Wheel Bearing Removal

They are sealed but depending on the year, they will have metal or rubber seals. If they're rubber, you can pop the seal off and add grease. Don't fill them all the way, it will only ooze out once they heat up, fill them about half way. If you replace them, get the 2RS (two rubber seals) type, not the "Z" or "ZZ" kind. Those are metal shields and you can't remove them to add grease.

Oh, and alfred, even though you are a king of asses and the hats they may wear, you have good tastes in hammers. I've used an Estwing in one form or another for over 30 years at work. They are the best.
 
yeah, the money he saved at harbor freight buying that driver set went towards a good hammer!!
 
Freezing the bearing helps, this shrinks the outer race and lets it slip into the hub easier.
 
- this is a little finnicky...you need to move the inner spacer to one side with a long screwdriver so that you can connect with the inner ring of the opposite bearing...carefully tap the bearing out moving around the bearing all the time so that it comes out evenly...once out, remove the spacer and the other side is a lot easier

- dont reuse bearings once youve removed them

- when installing bearings its a goood idea to prewarm the hub, press in from the outer ring only
Thanks for the input i did exactly this and it was out in no time, It makes it easier if you put pressure on end the punch contacting the bearing inner ring with a flathead screwdriver or small wrench.
 
Instead of buying drivers, I just busted apart the original bearings. Kept the outer rings. Hit them with the grinder until they slide in and out of the hub.
 
Instead of buying drivers, I just busted apart the original bearings. Kept the outer rings. Hit them with the grinder until they slide in and out of the hub.

Thats exactly what I do. Have a whole bunch of old bearings around. In fact I just used a perfect one to drive in some fork seals on a RD350
 
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