Very slick using pics of the parts not just drawings.
Leo
Leo
To hook in a neutrallight on that diagram MiniDanzig, run a wire from after the key switch to an indicator bulb, from the bulb to the neutral switch on the transmission.
When the engine is running power is sent to the bulb, from the bulb to the neutral switch, when in neutral the switch grounds and the light lights up.
It won't light up without the engine running.
Leo
On this Diagram, if the bike is not running there is no power to the ignition.
On turn signals run w ire from after the key switch to a turn signal flasher, I would use a brown wire. From the flasher to the turn signal switch, I would use brow/white.
If using stock switches, run this brown/white to the brown/white of the turnsignal switch. After the sdwitch the choclate wire goes to the left side signal lights, the dark green to the right side signal lights. If you want indicater lights then run a wire from the left and right sides up to bulbs in the dash and then to ground.
If you have a gauge that has just one indcater light then you will need to add diodes in from the left and right sides then hook the diodes together then to the indicater.
If you search turn signal you will find a thread with this diode set up.
Leo
hey Leo thanks for the quick help on that one!
Pete, good call i don't know how i forgot to put the kill in there. You start staring at these things long enough they all sort of blend together. here is an updated version with the kill switch, fuses, and neutral indicator. can you recall why pamcopete called for a 7.5 amp fuse? would 10 amp be the same.
it would be awesome if you guys could tell me if you see any problems, oversights, or overkill in this updated version...
Thanks guys!
Just noticed your fuses for the lighting. I would delete the one between the brake switch and the light. Move the one to the head light to the verticle yellow. That way it protects all the lighting.
Where you have the brake light fuse only protects the light itself, no protection for a failed brake switch.
Leo
That's the fuse block I used. Leave your fuse between the Cap and key where it is.
The wire coming from the key hooks to the bolt on the side of that fuse block.
It feeds one side of all 6 fuses. The spade lugs along the sides are power taps for each fuse.
Just hook the yellow wire to one fuse.
The red wire to the engine stop switch to one fuse.
The green wire for the neutral light to one fuse.
Your turns of a fuse.
Your horn off a fuse.
Anything you can think of, just hook to a fuse and go. If you run out of fuses, some thing can be hooked together. Like the turns and horn can be on one. The neutral can go anywhere.
About the only thing that should be on it's own fuse is the ignition.
Leo
That's the fuse block I used. Leave your fuse between the Cap and key where it is.
The wire coming from the key hooks to the bolt on the side of that fuse block.
It feeds one side of all 6 fuses. The spade lugs along the sides are power taps for each fuse.
Just hook the yellow wire to one fuse.
The red wire to the engine stop switch to one fuse.
The green wire for the neutral light to one fuse.
Your turns of a fuse.
Your horn off a fuse.
Anything you can think of, just hook to a fuse and go. If you run out of fuses, some thing can be hooked together. Like the turns and horn can be on one. The neutral can go anywhere.
About the only thing that should be on it's own fuse is the ignition.
Leo
WOW thats pretty good and makes alot more sense to me as well. anyway you could put one together for a rephase using two coils.