xs650 won't stop breaking my ankles. KICK-BACK WOES

NOPE that pin certainly was not the issue. I made a pin and placed it in there, tightened everything up and set the pamco in the middle and WHAM, first kick instant kick-back. So i fully retarded the Pamco and then all i got was non-stop kick-back or back-fires. any suggestions? She has brand new coils and plugs and battery and a Pamco.
 
Notice in my pic that the 2 small pins in the advancer rod are both protruding the same way. If your 2 pins are 180 degrees to each other, that may cause a problem.
 

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retiredgentleman said:
Notice in my pic that the 2 small pins in the advancer rod are both protruding the same way. If your 2 pins are 180 degrees to each other, that may cause a problem.
Click to expand...

That exactly. You may have the advance rod flipped 180 degrees out of phase. I did this when I installed mine and it acted very similar to what you are describing. Flipped it and it fired up first kick and haven't had a problem till the other day when I lost power while goin 95MPH racing a girl in a WRX....now my bike doesn't run AND I owe her dinner for losing.....:doh:

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but shouldn't those pins also line up with the timing notch on the end of the cam as well? (been a while since i've been into that area of the engine.)
 
If you kick it all the way through its travel, it disengages at the end of the stroke so that it can't kick back. If you "short kick" it, it's liable to kick back. I get kick back sometimes but only when the weather's cold and the oil is thick making it not want to kick all the way through. Since you think it's going to kick you now, it probably makes for an even more tentative kick.
 
JP50515 said:
That exactly. You may have the advance rod flipped 180 degrees out of phase. I did this when I installed mine and it acted very similar to what you are describing. Flipped it and it fired up first kick and haven't had a problem till the other day when I lost power while goin 95MPH racing a girl in a WRX....now my bike doesn't run AND I owe her dinner for losing.....:doh:

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but shouldn't those pins also line up with the timing notch on the end of the cam as well? (been a while since i've been into that area of the engine.)
Click to expand...

Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if the small pins are 180 degrees out, that it will prevent running. Everytime the crankshaft rotates 360 degrees, the ignition will fire, and the camshaft will have rotated only 180 degrees. However, the Pamco rotor magnets are arranged to fire the coil every 180 degrees, so having the small pins opposite of each other should still be OK.

All I know, is that on my engine, the 2 small pins, the 1 large pin, and the notch on the camshaft gear all aline at 12:00 when the engine is at TDC.
 
Having the pins aligned only matters if you have points. The Pamco fires both cylinders at every TDC, the cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke getting what's called a "waste" spark.
 
Got her running! No clue what the problem was... I Just installed the pins, set the pamco in the middle and kicked her. she still kicked back but i just got pissed and Whacked through and she fired right up! Thanks for all your help guys!

Now that it's running again i have some new problems.

A) the front brake piston is frozen solid
B) I installed a Key switch that clicks to give power to the ignition and then cranks over to fire the starter. (Just like a car) BUT now whenever i just click it the starter fires and then REMAINS on when the engine starts...

wild shit.

here's a flick of the bike you guys helped start

20130510_161057_zps149c4086.jpg


20130510_161343_zps99fd7107.jpg


20130510_161014_zps19236184.jpg
 
imwasteful,

Now, that is a really nice looking bike, or if I was younger I would say, "dat's really bad, dude..." :thumbsup: The only improvement I could think of is to use a shorter front fender and paint it the same as the rear fender.

Now that you've got her running, be sure to check the timing with a timing light.

The PAMCO is actually better at not kicking back because you have to either go forward with the crank 120 degrees after the first magnet turns the coil on, or backward 240 degrees. With points, you can go backward just a few degrees and the points will open and cause a spark, so perhaps you were being too tentative and the engine did go backwards 240 degrees due to compression. As the veteran kickers on site here would tell you, you have to kick like you mean it! :wink2:
 
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On your key switch you have it wired wrong. On the switch there should be a battery terminal an accessories terminal and the start terminal.
Hook battery positive to the battery terminal. Everything else to the accessories terminal, starter to starter terminal. This way when you turn on the key power goes to everything, then when you turn to the start position the starter cranks the engine.
It sounds like you have the starter hooked to the accessories terminal.
Your switch may be marked differently but the terminals work the same.
I would swap out those pleated element air filters for some longer straight foam filters. Those tapered oval filters cause excessive air turbulence through the carb, this turbulence effects the vacuum signal for the slides. Leaves a flat spot just off idle. Hard to tune out. The foam filters don't cause this turbulence and won't have the flat spot to try tuning out.
leo
 
XSLeo - Man, i wish it were that easy! but my ignition switch is wired properly. There are 4 posts; Ignition, Acc, Batt and Starter and it's all wired accordingly. Its just strange because the second you click it forward the starter fires when it shouldn't. It should crank over when you crank the key like a car.

fudge. I think it just fried out or shook apart. damn vibrations.
 
STILL NEED HELP!!

So, i fried the ignition, and melted the coil and some other jazz so i decided on a complete re-wire.

Installed a new HD coil, HHB PMA, ignition and re-wired a ton of stuff.

Ok, runs great but still KICKS BACK LIKE YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE. I mean, everysingle time i kick this bike it wants to blow your foot off. Again today I fully retarded and fully advanced the ignition and it INSTANTLY kicked back both times.

what the fudge dudes?
 
with Pamco, no - just follow instructions - but timing is affected by valve clearances and at the root of it all the cam chain and cam (but that's another story, another thread). Just remember cam chain adjustment, valves, then the timing setting up in that order.

Anlaf
 
Problem Solved!!

my kick-back woes turned out to be my valve clearances! The intake valves were just a little tight but the feeler gauge slid under. Now the exhaust valves... they were WAY too tight.

took the exhaust valves to .006 and WHAM she kicked over without kicking back.

fucking rad.
 

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