and see if that frees something up abit or what.

All ideas welcome.
 
Yes to the ball bearing, unfortunately i can only assume no to the extra plate although i didn't count. foolishly. It seemed normal when i was putting them back on but now i don't know.
 
Did you align the clutch assembly correctly? There's a dot stamped on the inner hub that must show through the little hole in the pressure plate or the clutch won't work right.

PressurePlateAlignment.jpg
 
Yeah i did, Read some of the clutch tech articles before going into it so i knew about the hole lining up. I changed the clutch lever to a bigger brake style lever to see if it would get more pull. Made the clutch seem abit lighter but didn't do the job. Still stalls as you click it into 1st or 2nd. I am really stumped now.
 
What year is your bike? Did it ride before you did the clutch. Does it completely stall when you click it into gear? I don't wanna sound stupid, but does it have a side stand relay?
 
Mitchel...,

Well, might help if we knew what year / model your bike is, especially for the "Ralph Nader" safety crap. If it is an '80 to '83, then try grounding the neutral switch with the engine running in neutral. If the safety stuff is screwed up, then it's possible that the ignition is cut off when you shift out of neutral.
 
Mitchel...,

Well, might help if we knew what year / model your bike is, especially for the "Ralph Nader" safety crap. If it is an '80 to '83, then try grounding the neutral switch with the engine running in neutral. If the safety stuff is screwed up, then it's possible that the ignition is cut off when you shift out of neutral.

+1


Rich
 
Does the engine instantly die when you put it into gear, or does the bike lurch and then die when you click into first?

In your original post, you said you can't click it into first gear. Do you mean that you CAN get it to shift into first, but that it then dies instantly without lurching, and without any change in the engine noise/RPM? If yes, then problem is electrical, and I am willing to bet that your bike is 1980 or newer, and problem is a safety switch as has been suggested, OR your TCI. I had this problem on a 1982, bike would instantly die when put into gear, the problem was my TCI.
 
I had this problem on a 1982, bike would instantly die when put into gear, the problem was my TCI.

I don't recall any connection from the neutral switch to the TCI. Maybe it was the wiring that was messed up?

Give it a hell of a lot of gas when you shift, so that it can't die! Do it on the center stand if you have one. That will point you in the right direction.

If it's mechanical and you're sure it's back together right, then tighten the cable and adjusters until it works right :)
 
littlebill,

Right. That's what I think as well. He can just open the left side cover and pull the side stand relay. No wiring changes needed. I suggested grounding the neutral switch in case there is something else screwed up in the safety wiring.
 
He has a Pamco.
That's why I suggested the side stand relay, which will kill the bike when you shift into gear.

Now it's making more sense... ;)

The side stand relay connects to the TCI, which he doesn't have

The stand switch usually just keeps you from starting with the stand down.
 
On mine, an '82, I removed the side stand relay, then under the left side cover ,where the wires go down to the side stand relay, I had to twist together the blue/yellow and black side stand wires to complete the circuit. Without them connected, or jumped, the bike will lose electric when shiting from neutral to first.
 
Now it's making more sense... ;)

The side stand relay connects to the TCI, which he doesn't have

The stand switch usually just keeps you from starting with the stand down.

If you remove it it will still not allow you to shift into gear unless those wires are connected. I spent an hour flipping out until I realized it. Now, this is on my '82.
 
Well, all this theory assumes that the wiring was not altered from the factory wiring, which would prevent you from starting but would only kill the ignition if he still had the TCI in a '82 to '83, which he doesn't, hence my suggestion to ground the neutral switch so that nothing electrical changes when he shifts into gear.
 
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Mitchell,

You may be adjusting the clutch wrong. Follow the factory method but use these tips from an experienced hand. As previously mentioned, a badly dragging clutch will clash the gears hard when the bike is placed from neutral to first

Loosen the lever at teh handle bar by screwing the cable adjuster together so there is maximum play.

Tighten the center screw on the clutch adjuster (at the engine case) until all the cable slack is taken up at the lever.

Loosen up the center adjuster screw again. Then screw in until it just touches and back out a minimal amount so there is clearance but just barely, about 1/8th turn.

Most people follow the manual like a recipe without seeing what is happening to the mechanical parts. This can lead to a clutch system, like the XS650, not having enough travel to spread the plates, then the clutch drags. Of course, everything needs to be installed properly. Watch for missing balls as mentioned.

Tom
 
I learned this from 5twins and is how I adjust my clutch. It is a Minton Mod. I do the majority of my clutch adjustment with the worm gear. I set the freeplay at the hand lever to about 3/8" or 1/2" using the worm gear screw, then final adjust at the lever.
 
Have you rocked the bike in gear with the clutch pulled to try and free the plates?

I found that if the plates are stuck together and it's not letting you drop into gear without stalling, you can put the bike in 1st gear (engine off), and rock it back and forth vigorously. You'll feel some resistance until the plates free and then the bike should move around, in gear, with the lever pulled. Sometimes it's easier to do this in 3rd or 4th gear. Mess around with it.
 
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