You have got to be kidding me!

[Punkskalar]

http://hughshandbuilt.blogspot.com/2011/03/failed-cranks-why-to-properly-build-and.html

Take a look at that, you might have a crank issue....

Having a charging issue you can't solve? Might be directly linked to a crank coming apart as the flywheel has pushed the charging rotor into the alternator housing, grounding out and being a complete pain in the you know what to diagnose. I've had several engines come in with charging issues, only to find out that the entire system has been toasted due to the flywheels separating.

 

[Gordon]

If the rotor was hitting it, yes. When installing a stater, be sure it is fully seated squarly into the cover. Also, make sure that both locating pin's for the cover are there, and installed into the proper locating hole's on the engine. Do your continuity test's on both the rotor and stater, taking care to remove the brush's away from the rotor slip ring's. Check the rotor slip ring to slip ring, then each slip ring to the center nut that hold's the rotor on the end of the crank. Your reading's should be 5.5 ohm's on the ring's,5 - 7 ohm's is the range, and infinity (open) from the ring's to the center. On the stater, measure the resistance between each pair of white leads going to the stater. This should be .4 - 1.0 ohms.The meter should be on the r X 1 scale. Now switch the meter to the highest scale, and check for continuity between each white wire and ground, ( the cover). This should read as an open circut, infinity.If either reading is incorrect, replace the stater. If the rotor rubbed on the stater at all, chance's are it's bad.
BTW, on my '80 G model, I went through 3 rotor's untill I found a bad ground from the engine to the frame. I simply made a ground wire from an old jump box cable, and put one end on the one of the cam tensioner bolt's to where the battery mount's on the frame. The wire is black and is routed up throgh the carb's over to the frame, can't even see it anywhere.
And that was 4 years ago.

 

[cmyoch]

I sure hope that my stator is not bolted on correctly and I can correct it. If not and I have a crank issue, I'm done with motorcycles for quite some time. I don't have the funds for an overhaul!

 

[Gordon]

Just pull the crank in and out with the rotor, there should be a very small amount of play. If you got more than let's say, an 1/8 on an inch, you got a crank problem. Do not give up yet, still alot of time for riding left. We will get you going, for a minimal amount of money. BTW, make absolutly sure that all the wiring is in good shape, because even the connections from the factory can and do get corroded, where they clamp on to the connector's themselves. I soldered all mine to be sure they were good. Most of these bike's just need alot of 'cleaning' up of thing's like that because they have been sitting around for a long time. When these were popular, there were alot of problem's electrically with them, so people got frustrated with them and let them rot. Once you get the bike straightened out, it will be worth all this trouble. Good luck, and enjoy the work, 'cause it is a labor of love! Just think, when all is said and done, you will be writing to someone of your knowledge and passing it on.

 

[Punkskalar]

Just pull the crank in and out with the rotor, there should be a very small amount of play. If you got more than let's say, an 1/8 on an inch, you got a crank problem.

That method does not work on these when the cranks are seperated and crashing into the cases. There will be NO play at all, as the flywheel will be in contact with the cases...

1 method to see, is look at the seal on that end of the crank, if you see a worn spot sticking out past the seal, then you likely have a crank that has seperated. You will also be finding alloy shavings in the oil and sump if that has happened....

I have a few rotors laying around ifn' ya need one....

 

[cmyoch]

Gordon and Punk,
I'll pull the case cover and stator this evening and do the checks that both of you suggested. I sure hope that this will be an easy fix because I'm starting to get discouraged. When my charging system went dead, which I now think was the regulator from the get go, I didn't have any issues with my rotor rubbing the stator. I first tried a stator swap and noticed it was tight. I then went ahead and swapped rotors while I was at it thinking that the issue was using 2 used parts, I needed to make sure I used the 2 mates because they would have been worn together.

That being said, I'm wondering if I had my stator bolted down improperly. I hope so. I'm missing some prime riding weather!

 

[cmyoch]

I pulled the stator and checked the crank for any play. There is a minimal amount. I'd say 1/16th or so. Turns out my stator was bolted down crooked. I straightened it out and tested it. Still not charging but i noticed that I scarred the inside of the stator pretty good so I assume it is shot. I still have my original stator that I can reinstall.

When I started it up to test, my headlight did come on which led me to believe that I was putting out some sort of charge to kick on the SR. The second time i started it, it didn't turn on but my stator may have been shorted by then. I probed the 2 brushes while running and the best I got was 11.1v with no change from higher rpms. My rotor tests at 5.4 ohms resistance so I assume I'm still good there?

I'll swap my stator back and pray that this solves the problem!

 

[Gordon]

Ok, thats good new's. Your rotor is well within spec, and you said you made a rectifier/regulator using the instruction's given here. I would double check that, just to be sure nothing got fried from the shorting of the stator.

 

[cmyoch]

Sweet sweet success! I am now successfully charging. After setting my timing correctly and taking her for a test ride tonight, it ran very well. I noticed a little popping on decel which is from the boots from my air box. I need to tighten them up and get a volt meter wired so I can monitor everything.

I couldn't have done any of this without your help. Thank you guys so much!

Craig

 

[Gordon]

So, was it the stater that gave you all the trouble? If so, that is not a usual problem, but anyhow, the main thing is your riding!

 

[cmyoch]

My stator must not have been the original problem because I had to put it back on when I messed up the new stator that I bought. It ended up being the regulator. Good news is though that my charging system has been completely gone through. I even wired in a voltmeter to monitor the system.

The bike runs good except for I'm popping on decelleration and my idle is crappy. I sprayed some ether around the carbs and I noticed I must have an air leak at the boots connecting to the air boxes, not the manifolds. I've repositioned the rubbers and tightened the heck out of the clamps but still not improvement. I'm sure the rubber is worn out. I cannot find a source for replacing these. Do you know of a fix?

 

[Gordon]

Thats good new's. Did you just fidure out what was wrong with the VR and rectifier's you put in? Or did you just get a stock reg/rectifier assy. and swap it out?
When checking for an intake( vacuum ) leak, I use carb cleaner, with the straw attached, to help pinpoint the exact area of the leak. It is very common on these carbs to develope a leak at the throttle shaft 'o' ring's. And using ether is, well, hard to pin-point because of it's so volitile. That is the shaft that goe's through the carbs, with the butterfly attached to it. They leak around where the shaft passes through the body of the carb. Have you removed the brass plug's from the top front of the carbs yet? So you can gain access to the mixture screws. Try turning them out half a turn to see if that help's with the popping on de-cell. I am glad your going. The voltmeter is a good tool to have, then you'll know if a problem is starting.

 

[cmyoch]

I discovered the regulator was defective through the process of elimination. The rectifier was a $7 fix so I figured what the heck.

I will do the carb cleaner with the straw trick to pinpoint the issue. Do you know where to get replacement boots? I wonder if a little silicone could help?

 

[azman857]

www.jbmindustries.com for the best boots

 

[cmyoch]

I got an email response back from jbm industries this morning. They do not carry the boot that connects the carb to the air box. I am going to probably take everything apart and make sure I fit it back to a "T". I may put a little silicone around the boots to help make an air seal.

 

[bdholsin]

cmyoch - I have a pair of air boxes from my '83 Heritage Special that I'd be willing to part with for basically the cost of shipping. The boots on the boxes look pretty good (for being almost 30 years old). However, I do NOT have the crossover piece that goes between the two boxes. That was given to another member here on the forum who needed it. If you're interested PM me and we can work something out. I can get you some pics if you are interested.

 

[cmyoch]

Let me pull the air boxes tonight and thouroughly inspect the rubber boots and reassemble. If it turns out that they are bad, I'll PM you. Thank you very much for the offer.

 

[bdholsin]

Just trying to help a brother out. After all the aggravation I've watched you endure in this thread I thought you could use a break. Good luck.

 

[cmyoch]

Thanks a bunch, that means a lot. I told my wife the other day when I was gearing up for a test ride that if I broke down, I was going to push it into the ditch and hitch a ride back. I wasn't about to endure another problem. At least with exhaust popping I know I can pinpoint the issue.

 

[cmyoch]

The right air box boot was bent inwards from twisting the air box on. I got it to seal but the boot is not in the best of shape. It is torn in one spot. She started on the second kick. I adjusted the carbs and got it idling fine but had to leave for my sons the tee ball game. Hopefully I will have some daylight later for a test ride.