WOT feels like it comes out of gear,Help!

[sseres]

Your awesome! thanks Leo.

Is it pretty easy to replace the springs? Have you found any good threads with pics on how to do it?

dood... if I can do it
only a matter of draining your oil, removing RHC, take off (hopefully without ruining the screws) the 6 clutch screws, and out pop the springs under the cover. I upgraded to the hex nuts Mikes sells because I actually did strip out all my screws.

 

[XSLeo]

sseres has it right, not a hard thing to do.
To help prevent stripping the screws, get a hand impact tool. This is a tool that is held in your hand and you hit it with a hammer. Comes in 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive, with a set of bits and a bit holder. You can use sockets on the tool too.
The force of hitting the tool forces the bit solidly into the screw as well as turn it.
If you have a drill press or have abuddy with one you can drill out any of those stripped screws to use Allen head bolts.
I think there's a thread on this on here some where.
Leo

 

[TRYGAR]

You think I should I go ahead and replace the plates while im in there?

 

[XSLeo]

If you want new plates then do it. I might just try the new springs first, then if it still slips then do the plates.
Leo

 

[5twins]

By all means, change the springs. Every wet clutched Jap bike I've ever owned needed this. It may take a few hundred miles of running to work that thin car oil out of your clutch plates and get them grabbing good again. I put an eBay clutch in mine and it slipped at first. I think it was run in car oil.

 

[TRYGAR]

Alright I'm having a hard time getting these clutch spring screws out, should I have run my motor for a while to warm it up, and then quickly removed the Right hand side cover?


I took a impact drill to it but couldnt get any of em to break free

 

[burns]

rotell t-6.

ditto for me

 

[5twins]

As mentioned earlier, you need the hand impact, the kind you hit with a hammer. An impact drill isn't the right tool for this.

 

[peanut]

make sure that the impact driver is turning the correct way... easily done.

I would try just using the impact driver as a screwdriver.(Put the switch in the middle ) You need to get your shoulder behind the driver and really push hard at the same time you turn the screw anti-clockwise.
You can probably get both hands on the driver at once to increase torque.



never had to use an impact driver for clutch screws myself . (If you mis-hit you will strip the screwhead for sure ). but then I'm 18 stone and built like the proverbial....

 

[TRYGAR]

Good news, I bought a hand impact screwdriver like you guys suggested, 5 bucks from Harbor Freight, 2 hits on each clutch spring screw and they all popped free no problem.

Now I just gotta change my clutch pushrod oil seal and I'm on the road again.

Any pointers on the clutch pushrod seal instal would be appreciated, I've heard they;re easy to screw up

 

[weekendrider]

Chamfer the hole or you will regret it. A little yamabond along the seals lip will help ease it in. So would vaseline but yamabond will help hold it in, I'm not sure vaseline would.
As long as the seal is out replace the bushing.
The seal will soon wear if the bushing is worn.
Kinda like new chain AND sprockets.
Or new cam chain AND guide.

 

[XSLeo]

Mike's has a very good guide on replacing the seal and the bushing behind it. It's under the FAQ section, scoll down to clutch tips.
He doesn't mention to bevel the hole where the seal sits. You can use most anything to bevel it just enough to remove the sharp edge.
Leo

 

[TRYGAR]

shoot I keep running into the problem of ordering big orders from mikes xs (so I dont get killed on shipping costs) but always seem to forget to order or not know to order a 3 dollar little item like a clutch bushing.

Oh well, I guess I need to do better research before digging into stuff. For now I'll need to pat 13 bucks for a 3 dollar bushing.

 

[ann0yed]

Slipping clutch. The type of motor oil you are using can effect this.
You need an oil designed for wet clutchs.
If that doesn't work you may need new springs.
With the first gear slipping my moneys on the oil.
Springs for the high rpm slip.

Neato, found the reason for my high-rpm slip without even looking for it. Added to my winter list: springs.

-j

 

[5twins]

Get one of the good brand name sets from 650Central, not Mike's cheapie no-name generics (they suck).

 

[TRYGAR]

I cant get my bike to switch gears smoothly, when I put it in first gear it seems to plop in, and then im basically holding the bike back. It basically gets stuck in gear

I changed my clutch springs (vesrah springs), changed my oil for fresh synthetic 20w 50, cam chain adjusted, adjusted my valve lash to spec, and rough rough sync of my carbs.

I've adjusted my clutch cable seriously like 40 times, from extremely loose to extremely tight and everything in the middle. Its seems to act the same no matter how tight or loose my worn gear is.
I'm thinking I tightened my clutch spring screws too tight.

somebody help


please tell me there's an easier way to loosen my screws (if thats the problem) without draining ALL my oil again

 

[5twins]

You can't make the clutch spring screws too tight. They bottom out and that's it. They only exert so much tension on the springs no matter how tight you make them. That being said, there is a torque value for them, something like 6 or 7 ft/lbs. They're only M6 screws after all.

What you may have done is assembled the pressure plate incorrectly. Did you align it, dot on inner hub showing through the little hole in the pressure plate?

 

[TRYGAR]

Of course I didn't take notice of the dot alignment before reassemble. I guess it looks like I'm draining oil, breaking open side case and realigning stuff.

 

[TRYGAR]

Anybody have any pics of the dot alignment so I know what I'm looking for once I get back in there, my manual doesnt seem to show that particular part. Thanks for all the help

 

[peanut]

I cant get my bike to switch gears smoothly, when I put it in first gear it seems to plop in, and then im basically holding the bike back. It basically gets stuck in gear

when you say it is difficult to change gear exactly what happens ?

have you tried to change gear with the engine not running and without using the clutch ?

sit on the bike with the stand up and rock the bike back and forward slowly and change up and down all the gears . What happens ?

Do you get a distinct clunk as it goes into each gear ?

What i'm trying to get at is .....is it definitely a clutch problem ???

or might it be a gearbox problem or a gear selector problem ?