Wobble/Handling issues with 1981 XS650?

Jaymerica

XS650 Newbie
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Hey guys,
I’m new here and have a few questions. I'm currently in the process of getting my motorcycle licence and have been looking at older Japanese bikes for my first motorcycle. There is a 1981 Yamaha XS Special II for sale here and I’m strongly considering it. I’ve attached a picture and below is some info:

00707_8EYZ0t4sl0k_600x450.jpg

7200 original miles on the odometer.
Collector plates were on it last year
One owner, all new, original condition parts
Lots of new parts and work done in the spring:
-New tires
-New spark plugs and NGK wires
-Carbs cleaned and synced
-New chain an sprockets
-New gas tank
-New front brake caliper and rotor and pads
-New battery
-Fresh oil change, and all filters and gaskets and 4L of oil included for next time
The price is $4000, but I wouldn’t pay any more than $3000 for it.

I don’t have tons of mechanical knowledge and won’t be able to do too much work on it, so my questions are:
a) Am I getting in over my head in regards to maintenance for this old bike, it seems to have been taken good care of.
b) Are there the same wobbling and handling issues with the Special 2’s as with some of the previous years?

Any direction you could provide would be great as I don’t have a lot of spare cash, but really love the look of the classic motorcycles. Would this be a good bike for me? (I’m 5’10, 180lbs)
Thanks!
 
The handling issues were sorted with the new sturdier frames in the mid 70's I believe.Any wobble after that is worn swing arm bushings, and mis adjusted head stock, or poor maintenance of the head bearings. maybe bent rims. These bikes will move 180lbs without issue. take the info with you and check. take a compression gauge with you.
Ask were he got the new tank. the only source around for new tanks makes a repop, and it isn't very good. if he says on the web, ask 'mikexs?'. if he stammers, you have your answer. But don't say those tanks are junk, he might slam the door on you. Just say 'huh' and go about looking it over. To me, it seems the engine has been apart, as indicated by the black cylinders. We would like to find a good source for new tanks.
If all seems legit, offer 3k. These are easy bikes to maintain, and rebuild is ridiculously easy with a kit and a trip to the friendly machine shop.
Tons of info here. we will help you thru it.
 
Jay, you've written that you won't be able to do much of your own work. IMO old bikes are for beginners only if said beginner has the time and inclination to learn how to wrench as well as how to ride. Old bikes take a lot more TLC than modern machines, and if you can even find a shop that will turn your wrenches for you, you'll have a bottomless money pit on your hands at the end of the day.

For $3K you can buy a decent Suzuki SV650, Kawasaki EX650, or recent 500 class machine that probably won't ask you for more than routine maintenance, and won't send you scuffling around desperately seeking a shop that will work on it.
 
Be aware that even in good shape, this is an old fashioned motor and requires more maintenance than a newer bike. You will need to be adjusting valves, cam chain, changing oil quite often (like every 1000 miles), and cleaning the 2 oil filters at that time. If you're up for all this then fine. The 650 is a great old bike for learning some motorcycle mechanical skills on. It's a relatively simple, straight forward design and easy to work on. If you ignore the things I've mentioned, the bike will let you down, eventually grinding to a halt. A local guy I've been helping the last few years is like that. The last couple times he had me work on his bike, he had to bring it over to me in a truck. He literally drove it until it fucking died, lol. Don't be that guy.
 
Hey guys,
Thanks for the feedback. I'm quite aware the older bikes require some TLC and I am not completely mechanically naive, and do have some tools already. Although there aren't any motors involved, I do rebuild bicycles. I have the interest in working on motorcycles, just no current skills. So I think I'm up for the challenge. I guess I’m just curious if I’m going to be spending more time working than riding.
One of my friends knows a mechanic that works on older Japanese bikes, so I suppose I could also draw on him for some more advanced maintenance.
I guess my biggest question would just be safety. When I read about the wobbling and strange handling around corners I got a little worried. I certainly don’t want to have that in the back of my mind.
And as for the cheap newer street bikes (SV650, EX650) I’m not really a huge fan to be honest. I don’t want that style of bike.
I used to own an old 1991 BMW 318is, so I know how old motors can be a pain… But I loved it. I now own a 2013 Honda Fit and miss the character classic motorsports can bring.
 
you can find early 2000's bikes all day long for under 3k. My 2003 Suzuki marauder, performance clutch, stage three carbs, rejetted with debaffled pipes, custom one of a kind rear fiberglass fender, apes, and upgraded brakes, is only around 1500 bluebook. But I could get 3 for it if some one knew what the hell it was, and what was done to it. Its as solid as a rock, and is my long distance, worry-free bike, but like 5t says, has no character. Its more of a cruiser, and I don't think your into that, I was just using it as a price example.
 
If you think your up to it the XS650 can be a great bike to own. As others say TLC is important. These old bikes need a lot.
That bike being a runner is a good start. It won't need much to get it running.
The early models, up to 73 had a not so much weaker, they hold up fine, In 74 they added a lot of bracing by the upper rear shock mounts, the neck area.
The early frames under most street uses it wasn't that big a deal, under racing conditions the weaknesses become more of a problem.
It looks to have one of the first upgrades the later Specials need, lower wider bars, much more comfortable than the high bars.
One of the first things you should get is a repair manual. There are places to get free downloads. I like real books, there's something that just feels right to have a book in your hand. I like the factory books. They can be found on Ebay. Not all the time but with some waiting you can find them.
The Clymer book is ok, the Haynes book is ok. The both have mistakes, mostly in translation.
On the factory books you want one of the earlier big books. They explain everything better, the later books are just supplements to the big books. They have info detailing the differences in the later models.
The purchase is up to you. If you buy, you can get plenty of help on here to keep it running well.
Leo
 
1 Owner and collector plates is a good start, means the guy most likely looked after it.

Pay what you think it is worth and i don't think there would be to many as good as that one. The price is area selective, The States prices vary depending on availability and has no bearing on Canadian prices. I know the US guys could buy 3 for what we would pay for 1 over here, but even the prices there are going up for good ones these days.

If your up for the challenge then go for it. This site is the best site for help and the members here will guide you through any problems that arise.

The bike has a factory electronic ignition and as long as it is running then the bike will be an easy starter with little maintenance except for regular oil changes and cam and drive chain adjustments. Being a low mileage bike, Canadian would be Kilometers and not Miles, then the Factory ignition, (TCI), should give you many problem free klm's.

As others have said get a manual............. and the frame is no problem at all. Road tests will say this and that but realistically these bikes can out perform a lot of others of the same era, in its element, without undue danger, rider error would be the cause of 99.9% of crashes and the rest "could" be attributed to the frame. Of course the riders aren't going to admit to their mistakes, so out comes the old "XS650 frames are shit".

Tech menu on here has wealth of info, can be a bit to wade through some of the threads, but usually most of the needed info is on the first couple of pages.

I say go for it and we are here to help
 
The front fenders on the first 2 year's models provided little in the way of fork bracing.

Also, the early models used plastic bushings and a multi-part sleeve in the swingarm pivot. This funky arrangement contributed to the frame "hinge" feeling reported in many articles of the time. Later models went to the more-solid 1-piece sleeve and better bushings.

But, once a 'poor handling' reputation has been established, it's hard to live it down.

full
 
Yes... it has handling issues.
No... you shouldn't need to work on it too much.
But it does take effort to sort the handling.
Yes, a worthy machine.

I have a 1981 SH. Rode it for years, commuting to work, touring 2 up on the weekends, exploring dirt roads. Rugged, reliable, good MPG and gutsy.

I did the prescribed things for handling... bronze swingarm bushings, good tires, suspension tweaks, fork braced. Each step helped noticably but it still fell short when pushed. The frame and swingarm simply load up when pushed and go into a bend and spring back oscillation... how bad? Tolerable if you ride mellow, safe when riding moderately spirited, but hard to pick a line and stay on it at speed. I saw a you tube video once - someone recorded four xs650s from the back of a pick up, the bikes were following. All 4 had a noticable weave.

I am finishing a long term project that included replacing the swingarm with a sturdier one and welding braces on the frame. It will be exciting to see if the handling is sorted!

How much labor is it to keep running? A few hours upkeep per 1000 miles... use a good o ring chain... it helps. Also expect to devote a weekend or two once in awhile if you undertake repairs or upgrades.
 
Well, that's great information guys. I really appreciate it. If it's still available when I get my license, then I'll check it out and hopefully take it for a spin. Although, I'm not entirely sure what I would be looking for. Any tips in that department?

From some replies, I started to assume like I'd be working on it 24/7. I can handle proper maintenance schedules, even if it is only after 1600km. From what I’ve been reading, it is always described as a “reliable” bike.

Growl, did your 1981 have handling issues as well? Or was it only the earlier models as some are saying?
 
I wouldn't be too concerned about handling issues. The later models like you're looking at were pretty well sorted. The bike isn't going to go into a full lock to lock wobble and spit you off or anything. Can the handling be improved? Sure. The one you're considering has what look to be $79 cheapo replacement rear shocks. Those might not work very well. As mentioned, a fork brace is a nice addition and really helps. The swingarm swap is very nice but doesn't need to be done. The stock swingarm works just fine as long as the bushings are good.

I've had mine for nearly 10 years. It's been very reliable and has never left me stranded anywhere. I've done most of the upgrades and little fixes over the years. They didn't have to all be done first thing. Your bike will be the same. You can "ride and wrench" as we say, adding the little fixes and improvements gradually over the next few seasons.
 
Hi Jay,
I'm old-fashioned enough to reckon that a rider's first bike should be a 125cc or 250cc dual purpose machine.
It makes me shudder to see 1000cc sport bikes advertised as "Good starter bike"
Don't sweat the alleged complexity, anyone who can fix a 21-speed derailleur will have no problem working on a SOHC vertical twin.
If it's as good as it says and I didn't already have one, I'd buy it although $4K is kinda steep. Yeah, $3K tops. Start dickering at $2K.
And that's our debased Canadian dollars, too (about US$1.6K which ain't out of line with what I see posted here.)
 
Yes, that would be about a $1500 bike in my area, maybe $1800. Now whether they'd get that, who knows. They might have to settle for about 12.
 
Hi Jay,
I'm old-fashioned enough to reckon that a rider's first bike should be a 125cc or 250cc dual purpose machine.
It makes me shudder to see 1000cc sport bikes advertised as "Good starter bike"
Don't sweat the alleged complexity, anyone who can fix a 21-speed derailleur will have no problem working on a SOHC vertical twin.
If it's as good as it says and I didn't already have one, I'd buy it although $4K is kinda steep. Yeah, $3K tops. Start dickering at $2K.
And that's our debased Canadian dollars, too (about US$1.6K which ain't out of line with what I see posted here.)

Thanks for the advice fredintoon. I completely agree. I'm actually taking lessons and they provide 250cc Honda Rebels and CRF 250s for learning all the basics, taking the skills and road tests, so that'll at least get some experience at a lower displacement under my belt.
 
Read these 2 links. will help you understand what is required when looking at an older bike and the 2nd link is a troubleshooting guide with some good hints on inspecting a bike.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390

On pricing and what you will pay compared to what it is worth. Some of us oldies, Me included, have been around the Xs650 for a while and seen them go from bikes that nobody wanted and $100 would buy a good runner, 12 years ago, to the prices today where a good runner is considered a $1500 to $2500 bike and more, depending where in the States the bikes are.

Your In Canada and using the Canadian $ as a comparison the the US $ and relating it tp the value of a bike in the 2 different places is not the way to go.

Maybe $4000 is over the top where you are but what are your options and what is the going rate in Your area. Do some research and using the first link i gave you, when you go for an inspection of the bike do some of the recommended things. Compression test is important, If the owner has a new battery that to me is a +. If nothing else then what is learn t holds you in good steed for any future propositions.
 
Everything posted so far (through #16 at the time I write this) is good advice. These bikes do require more hands-on than modern ones, but nothing that you can't handle, judging by your responses so far to others' comments - it is not onerous. By posting on this forum, you are tapping into an incredible body of knowledge and experience that are shared generously, through the excellent tech section, prior threads accessible through the search function, and up-to-the-minute responses from a lot of folks who collectively have seen and done about everything you can imagine with and to these old warhorses. Personally, I believe you are safer in the long run riding a bike that you have to tend to regularly - you come to know how every piece of it affects safety and reliability. I'm not so sure that those who own/ride only modern bikes that need nothing more than another tank of gas and an occasional oil change have much chance to appreciate that.
 
Well put. I appreciate my old bikes more because I've been pretty much completely through them, laying hands and wrenches on practically every nut and bolt on the machine.
 
That's fantastic guys. I can't thank you enough. Especially having patience as I'm sure these questions get asked on the regular. 650skull, those pages are great! It will help if I end up going to take a look at this bike. Like I said before, I really don't know the questions to ask or what to look out for, so that's helpful.
When I had my old BMW, I belonged to a bimmerclassics forum, and I really miss that sense of community, so I appreciate all this info. Definitely makes me a bit more comfortable moving forward being part of a forum with such knowledge.
Now I’m just curious… Any users in the Lower Mainland of B.C. Canada?
 
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