Won't run

If there is varnish built up in the tank, it will break it down. This can clog a fuel filter. Make sure you have a fuel filter! I use little inline ones (one per petcock) for lawn mower applications... available at your local auto parts store.
 
ok so it is ok using as long as you have a fuel filter? its not gonna eat away any thing in the carbs or engine etc. ok maybe ill wait till i get some others feed back on the sea foam. what about running it in your engine oil? it says its good for that too but i dont want to thin the oil out or something to that affect.
 
I wouldn't ever put anything in my oil. If it was me, I'd get it running before anything else. If you clean everything like you're supposed to, there's no reason to try and take the easy way out using a gas additive to do it for you. Clean the carb guts with the cheapest carb cleaner you can get. Clean the tank by shaking it with a piece of chain and dish detergent and hot water inside, or use another method. I do use an external filter, lawn mower type; any that fits will do.
 
The Sea foam won't clean out plugged up carbs. It may help mildly dirty carbs. It can be used every few tank fulls to help keep clean carbs clean.
I wouldn't use it in our 650's engines the clutch might not like it. In an engine that doesn't share the oil wth the primary or tranny it won't hurt.
 
The Sea foam won't clean out plugged up carbs. It may help mildly dirty carbs. It can be used every few tank fulls to help keep clean carbs clean.
I wouldn't use it in our 650's engines the clutch might not like it. In an engine that doesn't share the oil wth the primary or tranny it won't hurt.
agreed. seafoam is a preventive tool. I throw a few shot glases full in once in a while. runs kinda funny during that tank, but after a refill, no problems. 12k on my suzuki 800, and only one carb cleaning(due to rejet) dont put it in your oil. if your oil is suspect, change it. its only three quarts.
 
No I cleaned the carbs just seeing if people run it in there tanks but from what it sounds like a little goes a long way so I won't run it till I suspect my carbs are getting plugged or stuff to that affect thanx guys for now I'll just run straight fuel. Sorry also would a bad bendix gear keep it from starting cause my starter grinds when I try to start it also but that will be the next thing to fix.
 
Well cleaned the carbs and still a no go I just can't understand what's wrong but I'll keep tinkering till someone has something else to suspect
 
Ya said "for now the kicker is busted" and later ya said "the starter is grinding"
Sounds like ya need to get the kick starter fixed because if the starter is grinding, it may be pulling enough amperage that it just plain doesnt have enough electrical power for the ignition to work right.
I think partly, ya just aren't spinnin it fast enough.
Have some energetic friends?....try push starting it with the battery fully charged, key on.....
IF ya are an EXPERIENCED rider...if not have somone who is to ride while y'all push. (ya gotta know how to do this or ya could have disaster on your hands.)

An engine needs properly timed ignition, with fire to the spark plugs, compression, and proper fuel mixture to run basicly. And on a XS, a fully charged battery with the stock charging system. Also, spin it fast enough to start.
If ya got this, it should go. It may not run right, but it should at least try to run.
 
Do you have a repair manual? If not get one. Down load one from biker.net
The book tells how to fix the kick start and the electric starter.
 
Ya I was told by the po that the anchor point where the spring latches on broke off but I won't know for sure till I pull the case off so I'll have to do the drill a hole thing and tap a screw for a new anchor point. I'm thinking that when I crank the starter pressure builds up in the cylinders and the bendix gear is being pushed out so the starter gear dosent grab anymore I think that's how it works? So could it just be a weak spring? I know there is a kit to fix this so I will probably just fix both while I'm in there.
 
the bendix gear is being pushed out so the starter gear dosent grab anymore I think that's how it works?

That is how an automobile starter works not an XS650 starter. There is no Bendix drive here. I think you need a manual and some time reading. Weak battery might just well be your problem, that's why I told you all your starting attempts should be made with the kicker. Fix the kicker first or push start it as was suggested.
 
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Ya the one where the clip has to be bent or I read in another thread that someone remove the spring all together has anyone else done this and had no problems?
 
The spring can be tightened by removing it from the gear set, squeezing it together and have it work. You can get just a spring for like $3 + shipping on ebay. It is a wishbone shaped spring. It won't work without this spring.
Some take the return spring off. It's a coil spring. I stretched mine out a bit so it would return better.
The teeth on the gear set may look half gone, but they have a bevel on the teeth to ease the engagement. As long as the teeth are at least half there it will work fine.
 
Ok got the electric starter fixed no more grinding and fixed the kickstart anchor point don't have a lever yet though so I tried starting it up and a no go again but it's getting there now it will back fire and pop but still not getting it to actually run or idle I crossed the spark plug wires to opposite sides and that seems the best cause when I have the wires from left to left and right to right it seems like the engine is backfiring through where the carbs are held on to the engine any other ideas till I get my kickstart lever?
 
Ok I think I figured out that it's my timing the top points start to open up around when the stator line is around ten o'clock but they should start to open at the f mark right? I've gone over and over with timing the manual the threads I'm just not getting it how do I get the points to separate at the f mark?
 
Yes you use the F mark.

That would indicate your points cam is 180 degrees out of phase. Early on in this thread you said you aligned the marks on governor, disk and aligned the pins on both ends of the governor rod. Maybe not? Doing nothing else just remove the points cam, remove the pin and the replace it 180 degrees on the rod and place the points cam over it. Then check your points timing. Oposite of 10 o'clock is 4 o'clock approximate spark firing point.
 
Well I checked again pins line up points still opening at ten o'clock I tried changing the pin but the hole is too small it won't even fit it the opposite side if I wanted it to
 
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