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Battery dies extremely quick.
- Thread starter BCoop
- Start date
Good catch ippytattoo, you get a cookie!
You may need more than a brush, BCoop. Like the whole brush holder and such.
There's some pics here: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29146
You may need more than a brush, BCoop. Like the whole brush holder and such.
There's some pics here: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29146
ANLAF
XS650 Guru
Problem solved. Nice one, Ippytattoo.
Anlaf
Anlaf
Mike's item #24-7079 $10.95, brushes, item #24-2650 $16. Much better than boats.net price of $29.62 and the brushes sell each at $23.25 for one and $29.30 for the other.
Leo
Leo
On your solid state reg/rec is it designed for the 70-79 alternator or designed for the 80 up alternator. There is a big difference.
Your bike being a 75, power is sent to the reg then to the brushes.
On the 80 up power is sent to the brushes the to the reg/rec.
You need to determine which reg/rec you have.
Leo
Your bike being a 75, power is sent to the reg then to the brushes.
On the 80 up power is sent to the brushes the to the reg/rec.
You need to determine which reg/rec you have.
Leo
On the stock wiring the connector you are looking for is inside the headlight bucket. It is easy to find, it has three or four wires. A red, a brown and a blue. Sometimes a red/yellow, power to the headlight switch.
On a homemade wiring harness it could be anywhere. Where ever your key switch is just follow the wires and you will find the connector or just do it at the back of the switch. The red wire is hot from the battery and should have a 20 amp fuse between the switch and battery.
Leo
On a homemade wiring harness it could be anywhere. Where ever your key switch is just follow the wires and you will find the connector or just do it at the back of the switch. The red wire is hot from the battery and should have a 20 amp fuse between the switch and battery.
Leo
Thanks for the help. I took a reading between the two copper wrings on the rotor, with my meter set on 200 ohms. It was 00.5-00.8..
I also took a reading with my red lead on the positive brush and the black on the engine case to ground that came up about 2 volts lower than my batteries voltage at the time.
What should I make of this?
Posted via Mobile
I also took a reading with my red lead on the positive brush and the black on the engine case to ground that came up about 2 volts lower than my batteries voltage at the time.
What should I make of this?
Posted via Mobile
When you test low ohms you should check the ohms of just the leads. Set your meter to the 200 ohm scale, touch the leads together. This will give you a reading of the ohms of the leads. On my Sunpro meter I get .1 ohms, the same leads in my Cen Tech meter they read .5 ohms. What ever you get remember it.
Now test the slip ring on the rotor. Lets say it reads 5.3. On the Sunpro I subtract the .1 and get 5.2 well within the specs. With the Cen Tech, 5.3 - .5 is 4.8 still within spec.
A reading of 00.5-00.8 is either very low or you are doing something wrong.
Try cleaning the rings with a very fine sand paper and electrical contact cleaner. the sandpaper can leave some of the glue on the rotor, the electrical contact cleaner will remove the glue. Try again.
Another thing is go to radio shack and pick up a small pack of 5 ohm resisters. Use these to learn a bit more about how your meter works.
With a two volt drop at the brushes you have a bad connection some where. Most often inside the key switch. Most can be taken apart and cleaned.
To further test check voltage at the fuse, on the red wire at the key switch and with the key on at the brown wire.
The reg uses the brown wire not only as a power supply for the rotor but as a voltage sensing wire. It reads the voltage on the brown wire and uses this voltage to determine if the battery needs charging. If the voltage on the brown wire is 2 volts low at the reg if it charges it will try to charge the battery to 2 volts higher.
Not a good thing.
Recheck your rotor if it still reads lower than about 5 ohms your rotor is bad.
Leo
Now test the slip ring on the rotor. Lets say it reads 5.3. On the Sunpro I subtract the .1 and get 5.2 well within the specs. With the Cen Tech, 5.3 - .5 is 4.8 still within spec.
A reading of 00.5-00.8 is either very low or you are doing something wrong.
Try cleaning the rings with a very fine sand paper and electrical contact cleaner. the sandpaper can leave some of the glue on the rotor, the electrical contact cleaner will remove the glue. Try again.
Another thing is go to radio shack and pick up a small pack of 5 ohm resisters. Use these to learn a bit more about how your meter works.
With a two volt drop at the brushes you have a bad connection some where. Most often inside the key switch. Most can be taken apart and cleaned.
To further test check voltage at the fuse, on the red wire at the key switch and with the key on at the brown wire.
The reg uses the brown wire not only as a power supply for the rotor but as a voltage sensing wire. It reads the voltage on the brown wire and uses this voltage to determine if the battery needs charging. If the voltage on the brown wire is 2 volts low at the reg if it charges it will try to charge the battery to 2 volts higher.
Not a good thing.
Recheck your rotor if it still reads lower than about 5 ohms your rotor is bad.
Leo
Checked everything again today. With my key turned off my battery is at 12.6 and dropping slowly while connected to the bike and just taken off the charger/maintainer.
With the key on my voltage drops to 11.38 and drops by 0.01 volts a second. The reading on the positive brush brown wire is about 4 volts lower at 7.18 and dropping at the same rate as battery.
My rotor with the stator taken off measures .5-.8 ohms with a .5 natural resistance so around 0-0.2ohms.
Up inside my light there is a burnt connection running from the key switch. When I turn the key on it measures around 8.63 volts and gets warm in my hand. I'll attach a picture of this connection.
With the key on my voltage drops to 11.38 and drops by 0.01 volts a second. The reading on the positive brush brown wire is about 4 volts lower at 7.18 and dropping at the same rate as battery.
My rotor with the stator taken off measures .5-.8 ohms with a .5 natural resistance so around 0-0.2ohms.
Up inside my light there is a burnt connection running from the key switch. When I turn the key on it measures around 8.63 volts and gets warm in my hand. I'll attach a picture of this connection.
Attachments
Yep, shorted rotor, pulling LOTS of current, heating up circuitry and switches in its path.
After replacing rotor, will need to refresh connectors and switches...
After replacing rotor, will need to refresh connectors and switches...
I assume you found gggGarys expanded charging system thread but will post a link as well as another wiring harness musings from 1974jh5.
Make sure you get the brushes for the pre 80 Stator
Make sure you get the brushes for the pre 80 Stator
Could do the complete tune-up. Camchain, valves, points, timing, using the currently attached rotor. Then, future unlikely problems averted after mounting new rotor...
My '75 doesn't charge well.. I have to put a battery on it about every 6 to 8 months... I put one on it earlier this year and I just replaced that one today... Mine charges pretty good while I'm cruising but at the lights it barely charges... I think the these bike just beat them to death with all the vibration.... I;m thinking of changing my alternator to a PMA setup.... Best of luck to you and welcome to the forum..
jmink427, It's paying you back for chopping up a great looking origional 75B
Is this some variation of "Remote ridicule" found in massively-multiplayer video games, an XS voo-doo?
