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Battery dies extremely quick.
- Thread starter BCoop
- Start date
Your probably right!Update.
My rotor is definitely toast. It doesn't have any resistance because well its cracked and worthless.
The bad connection in the headlight is causing a drop in voltage from the key switch to the positive brush with the key on. What comes before the key switch? The wires seem to disappear into the handle bars looking as thought they head to the kill switch. The other side looks like it goes back under the gas tank but after that I loose track.
The mysterious draw on the battery even when bike is turned off is still puzzling me. Could a severely brunt and stripped wire cause a battery to slowly loose charge while connected without the key on?
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My rotor is definitely toast. It doesn't have any resistance because well its cracked and worthless.
The bad connection in the headlight is causing a drop in voltage from the key switch to the positive brush with the key on. What comes before the key switch? The wires seem to disappear into the handle bars looking as thought they head to the kill switch. The other side looks like it goes back under the gas tank but after that I loose track.
The mysterious draw on the battery even when bike is turned off is still puzzling me. Could a severely brunt and stripped wire cause a battery to slowly loose charge while connected without the key on?
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Depending on how it's wired in, a leaky diode(s) in the rectifier can cause a drain...
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
A bad rectifier diode killed my sv650 battery.
Getting a wiring diagram for your bike makes tracing wires easy.
On your 75 there is a red wire off the battery positive that goes down beside the battery on the right side It goes to the fuse. Your bike only came with one. From this fuse it goes to the key switch. It has a branch before the fuse that comes from the charging system. This wire charges the battery.
After the fuse it branches off and sends power to the safety relay.
From your switch power flows out on the brown wire, this powers most of the bike. A red/yellow wire sends power to the headlight switch. A blue wire sends power to the dash and tail light.
Try following this power flow on a diagram. It may take a bit of studying but you need to learn how.
Once you learn how to trace the wires you will know where to test for things that don't work. Just follow the power till you loose it then the problem is between where it got lost and the last place before it got lost.
Lets say your headlight won't light and you tested the bulb and know it works. Using the trace we used earlier you check voltages along the red wire through the fuse to the main switch On the switch you have power on the red/yellow wire at the key switch but not at the red/yellow at the headlight switch. So the problem is between the key switch and headlight switch. Just look along this wire and check for a loose connection or broken wire.
See easy right?
A bit of practice and it gets easy, well easier.
Leo
On your 75 there is a red wire off the battery positive that goes down beside the battery on the right side It goes to the fuse. Your bike only came with one. From this fuse it goes to the key switch. It has a branch before the fuse that comes from the charging system. This wire charges the battery.
After the fuse it branches off and sends power to the safety relay.
From your switch power flows out on the brown wire, this powers most of the bike. A red/yellow wire sends power to the headlight switch. A blue wire sends power to the dash and tail light.
Try following this power flow on a diagram. It may take a bit of studying but you need to learn how.
Once you learn how to trace the wires you will know where to test for things that don't work. Just follow the power till you loose it then the problem is between where it got lost and the last place before it got lost.
Lets say your headlight won't light and you tested the bulb and know it works. Using the trace we used earlier you check voltages along the red wire through the fuse to the main switch On the switch you have power on the red/yellow wire at the key switch but not at the red/yellow at the headlight switch. So the problem is between the key switch and headlight switch. Just look along this wire and check for a loose connection or broken wire.
See easy right?
A bit of practice and it gets easy, well easier.
Leo
UPDATE!
The bike is still not charging but I'm a couple steps closer to fixing it. The ignition switch was completely garbage and so I'm in the market for another. If anyone knows of aftermarket key switches that work for a 1975 XS650B please let me know. I also need a new stator as I found mine was all fried inside
What I think happend was the horrible connection inside the headlight fried and took the ignition switch with it. I also had no brushes at the time but I'm not sure if that had anything to do with the stator being all fried up.
In the mean time I turned the headlight bracket upside down and now the head light sits lower. I think its makes the bike look a lot better (just my opinion). The unfortunate side is it highlighted the height of my handle bars. I guess I'll have to get some clubman bars while I'm buying parts.
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The bike is still not charging but I'm a couple steps closer to fixing it. The ignition switch was completely garbage and so I'm in the market for another. If anyone knows of aftermarket key switches that work for a 1975 XS650B please let me know. I also need a new stator as I found mine was all fried inside
What I think happend was the horrible connection inside the headlight fried and took the ignition switch with it. I also had no brushes at the time but I'm not sure if that had anything to do with the stator being all fried up.
In the mean time I turned the headlight bracket upside down and now the head light sits lower. I think its makes the bike look a lot better (just my opinion). The unfortunate side is it highlighted the height of my handle bars. I guess I'll have to get some clubman bars while I'm buying parts.
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ippytattoo
Just another grumpy old hack.
BCoop I have a good early rotor for non-tci bikes. It measures 5.4 ohms from slip ring to slip ring. PM me if you are interested in it.
Your pic shows a combo reg/rec. Do you need the three nylon screws? Depends. They make reg/rec's that work with a grounded brush and some don't. You need to figure out which one you have.
It looks to be an aftermarket reg/rec, a stock reg/rec would have three white wires not the three yellow.
Did you buy this reg/rec or did it come on the bike?
Leo
It looks to be an aftermarket reg/rec, a stock reg/rec would have three white wires not the three yellow.
Did you buy this reg/rec or did it come on the bike?
Leo
Unless it's marked with the manufacturer or seller and a model number I don't know.
You say the stock reg is wired in on the other side. Then what you have may be just a rectifier.
A rectifier will have just 5 wires. Looking closer at your pic I see 5 wires, three yellows, a red and a green. The three yellows are the three phase AC input from the stator. The red and green are the DC output. I assume the red wire is hooked to the battery positive, the green to ground.
Leo
You say the stock reg is wired in on the other side. Then what you have may be just a rectifier.
A rectifier will have just 5 wires. Looking closer at your pic I see 5 wires, three yellows, a red and a green. The three yellows are the three phase AC input from the stator. The red and green are the DC output. I assume the red wire is hooked to the battery positive, the green to ground.
Leo
It looks new but it could be bad. Do you have a repair manual? In the Clymer book page 38 starts the alternator troubleshooting. it has a diagram showing just the charging system, figure 2.
Read through this, skip the adjustment part, start with the regulator testing. these tests will show if your regulator is ok.
There are tests to check the rectifier. Do these tests. Write the test results down. The readings on your rectifier may be different than the books but the main thing is that the readings one way should be at least ten times as much as the other way.
Leo
Read through this, skip the adjustment part, start with the regulator testing. these tests will show if your regulator is ok.
There are tests to check the rectifier. Do these tests. Write the test results down. The readings on your rectifier may be different than the books but the main thing is that the readings one way should be at least ten times as much as the other way.
Leo
Hey, everyone. I have ordered the new ignition switch and a buddy of mine told me I needed a new stator so I bought that as well. The question I'm having is what about my rotor? When I test the rotor I get no resistance from ring to ring. I also have read other places that if I get no reading on the rotor it could be shorted and what caused my connections in the key switch to fry along with the other wires I've shown. Is this right?
I've bought enough for the bike now that all I need is a rectifier, regulator and rotor and the whole charging system will be swapped out.
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I've bought enough for the bike now that all I need is a rectifier, regulator and rotor and the whole charging system will be swapped out.
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Hello everyone, chasing my tail here lol. XSLEO thanks for all the help! I have a better picture of my rectifier. I think it may in fact be a rec/reg.
I also have a wire that is just cut off not connected to anything but when I meter it there is a full battery current coming through.
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I also have a wire that is just cut off not connected to anything but when I meter it there is a full battery current coming through.
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Attachments
I thought you decided the rotor was bad back in post #42. There should be around 5 ohms resistance from slip ring to slip ring. If your rotor has less than 4 ohms then its toast.
Yes, it appears that you have the Mikesxs.com rectifier/regulator for 1970 to 1979 years, part #24-2089. Here is the instruction sheet from Mikesxs. It shows how to connect the coloured wires.
The red wire in your harness is probably the connection that goes to the ignition key and main fuse. You can prove that by removing the main fuse; use your ohm meter to check for 0 resistance from the red wire to the red wire on your ignition switch.
Rec/reg wires:
3 yellow connect to the 3 whites from the stator.
red connects to the red wire in the harness ( ignition key and main fuse).
blue connects to the brown in the harness (load side of the ignition key).
orange connects to the green in the harness ( left outer brush)
green connects to black in the harness (right inner brush). You said you have a new stator. If its from Mikesxs, the inner brush uses a red wire, so connect the rec/reg green to the stator red wire.
You need to run a black wire from the rec/reg case (bare metal) to a good ground on the bike frame (bare metal)
Attachments
Thank you! I have been scratching my brain looking for the problem. the original regulator is still wired into the bike. What would that do if left unchecked?
This is how it is currently wired
Starting from rec/reg
1) 3 yellow connected to 3 white from stator.
2) red connected to 20 amp fuse to battery positive.
3) green to battery negative
4) blue to tail light(second picture)
5) orange to black coming out of same place as 3 white wires.(first picture)
I have a replacement stator(used) and a replacement key switch(used) to swap out the burnt up stuff. I need to order the rotor soon.
Could this wiring configuration damage my rec/reg?
What would your next move be?
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This is how it is currently wired
Starting from rec/reg
1) 3 yellow connected to 3 white from stator.
2) red connected to 20 amp fuse to battery positive.
3) green to battery negative
4) blue to tail light(second picture)
5) orange to black coming out of same place as 3 white wires.(first picture)
I have a replacement stator(used) and a replacement key switch(used) to swap out the burnt up stuff. I need to order the rotor soon.
Could this wiring configuration damage my rec/reg?
What would your next move be?
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Attachments
Last edited:
Ok, Read the instructions RG posted. The blue from the reg/rec does not go to the tail light it goes to the brown wire that went to the stock regulator. The orange from the reg/rec goes to the green wire from the stock reg.
Take the stock regulator off.
Leo
Take the stock regulator off.
Leo
First let me say thanks to XsLeo and RetiredGentleman for your expertise on these issues. I will be changing the wiring around tomorrow and have already unhooked the regulator.
If I understand correctly I will not need the nylon screws because of the type of rec/reg I have. Is this accurate?
If so all I need to do is
1)install new stator
2)install new key switch
3)hook reg/rec up correctly and get a new rotor
and I should be charging and riding?
can you think of anything I may have missed?
Also I had a front brake that was siezed up and now the piston wont come out of the caliper
So far I've used compressed air, a grease gun, and even put some volitile mixture inside and tried to blow it out lol. Its just so rusted in there its almost like the piston is part of the caliper now.
I guess I should stick to one problem at a time but I have the replacement brake pads and rebuild kit ready to go just have to get this caliper out and hopefully salvage it if possible.
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If I understand correctly I will not need the nylon screws because of the type of rec/reg I have. Is this accurate?
If so all I need to do is
1)install new stator
2)install new key switch
3)hook reg/rec up correctly and get a new rotor
and I should be charging and riding?
can you think of anything I may have missed?
Also I had a front brake that was siezed up and now the piston wont come out of the caliper
So far I've used compressed air, a grease gun, and even put some volitile mixture inside and tried to blow it out lol. Its just so rusted in there its almost like the piston is part of the caliper now.
I guess I should stick to one problem at a time but I have the replacement brake pads and rebuild kit ready to go just have to get this caliper out and hopefully salvage it if possible.
Posted via Mobile
First let me say thanks to XsLeo and RetiredGentleman for your expertise on these issues. I will be changing the wiring around tomorrow and have already unhooked the regulator.
If I understand correctly I will not need the nylon screws because of the type of rec/reg I have. Is this accurate?
If so all I need to do is
1)install new stator
2)install new key switch
3)hook reg/rec up correctly and get a new rotor
and I should be charging and riding?
can you think of anything I may have missed?
Also I had a front brake that was siezed up and now the piston wont come out of the caliper
So far I've used compressed air, a grease gun, and even put some volitile mixture inside and tried to blow it out lol. Its just so rusted in there its almost like the piston is part of the caliper now.
I guess I should stick to one problem at a time but I have the replacement brake pads and rebuild kit ready to go just have to get this caliper out and hopefully salvage it if possible.
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Nylon screws not required.
Your "to do" list looks good to get your bike charging properly.
I suggest that you buy a caliper/piston that is in better condition................perhaps from the classified section on this web site, or buy a new one from places such as Mikesxs.com.
