Xs1b front upgrade winter project

[angus67]

so I loosened it all up, fork tops, lower tree pinch bolts, front axle, pinch on the yoke and crown. got everything squared up, and tightend in this sequence - crown, yoke pinch(15 ftlbs) fork tops, with wrench, tight but not too tight, pinch on the loweres(15 lbs) axle.
what im seeing now is that the yellow reflector rings, or brackets, if you will, that the legs slide thru are now loosey- goosey. I thought tightening the fork tops would bring all the washers, headlight ears, reflectors, turn signals up?
Side note--on the left side turn signal, there is no locating ping to keep the signal bracket straight, where as the right side does. its like a little dimple that seats into the notch on the top of the top tree? Could it be preventive in case of forgetting to put kick stand down, and just letting that left side signal rotate? (c'mom, you know you have done it ;p)
am I following the right sequence to gather up the parts?

 

[angus67]

turns out I don't have #16 in that schu. What is it? plastic spacer? I used a phosphorous bronze washer.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

so I loosened it all up, fork tops, lower tree pinch bolts, front axle, pinch on the yoke and crown. got everything squared up, and tightend in this sequence - crown, yoke pinch(15 ftlbs) fork tops, with wrench, tight but not too tight, pinch on the loweres(15 lbs) axle.
what im seeing now is that the yellow reflector rings, or brackets, if you will, that the legs slide thru are now loosey- goosey. I thought tightening the fork tops would bring all the washers, headlight ears, reflectors, turn signals up?

Whenever I've worked on streetbike front steering assemblies, I leave the wheel off. It gets done last.
In the early manual, they even show assembly with the fork bottoms off. That way, you're eliminating all that weight from influencing the top/bottom yokes. Yeah, it's funky. But it's patterned from the lighter dirt/street bikes of the 60's, back when "Made in Japan" was, ...well, you know. Those were 'twiddly' times.

Side note--on the left side turn signal, there is no locating ping to keep the signal bracket straight, where as the right side does. its like a little dimple that seats into the notch on the top of the top tree? Could it be preventive in case of forgetting to put kick stand down, and just letting that left side signal rotate? (c'mom, you know you have done it ;p)
am I following the right sequence to gather up the parts?

Can't tell ya about the 'locating ping'. Too long ago, don't remember, and my current model doesn't use that mounting scheme. Had to cook-up stalk mounts to the headlight ears.

Have I done it? No, no, no. Never dropped either XS.

Dropped (well..., flipped, hi/lo sided) enough others to make up the difference...

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

turns out I don't have #16 in that schu. What is it? plastic spacer? I used a phosphorous bronze washer.

If you're talking about that thick washer under the steering damper knob, it's just a thick rubber washer. Its compression gives a little springy/tension on the damper shaft, so the damper clutch doesn't lock-up...

 

[angus67]

Perhaps my lower bearing isnt seated all the way onto the stem. I dont want to take it all apart again. I use a pipe to seat it, just big enuf to hit the inner ring.

 

[jussumguy]

That's the problem I was having. I didn't even touch my steering head bearings. Once it's all cleaned up and put back together there's a big gap that leaves the headlight rattling around. The previous owner of my bike wrapped several coils of telephone wire around the top of the fork leg to take up the slack. Being that we now live in the wireless era I chose to use a rubber o-rings like this

It's the orange thing just under the top piece

 

[lakeview]

On my '76, i too added in a rubber 0 ring just under the top clamp with a promise to self to check the tightness of the whole front end after the first few miles to dispel the idea that I did not seat the lower bearing enough. I think it is seated correctly as there was no space left under it, but the headlight ears were a bit loose. O ring fixed it.

 

[angus67]

im planning a run a few times up\down the drive. its pretty bumpy and rutted, so after that, it may settle in, then loosen tighten everything up again.. my head light isn't loose because of the bolt to the hanger under the shell that attaches to the lower fork. if that wasn't there, im sure the unit would slide up/down 1/4 inch.

 

[angus67]

So I got everything loose again, and really got the cogged nut tighter than a gnats ass, then loosend it up. Seems the lower bearing is seated, so i drew everything back together. Tightened everything back up. Still floppy reflector holder. Seems my inch lbs torque wrench shit the bed. Best it will definitely is 6 inch lbs when ive got it set to 30. So....knowing a quality wrench will go comfortably to 25 ft/lbs in bare hands, i snugged it all up. These are bolts going into steel. If into aluminum, I'd be looking for a new torque wrench. I didnt go apeshit tightening ng them, im sure it will be fine
The only reason i can find for the floppy reflector brackets after the tapered bearing convervion is the new bearings are slightly wider/thicker/taller than the ball and race original set up. Its all back together, used the tweek test, and nudge test.
.........done. Time for the xl250

 

[angus67]

xl250 rebuild moved to lounge "stupid oil slinger! (Honda)

 

[Primetime]

Angus, if your forks are stock length and will fit a 73 tx650, I'd be interested. Also looking for a seat but not sure of compatibility.

 

[angus67]

Nfs. Good luck with your search

 

[angus67]

Spring is here!! Time to ride!! Any body in the Washington south sound want to meet up?