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These wires tested ok, and the rubber grommet wire protectors in the headlight bucket are old but intact. @mrtwowheel Good point, this initially confused me going through and testing. The cause of the remaining problems (flashers not flashing, idle speed drop when stop light is illuminated)...

Well I'm a little embarrassed it took me so long to find, but the oil pressure warning and brake lining lights were reversed at the dash. :doh: I still can't explain the brake light interfering with the flashers. But I'm going to charge up the battery and see if it's still an issue while running...

Yep I believe that to be correct. I do have a little resistance from the WB at diode to the LW at starter switch in the bars. 0.4 ohms

No LR to starter solenoid, little more color inconsistency there. It's LW all the way from the bar starter switch.

The wiring diagram is for a 1975 XS500B which matches the model of the bike. Wow the colored guide is fantastic, thanks for that. I picked at it a little more after work today and uncovered a splice hiding under some electrical (DG at harness). But according to the diagram it was done correctly...

Try reloading the page. I noticed my images were crooked so I fixed them and reuploaded.

I don't have a headlamp diagram equivalent to the one you do. It's all laid out on the same diagram, split down the middle with a divider. There is a section on the flasher circuit. I'm not sure what is meant by "pilot light".

I have been working off of the diagram in my XS500 manual and I am becoming pretty familiar with it. Today I ran some continuity tests on handlebar switches and flasher/dash lighting and didn't find any obvious culprits. I do have some bad speedo/tach bulbs that I need to find a replacement...

Unfortunately righting the miswired flasher ground didn't resolve anything other than its corresponding bulb now lights up solid when that side is toggled. The other problems persist. The one where applying the brake causes solid flashers to flash once cracks me up a little at least. The...

I read through your continuity testing write up, good stuff! My capabilities are limited but I'm starting to get a feel for it. I did make some progress today, I found that the right front flasher positive and ground wires were both connected to ground. I righted that and now get all flashers to...

Total replacement may be the right move, it would be my first time taking that on. I plan to spend some more time troubleshooting before I commit to replacement. So far looking at the headlamp bowl and repair manual diagram I see some wire color inconsistencies and a good amount of electrical...

I was in the process of jetting a set of Mikunu vm32s when I noticed a drop in idle speed each time I slowed to a stop. Initially I suspected a fuel related issue, but found it happens each time the front or rear brake is applied. I started to poke around and noticed more strange electrical...

Front brake lever is firm, new rear brake shoes are installed and I put some new tires on too. As advised, patience went a long way and I was eventually able to bleed it. The sweet spot seems to be squeezing the lever just past the point of making contact with the master cylinder piston...

Sorry to be dense, but reading though this thread it's not clear to me which is the correct torque value for the smaller allen key bridge bolts. According to this ^ post I was torquing within the correct range, as 9.5 m kg = 825 in lb = 69 ft lb. If that's the case, I'm hopeful the threads in...

Wow strange! Here's a photo of the section in my manual. Hahaha.

When they began rounding I thought maybe I confused the outer caliper bolts with the bridge bolts, but I'm fairly certain the bridge bolts are the smaller allen headed ones that drive from the center of the bike out. The 17mm bolts are fine, and required about half the torque which I also found...

Thanks Jim, next chance I get I will take a shot at adapting this method for my model and see how it goes.

Good stuff & what a sharp looking caliper! I do wonder, is the caliper/line prefill done purely to save time, or is it a required step of the bleeding process? With how little fluid it takes to fill the brake system I'm surprised it'd take so long to bleed this thing normally. Could be I am...

The caliper is halfway rebuilt. I changed the seals on the outer caliper half, but the inner piston didn't budge with compressed air. My hope was pressurizing the line with fluid would get the stuck piston to move, but no dice there. Good tip on prefill, hadn't thought to try that.

I installed new hard lines, new banjo bolts and crush washers, and replaced the rubber hosing with braided steel. The master cylinder is rebuilt and producing pressure when I use my thumb to plug the m/c out at benchtest. However I cannot seem to pressurize the line. I have no resistance...