Will this battery work?

PickleSlice

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While doing some research about running a smaller battery, I came across this thread - http://www.thechopperunderground.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36508 where this person runs a very small battery successfully.

So, I did some research, and find this little guy - http://www.amazon.com/WKA12-7-5F-Se...pebp=1437344836546&perid=14RKK20EW4R40B8A2943

What's everyone's opinion on these? My build is a brat style build,
-kick only
-full Pamco electronic ignition
-stock charging system, but will be upgrading to a PMA before the build is complete.
-DADDYGCYCLES minimal wire harness (headlight. brakelight, no turns)

Thoughts on this?
 
why upgrade to pma, does your bike not charge? or you just want to eliminate wires.
I run the stock charging system on my 1980 chop, works well. I run the battery that is meant for a 1971 xs1-b in it. those didn't have starters in them. I got mine at motobatbatteries.com.
Its a little spendy, but I tell you what. I left the key on for three days, had a .5 volt read in it, and that's prolly the voltmeter reading the car battery sitting in the corner thru the air.(its humid here). I charged it back up slowly, one hour a day on a 2 amp charge until it read 12.5 volts, and haven't had any problems with it. Im sold on those batteries. But they are brite yellow, so in a chop, either paint it, or put it in a box.
 
The 70-71 starterless XS1's use a small/thin 5.5 AH battery. The battery box on these is a bit thinner than commonly available Sealed Lead Acid batteries, so I stuck a pair of 6v 4.5 AH deer-feeder batteries in mine.

Probably the biggest concern on battery capacity is the 'dead charging' limp-home time.
Some on that in here:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1493
 
With a pamco, u can run further on the battery. I think the pamco will run as low as 6volts
 
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why upgrade to pma, does your bike not charge? or you just want to eliminate wires.
I run the stock charging system on my 1980 chop, works well. I run the battery that is meant for a 1971 xs1-b in it. those didn't have starters in them. I got mine at motobatbatteries.com.
Its a little spendy, but I tell you what. I left the key on for three days, had a .5 volt read in it, and that's prolly the voltmeter reading the car battery sitting in the corner thru the air.(its humid here). I charged it back up slowly, one hour a day on a 2 amp charge until it read 12.5 volts, and haven't had any problems with it. Im sold on those batteries. But they are brite yellow, so in a chop, either paint it, or put it in a box.

Truth be told, the bike is not running yet. I just got it from my dad after he let it sit for a few years in a leaky shed. Already have the PAMCO ignition, waiting on some new BS34's I purchased on here and also waiting on a new VR115 regulator and rectifier that I purchased on ebay. I figured I'd get a Hugh's PMA just for the peace of mind of having it updated, but the stock alternator may be perfectly fine with the updated regulator and rectifier.
The 70-71 starterless XS1's use a small/thin 5.5 AH battery. The battery box on these is a bit thinner than commonly available Sealed Lead Acid batteries, so I stuck a pair of 6v 4.5 AH deer-feeder batteries in mine.

Probably the biggest concern on battery capacity is the 'dead charging' limp-home time.
Some on that in here:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1493

Read that entire thread, thank you for sharing. I'll be riding mine city only, and about 7 miles everyday for work and around the city on the weekends.

With a pamco, u can run further on the battery. I think the pamco will run as low as 6volts

I have full Pamco electronic ignition, the Ultimate kit I think it's called on MikesXS.

I went ahead and purchased this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/391182710448?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. For the price, it wont hurt to at least try it. For getting it running, I'm just going to jump it off my trucks battery and only wire this in after I get the kinks worked out.
 
haha, that is my old thread. I have since ditched the tiny battery. That tiny battery does not like the increased output from the PMA kit, but it did work ok with the stock(weak) charging system. They used to sell for 6 or 7 dollars,and were worth it at the time. Once I switched to a PMA, they would only last a few weeks, I think because they were getting~14.3 V and 200w all of the time and overheating. That thread reminds me of the shit wiring the bike had when I first got it. It was such a relief to rip it all out and start fresh.
 
haha, that is my old thread. I have since ditched the tiny battery. That tiny battery does not like the increased output from the PMA kit, but it did work ok with the stock(weak) charging system. They used to sell for 6 or 7 dollars,and were worth it at the time. Once I switched to a PMA, they would only last a few weeks, I think because they were getting~14.3 V all of the time and overheating. That thread reminds me of the shit wiring the bike had when I first got it. It was such a relief to rip it all out and start fresh.
What did you move to? A standard battery? Lithium ion?
 
Yeah for $7 it is definitely worth a shot. Just dont try to use the electric start or you will toast the leads.
 
Quote; "I purchased on here and also waiting on a new VR115 regulator and rectifier that I purchased on ebay. I figured I'd get a Hugh's PMA just for the peace of mind of having it updated, but the stock alternator may be perfectly fine with the updated regulator and rectifier"

What is this "peace of mind" you will get if you buy a PMA? More and more threads popping up with PMA's "fail to charge" and/or "overheating". Guys pushing or trailering their dead bikes home. If you have already bought a VR-115 and new rectifier, your stock alternator will work very well for you.

Even with using a kick only bike, don't go too small on the battery capacity.
 
Quote; "I purchased on here and also waiting on a new VR115 regulator and rectifier that I purchased on ebay. I figured I'd get a Hugh's PMA just for the peace of mind of having it updated, but the stock alternator may be perfectly fine with the updated regulator and rectifier"

What is this "peace of mind" you will get if you buy a PMA? More and more threads popping up with PMA's "fail to charge" and/or "overheating". Guys pushing or trailering their dead bikes home. If you have already bought a VR-115 and new rectifier, your stock alternator will work very well for you.

Even with using a kick only bike, don't go too small on the battery capacity.
Peace of mind in that the bike hasn't been cared for in years and is not as of yet running. Since I did that post though, I've decided I probably wont go with a PMA if the stock alternator works fine.
 
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