Paulrxs650
XS650 Enthusiast
So, plenty of things arrived this week. Not least a nice set of R1 USD's and also a couple of spoked rims. Tring to find XS650 rims in the UK is nigh on impossible. However, there are a plentiful supply of Yamaha XV535 rims, which use the same hub
As I was making a start on the front end this weekend, I need to pop one of the wheels in the back so it had some support. So, I knocked out the original bearings and popped some in with 20mm ID to accomodate the wider rear axle and slid it into position. Ill be doing the Omars conversion on the back end, so for now this will do.
Onto the front end. I stripped the USD forks out the yokes and put them to one side. The R1 stem is shorter than the Xs's so I had to swap them over. They both are press fit, however the XS's is welded on the underside of the bottom yoke. I ground the weld down and gave it a good whack with a 4lb hammer and a 1" bar and it drifted neatly out
The R1 stem contains a surprise for the unassuming. It has to be knocked out from the top as there is a split ring preventing it from being knocked from the bottom. A little heat on the yokes, and again drifted straight out.
The R1 stem and the XS's only measured 0.10mm difference at their bases. This meant that the XS stem was not a tight fit in the R1 yokes So for 0.10mm I wasnt planning on machining it all out for a sleeve. I decided to heat the XS stem and measure again - perfect. So, measuring the inside of the stem I machined a steel slug 0.10mm oversize. Put that in the freezeer for an hour. Then heated the stem back up and knocked the slug in. The slug expanded, the stem contracted and settled at the exact outside diameter at the base All that was left to do was to drift it into the R1 bottom yoke - perfect!
I drifted out the old ball bearing races and knocked in some nice new tapered head bearings
Dropping the bearings on the stem and offering the yokes up to the headstock showed that the bearing was sat to low on the stem and the yoke caught on the bottom of the head stock. So, using one of the old bearing caps, I machine it down to 1/8" and tapped that down to the base, then knocked the bearing down to meet. Now the yokes can clear the headstock
Fitting the top yoke, requires a bushing to be machined, so I machined one out of some alluminium stock. I tapered it to meet the top nut and give a better finish.
Heres the front end mocked up
As I was on, I also decided to de-tab the yokes and dress up all those ugly casting marks too
As I was making a start on the front end this weekend, I need to pop one of the wheels in the back so it had some support. So, I knocked out the original bearings and popped some in with 20mm ID to accomodate the wider rear axle and slid it into position. Ill be doing the Omars conversion on the back end, so for now this will do.
Onto the front end. I stripped the USD forks out the yokes and put them to one side. The R1 stem is shorter than the Xs's so I had to swap them over. They both are press fit, however the XS's is welded on the underside of the bottom yoke. I ground the weld down and gave it a good whack with a 4lb hammer and a 1" bar and it drifted neatly out
The R1 stem contains a surprise for the unassuming. It has to be knocked out from the top as there is a split ring preventing it from being knocked from the bottom. A little heat on the yokes, and again drifted straight out.
The R1 stem and the XS's only measured 0.10mm difference at their bases. This meant that the XS stem was not a tight fit in the R1 yokes So for 0.10mm I wasnt planning on machining it all out for a sleeve. I decided to heat the XS stem and measure again - perfect. So, measuring the inside of the stem I machined a steel slug 0.10mm oversize. Put that in the freezeer for an hour. Then heated the stem back up and knocked the slug in. The slug expanded, the stem contracted and settled at the exact outside diameter at the base All that was left to do was to drift it into the R1 bottom yoke - perfect!
I drifted out the old ball bearing races and knocked in some nice new tapered head bearings
Dropping the bearings on the stem and offering the yokes up to the headstock showed that the bearing was sat to low on the stem and the yoke caught on the bottom of the head stock. So, using one of the old bearing caps, I machine it down to 1/8" and tapped that down to the base, then knocked the bearing down to meet. Now the yokes can clear the headstock
Fitting the top yoke, requires a bushing to be machined, so I machined one out of some alluminium stock. I tapered it to meet the top nut and give a better finish.
Heres the front end mocked up
As I was on, I also decided to de-tab the yokes and dress up all those ugly casting marks too
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