Valve clearance question

If you have a "sticky" valve it can create play as the rocker goes down the cam ramp and the valve is slow to close.

You need to be careful because a sticky valve will hit the piston and that bends the valve.
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
Do you have a manual, and have you seen this?

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13083

AND, have you reviewed the 'similar threads' below?
Click to expand...


Yes, I've read many. The only thing that was similar was the website I posted.

I am noticing more travel in the right side exhaust valve than the left.
For me to adjust to proper spec, I had to basically spin the tappet all the way in.
So I'm thinking, "Ok, great--now my valve won't open as much."

Should I leave it loose and assume at after 8 years some things just need to be ridden out? I just put it to spec and spun the motor a few times by hand, I just think I'm losing valve travel! For me, the only solution is the valve coming up another 1/16 inch at rest.
It seems as if it's seating fine, I really don't get it.

And the motor runs and idles great, but I checked the exhaust and it seemed like the right was pumping harder than the left.
 
Well, if you have to run the adjuster down below the locking nut just to get proper clearance, you may have a 'ground down' cam and follower, caused by lubrication failure on that side. A good eye could flashlight up in there, look at the cam, and confirm this...
 
For whichever cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke, both its valves will be loose, and that's when/where you adjust those two valves (intake and exhaust). At that same position, the other cylinder will be between exhaust and intake strokes, called overlap, and its valves will be slightly open, about that 1/16"-1/8" you were talking about. These valves do not get adjusted at this position. You must rotate the engine 360° first, so this other side is at TDC compression stroke before you can adjust these other two valves.

If the valves are adjusted at the wrong TDC for that cylinder (overlap stage), then those valves will be very loose at the proper TDC...
 
totally at wits end with this.

I don't know how I could make the bike run really well and idle great, but it's louder than hell! Bike is so fucking loud, this motor rattles.

I'm thinking either I don't know what I'm doing, or something is broken or wrong.

I actually think I may take it to a shop to have the valves done, it's really hard for me to do--but I don't want to break the bike.
 
Yeah, sounds like way too much valve lash (excessive clearance). In post #23 you said:

I am noticing more travel in the right side exhaust valve than the left.
For me to adjust to proper spec, I had to basically spin the tappet all the way in.
So I'm thinking, "Ok, great--now my valve won't open as much."

Backwards thinking. The valve will open MORE when the adjuster is screwed down to proper clearance because the adjuster is doing the pushing on the valve.

Let's try this. Remove both spark plugs. Put a finger in the right side spark plug hole (to seal it off), and rotate the engine (in the proper direction, same as running). When you feel air trying to escape from the spark plug hole, that's the beginning of the compression stroke for that right side.

TDC for that right side will now be found in less than 1/2 engine turn, check for the rotor mark to line-up. At that TDC, you set the 2 valve clearances for ONLY that right side.

Then rotate the engine 360°, a full turn, again align the rotor mark. This is TDC for the left side. Now you can adjust the 2 valve clearances for ONLY the left side.

Does this make sense? If not, we can try to explain it differently...
 
it makes complete sense.

I've done this about 6 times.

I don't know why but the motor is still really freaking loud.

Just did a oil change (sump and secondary filters too) with rotella 15-40 and a quart of VR1 20-50.

Still louder than hell.
 
Sounds like you could benefit from someone looking over your shoulder. If I still lived in the Chi area I'd be happy to swing by for a look. Otherwise might need to seek out a shop, especially one willing to let you get close and oversee what's going on...
 
Have you checked and set the cam chain tension? If it's loose, it can make a terrible racket, just like loose valves.
 
My vote, remove engine, begin top end tear down. Engines are not supposed to sound like that, your wasting your time tuning.
 
should sound like a sewing machine!

sometimes they get louder....thus the ZDDP we should have in our oil.

I may be wasting my time, yes! I really could benefit from someone looking over my shoulder. That would be amazing.

I did my car 100% myself, so it's hard but I actually called a shop today to ask.
He said most people won't touch bikes this old. He says you touch them and they break.

I'm contacting custom and cafe shops in the area, I need someone that isn't a whuss.

For the cam chain, I want 1mm of movement in and out right? Somewhat flush with the adjuster when the motor is turning?
 
Set it while the bike is idling. That's the easiest way. Turn the adjuster in/out to get about 1-2mm of in/out movement on the plunger. Don't be too concerned if it's flush with the end of the adjuster or not. Sometimes they are, sometimes not. If this is the source of the clatter, you'll hear it magically disappear as you tighten the adjuster up. Just don't set it too tight. If the plunger stops moving, it's too tight.

There should be a copper or rubber/metal damper washer on the plunger. Many times they're missing and that can be the source of extra noise.

CamChainTensioners.jpg
 
I don't have the dampener!

Just adjusted the valves to .0025 intake and .005 exhaust.
The left side (side I was concerned about) is magically quieter.
The right side is bangin! Going to do it again after I adjust the cam tensioner and let it cool down. I have a fan right at my side for the motor.

Can I make my own dampener with something like a rubber hose cut very thin (1/16).
 

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