What would cause a stiff clutch hand-lever?

[Dennis]

when you readjusted the worm gear did you first loosen the cable at the hand lever?

 

[freddy3]

Thanks, Dennis. The cable has no tension on it (i.e., it's loose) when I adjust the worm gear.

 

[yamaman]

Of course you are tightening the case bolts up. The cover will push off instead of the clutch pushing in otherwise. Maybe take the other side cover off (you can just lay the bike on its side to avoid draining the oil) and have a look, the fingers on the clutch basket could be flogged out (can be lightly filed to smooth out).

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[yamaman]

probably order that gasket (x2) now in case you break it getting it off. cheers

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[yamaman]

I think you said you have new plates and springs, may as well replace them while your at it.

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[freddy3]

Here's the thing re changing the clutch - I've got new plates and springs as well as a right-hand side cover gasket (and a new bearing, but I forget which one??), but I keep the bike at an open-air public storage and there's alot of riff-raff around. It's kind of a long, complicated story, but this is the only local storage that allows motor vehicles and I need to keep the bike's existence there under the radar so it doesn't get stolen.
My unit's too small to work inside, so I've gotta push the bike out into the parking lot to change the clutch. If the clutch is the problem, I'll just have to bite the bullet and go at it in the parking lot. But I'd really like to be sure I've exhausted any/all other (less invasive/time-consuming) possibilities first.

Does that make any sense?

 

[yamaman]

Well it seems youve eliminated the easy fixes, the only way forward is eiter try another cable or dig deeper. Where do you live, maybe some kind soul on this board lives nearby and can help with some work space!

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[freddy3]

Just wondering if there're any gotchas involved in replacing the clutch?

For example, I have the clutch plate alignment tool (a steel plate with a handle attached), but will I need any other special tools that aren't included in the Yamaha tool kit that's under my seat to remove any of the bolts, springs or covers to get to the clutch plates?

 

[freddy3]

Well it seems youve eliminated the easy fixes, the only way forward is eiter try another cable or dig deeper.

The cable I just replaced works normally until I tighten down the side cover bolts, so I think I can eliminate the cable as being the cause. But I appreciate what you're saying.

Where do you live, maybe some kind soul on this board lives nearby and can help with some work space!

I'm in Maryland, just north of DC, but the bike's not really mobile due to the clutch lever issue.

But, again, I appreciate the thought!

 

[yamaman]

you will probably need a impact driver and a hammer to get the spring screws off, also a fine flat bastard file for the clutch fingers. youll also need a socket (cant recall the size) to remove the basket (only if you want to change the thrust bearing.

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[freddy3]

I've got an (electric) impact driver and I got a 27mm deep socket (which I think is to remove the central clutch hub nut, but it sounds like I'll need another socket to remove the clutch spring screws??) from 650Central along with the clutch friction plates, but what do I need the hammer for and what are the "clutch fingers" and which part of them do I need to file?

 

[yamaman]

Good that you have the impact gun, that will make removing the basket easy. you will probably need a hand impact driver, the type you strike with a hammer to remove the phillips head screws that secure the clutch springs. The fingers that will most likely need a touch up with the file are where the dogs on the clutch plates run. You'll spot it straight away when you remove the old plates. Soak the new plates in oil overnight before you fit them. A nice thin scraper might be handy to get rid of the old gasket. I've probably missed something, but the good folk here will chime in I'm sure. Oh, rags and a manual will be good, and a smart phone. You might run into trouble with the kickstart, so read up on that first. Cheers

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[freddy3]

I've never heard of a hand impact driver for phillips head screws, but I'll be going to Sears tomorrow to pick up some metric impact sockets (to ease removal of the right-hand side cover), so I'll see if they've got that hand impact driver.
The new friction plates are currently bathing in a vat o' 15-40w diesel motor oil (recommended by 650Central) and I've got the service manual (don't have a smart phone tho'). Can you clue me in on the kind of trouble to expect with the kickstart (I wasn't even aware it was involved in clutch removal?!)?
Sorry for all the questions and thanks again!

 

[yamaman]

impact driver should be at sears under $20, should come with at least 2 flat and 2 phillips bits. Kick start should be ok, as long as it doesnt move (im not real sure as i dont run one). Impact sockets for side cover removal? Should just need a allen key. If you want to just lay the bike over (my prefered way) to save draining the oil, a old mattress or a car tyre might be handy. Maybe a camera, so you dont stuff up the assembly order and post some pics of what you find. Cheers

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[freddy3]

So how do I get the (right) side cover off???

I've been through the service manual, as well as the Clymer manual and neither cover removal of the right side cover.

As you can see, I've got all the hex bolts out (good thing I brought the electric impact driver and hex sockets because a couple were frozen-in and I never would've gotten 'em off with the little hex wrench in the Yamaha tool kit!), but the side cover won't budge:

And today was the one day this week with clear skies and comfortable temps...

 

[5twins]

If you're sure you have all the Allen screws out then the gasket is the only thing left holding it on. If it's never been off since '72 then chances are it's stuck on there pretty good. You'll need to remove the tach cable and the brake pedal to pull the cover off. The kick start shaft should remain in the engine - if you hold it in with your thumb as you work the cover off. If you don't, it will pull off with the cover. You don't want that. The return spring will unhook and you'll lose the tension on it. You'll need to re-install following instructions in the shop manual. Like I said, just make sure it doesn't come out with the cover and you can avoid all that.

Get a rubber mallet and start tapping around the cover to break the gasket free. It may take some pretty good raps.

It appears you may have a minor leak on your kick start shaft seal. You may be able to fix that without replacing the seal. Once the cover is off, clean the I.D. of the seal and buff the area of the shaft that the seal works against with a Scotchbrite pad. This will smooth it over and give a fresh surface for the seal to act upon.

 

[yamaman]

No real trick to get it off. Double check you got all the bolts (known as socket head cap screws) out, I've been guilty myself of leaving one in and not being able to get the cover off A few taps with a soft hammer all the way around the case should free it up.

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[freddy3]

If you're sure you have all the Allen screws out then the gasket is the only thing left holding it on. If it's never been off since '72 then chances are it's stuck on there pretty good.

That side cover hasn't been off since I've owned the bike.

You'll need to remove the tach cable and the brake pedal to pull the cover off.

The brake pedal's no problem, but, other than unscrewing the knurled nut at the end of the cable) what's involved in removing the tach cable? There's a bolt just below the cable. Does removing this bolt free the tach cable:

And, looking at the photo of the side cover, I just realized that I'd left the oil filter cover on. Could that be what's holding the side cover on?
I haven't even reached the clutch and I'm bogged-down. Boy, I hope I'm not biting-off more than I can handle in a public parking lot..

The kick start shaft should remain in the engine - if you hold it in with your thumb as you work the cover off. If you don't, it will pull off with the cover. You don't want that. The return spring will unhook and you'll lose the tension on it. You'll need to re-install following instructions in the shop manual. Like I said, just make sure it doesn't come out with the cover and you can avoid all that.

Lovely.

Get a rubber mallet and start tapping around the cover to break the gasket free. It may take some pretty good raps.

Will-do. Thanks again!

 

[freddy3]

No real trick to get it off. Double check you got all the bolts (known as socket head cap screws) out, I've been guilty myself of leaving one in and not being able to get the cover off A few taps with a soft hammer all the way around the case should free it up.

The only bolts left in the side cover are the two in the oil filter cover and the bolt below the tach:

I'll go back with a rubber mallet tomorrow and see if I can nudge the cover off (while holding the kick-start back).

 

[freddy3]

Just wondering... Presuming I can get this done, I've got a new gasket for that side cover. Do I need to use gasket seal on the gasket or will the gasket seal without it?