Tried grounding the rec/reg to the frame ended up blowing a fuse. I think I need help with my connections under the headlight. There is no power going to my brushes. This leads me to believe there is something connected wrong. What do you think?
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Battery dies extremely quick.
- Thread starter BCoop
- Start date
Did the fuse blow immediately as soon as you turned on the key, or did it blow after some time period................i.e. 1 minute or 2 minutes?
If it blows immediately, then the rec/reg is probably failed. If there was a delay then maybe you have short circuits in the wiring somewhere on the bike.
Since the rec/reg came with the bike, there is no way to know if maybe the PO connected it backwards, or abused it some other way, at some time, and now its toast.
Options..................buy an automotive nos VR-115 regulator and build your own rectifier...............cheap way to go. Lots of threads on how to do that.
Is there a way to test the combo reg/rec? I would say it blew after a few minutes. I would say that both scenerios you gave are true here. The previous owner had it connected wrong and I think the wiring is some what of a mess.
What side of the headlight does the brown wire for the regulator enter? this would give me an idea of what to look for on that end.
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What side of the headlight does the brown wire for the regulator enter? this would give me an idea of what to look for on that end.
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Don't quite know what it means but today I tested the reg side with a vom and there is power coming through the brown wire that connects to blue from the rec/reg with the switch on.
There is no power reaching my stator though. When I turn the key the green and black connections coming from the stator I get no voltage. Starting to loose my mind. Does anyone know of someone in the Orlando area that could help me out face to face?
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There is no power reaching my stator though. When I turn the key the green and black connections coming from the stator I get no voltage. Starting to loose my mind. Does anyone know of someone in the Orlando area that could help me out face to face?
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The fact that you have voltage on the brown/blue wires but don't have voltage at the green and black (alternator brushes), tells me that your rec/reg is defective.
If you have a good stator and a good rotor, its not difficult to use a separate rectifier and a separate regulator such as the VR-115. If you want to go that way, we can help you do that.
Otherwise, perhaps you can find someone local to you to give you assistance.
You can use your original regulator with the homemade rectifier if you like. I'm running like that at the moment. They're separate units so can be mixed and matched. Eventually, I would suggest getting the new VR-115 regulator to go along with the new rectifier. I plan to install mine soon. The VR-115 can be found cheap (about $20, sometimes even less) on Amazon or eBay .....
http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Standard-VR115-Voltage-Regulator-/76993165
Here's a thread that covers fabbing, mounting, and wiring the new components .....
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21485
http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Standard-VR115-Voltage-Regulator-/76993165
Here's a thread that covers fabbing, mounting, and wiring the new components .....
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21485
Sounds like a plan. I reconnected the original regulator and only connected the rectifier side of the rec/reg. Then I put the battery on the charger for a few minutes to get it to 12.5 volts. When I started the bike it charged. When giving it throttle i saw it climb to 14.5 and this was great. I put the headlight back in and then started the bike. I noticed it hissed at me when giving throttle on my right carb. So this obviously means I need to clean the carb. When I go to test the battery voltage its sitting at 9.8 volts.
So does this appear to be a leaky diod? would it drag down my battery voltage even when the bike is off?
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So does this appear to be a leaky diod? would it drag down my battery voltage even when the bike is off?
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I unplugged the a.c generator and the voltage began to rise on the battery. When I pulled the yellow it also began to raise.
My best guess is that with the lower than average voltage being passed to the brushes and the fact that the battery raises in voltage when the rectifier is disconnected that the rectifier is crap. What do you guys think?
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My best guess is that with the lower than average voltage being passed to the brushes and the fact that the battery raises in voltage when the rectifier is disconnected that the rectifier is crap. What do you guys think?
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Just charging a discharged battery for a few minutes is a waste of time. As I mentioned yesterday, you need to charge the battery at 1.5 to 2 amps for about 10 hours. Only after you have a fully charged battery, can you evaluate how the charging system is doing its job.
You already know the regulator half has failed, so my opinion is to toss out the complete rec/reg, and buy or build a new rectifier ( one 3 phase rectifier or 2 bridge rectifiers).
You can keep using the old regulator if it works for you, but a VR-115 will be more reliable for the long term.
You already know the regulator half has failed, so my opinion is to toss out the complete rec/reg, and buy or build a new rectifier ( one 3 phase rectifier or 2 bridge rectifiers).
You can keep using the old regulator if it works for you, but a VR-115 will be more reliable for the long term.
OK I have the battery on the charger. Before so with it around 11.6 volts I did some probing. With the key on and the engine stop switch engaged the battery begins to drain quickly. Without the engine stop switch engaged it drops much slower. If I disconnect the yellow wire coming from the alternator along the outside of the three white wire connection the battery will stop draining. So the only way it will drain at a slow rate is if I turn the key on and not the engine stop switch with the yellow wire unconnected. Also when the yellow wire is connected the safety relay pings.
Sorry for the poor camera skills. But the info is there and thanks again for the help.
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Sorry for the poor camera skills. But the info is there and thanks again for the help.
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With the key on and the stop switch on, its normal for the battery voltage to decay as there is current flow going to one of the ignition coils (one set of points closed). There is also current flow to the alternator rotor via the brushes. Because your battery is discharged, the voltage decay appears worse than it would be with a fully charged battery.
With the key on and the stop switch off, you no longer have the ignition coil current, but you still have the current going to the rotor.
Since you hear the Safety Relay energize, with the yellow wire connected, that means the rectifier portion of the rec/reg has at least one diode that is shorted out, allowing current to flow backwards through the rectifier, through stator windings, through the yellow wire to the safety relay to ground.
What does this all mean? As I said yesterday, you need to toss out that rec/reg combo unit..................its toast.
Hey everyone. So i built the rectifier. I used the plans provided by retiredgentleman and wired it into the bike. Now I have put new fuel lines and fuel filters on and cleaned the carbs. I am still finding a very rapid drop in my batter voltage after turning the key. I also cant turn the bike over.
Pictures of rectifier coming soon.
Pictures of rectifier coming soon.
"I also cant turn the bike over".......................what does this mean?
Do you mean the starter motor won't crank the engine, or the kick starter won't turn the engine?
If you mean the starter motor can't do it, is your battery fully charged? How old is the battery?
This morning I hooked up the black wire from the rectifier to my batteries negative terminal. now when I turn the key I get magnetism from the left side cover. This is telling me that I have solved my charging problem.
However I haven't been able to confirm this because the bike is not turning over when I try to kick start it. I tried to switch the batteries and something kind of interesting happened. The first battery with key on and engine stop switch on dropped to 5.46 volts then started climbing slowly. The second battery dropped as well but the climb was much slower.
I'm not sure what to make of this. When I stopped working on the bike 2 months ago it was turning over but not charging. now it seems to not turn over but would charge if given the chance lol.
any thoughts?
However I haven't been able to confirm this because the bike is not turning over when I try to kick start it. I tried to switch the batteries and something kind of interesting happened. The first battery with key on and engine stop switch on dropped to 5.46 volts then started climbing slowly. The second battery dropped as well but the climb was much slower.
I'm not sure what to make of this. When I stopped working on the bike 2 months ago it was turning over but not charging. now it seems to not turn over but would charge if given the chance lol.
any thoughts?
Buy a new battery and charge it according to the manufacturer's instructions. You can't use old worn out batteries.
Last thing for today. I put a fully charged battery on the bike a few moments ago when I turned the key it only dropped by a little bit still within 12.3-12.4 tried starting the bike with the kick start and nothing. This is a battery on my friends xs650 that runs very well and charges.
