Will any/all of these drive chains work? Any Recomendations?

The size of your sprockets may play a role here if you've changed them much from stock. I never count the links and cut, I string the new chain on and then I can actually see what it needs to be. Yes, just grind the pin heads off. Doing both sides can make pin removal easier sometimes. I have a nice ratcheting chain breaker but I still grind the pins. It saves stress and wear & tear on the tool.
 
The size of your sprockets may play a role here if you've changed them much from stock. I never count the links and cut, I string the new chain on and then I can actually see what it needs to be. Yes, just grind the pin heads off. Doing both sides can make pin removal easier sometimes. I have a nice ratcheting chain breaker but I still grind the pins. It saves stress and wear & tear on the tool.

Good to know. I havnt changed sprockets, I cant remember the exact numbers, 18-36 or something like that. I checked it several months ago and I remember it was stock, per what i've found here on xs650.com.

I'll probably go ahead and get the 110 and know it'll work. Want to order it today so I can have it by this weekend so I can fix my stupid oil leak from my push rod seal.

Thanks everyone
 
Glad I stumbled across this, after searching around I didnt find much info on the o-ring/non o-ring debate and was about to start a new thread. This settles the argument for me for now at least, I was all worried I made a poor choice getting a non o-ring chain and was about to drop the dough on a new o-ring chain even though my current one is not all that old. I'll continue to use it until it wears out and then maybe do the upgrade but for now I'll just take care of it until that time comes.
 
Glad I stumbled across this, after searching around I didnt find much info on the o-ring/non o-ring debate and was about to start a new thread. This settles the argument for me for now at least, I was all worried I made a poor choice getting a non o-ring chain and was about to drop the dough on a new o-ring chain even though my current one is not all that old. I'll continue to use it until it wears out and then maybe do the upgrade but for now I'll just take care of it until that time comes.


That seems to be the thing to do. If money isnt an issue, you can do better. On a budget, a good brand standard chain well maintained should get you buy with no worries until you can afford a better chain, if you choose to do so. Just drop $50 on a standard chain when needed. I bet it last longer than your brain thinks it will.

I just ordered a 110 link DID standard. $48 + free shipping. Gonna give it a go. I will update with pics and results.

Thanks everyone
 
Got my chain. Concerned about the clip type master link, thought I was getting rivet type. Can I get a rivet master link for the DID standard non oring chain or not. I really dont want to run a clip type. I emailed the manufacturer. If anyone knows or has a part number it would be great. I see the clip type as an emergency backup, not a first choice. If im stuck , then im stuck for now, but I will be upgrading to a oring chain if this is my only option. If thats the case, I may have a chain for sale soon.

sigh

Thanks everyone.
 
I've never had a clip type masterlink fail in hundreds of thousands of miles. Just make sure to have the closed end facing the direction of travel. :thumbsup:
 
You need to take up another hobby like knitting or something, lol, something with no flammable liquids involved.
 
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You need to take up another hobby like knitting or something, lol, something with no flammable liquids involved.

I may do that twins.

Any answers on the rivet type master link? So far it sounds like the clip type work perfect until they fall off while riding and then you go back and find the clip.

Is that right?
 
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Just ordered some Volar o-ring chains today about 60 each to my door, did some web crawling on them a few months ago and it all came back good from guys who used them on their bikes.
I'm rehabbing an 82 that had an o-ring chain that hadn't been lubed in a long time, the o rings were tearing and coming right out of the links. It's on the iron pile now but I'll see if it had a name on it. It wasn't stretched but the PO had it pulled drum tight.
 
o far it sounds like the clip type work perfect until they fall off while riding and then you go back and find the clip.

Is that right?


If that was the case they would probably be illegal...

The clips come on or off in about two seconds, but only if you want them to, if you;ve put them on right. At least for Izumi chains, which is all I can speak on. I use them because they are the right length to start with.

Larger. industrial machinery. chains use an identical kind of clip, but you put it on differently because of its size. I wouldn't use that method with a motorcycle chain because it does bend the clip a little. But it's turning more slowly.
 
xjwmx is right; the trick with clips is technique. I admit to butchering on more than a few till I got it figured out. Like he says newer MC clips are better designed to install and remove without deforming them. With a slip joint pliers they actually install and remove with no issues. No sideways motion, they pop on and off straight forward and back. The slot must always trail the chain's motion, pointing downwards at the back of the rear sprocket. I'm OK with clip type masters, but understand those who will ONLY use a staked one.

Boiler plate; NEVER use chain from the local farm store, that is NOT high speed chain and will rapidly stretch, tear up the sprockets and fail under high speed use. Figured THAT out the hard way back in the 70's.
 
I will give the clip type a try. Maybe I will grow more comfortable with them. Im sure they are perfectly safe when installed correctly.

I probably have an irrational fear of worst case scenarios. But, that fear has kept me from doing stupid things that start with " Hey Ya'll, watch this"! Also know as famous last words.

Thanks everyone.

Got my knitting kit in the mail today :thumbsup:
 
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