Use a big C-clamp on the caliper to squeeze the stuck piston in a little bit and break it free. Then have at it with your air, grease, or whatever. You will probably need to work it back and forth for a bit - blow out until it stops, squeeze back in, blow out again, etc.
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Battery dies extremely quick.
- Thread starter BCoop
- Start date
yamahammer
XS650 Addict
Man that is a sweet looking, unmolested bike
Thanks yamahammer!
I plan to keep everything stock accept the handle bars. So far I've just turned the headlight bracket upside down so it sits lower, put in bigger jets and took the mufflers off.
Here's a picture of her the day she came home and what it looks like right now.
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I plan to keep everything stock accept the handle bars. So far I've just turned the headlight bracket upside down so it sits lower, put in bigger jets and took the mufflers off.
Here's a picture of her the day she came home and what it looks like right now.
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yamahammer
XS650 Addict
I love the look of those 75 mufflers. Just bought a set in the classifieds from Taggart. My rephase doesn't like the 2-1 system.
yamahammer
XS650 Addict
Charging rotor or brake?
yamahammer
XS650 Addict
That would have tci. I cant imagine that the spinning part is any different but I've not examined them side by side. A parts fiche from each year should tell you if there's a different part number.
Yes it will work. The main difference is that the TCI rotor has a magnet for the TCI.
Just be sure the seller will except returns, it may not be as good as the seller claims.
If the cost is very much I would recommend getting yours rewound. Call Gary at Custom Rewinds 1-800-798-7782
Leo
Just be sure the seller will except returns, it may not be as good as the seller claims.
If the cost is very much I would recommend getting yours rewound. Call Gary at Custom Rewinds 1-800-798-7782
Leo
The connection for the stock regulator has three wires green, brown, and black. Green and brown are covered by the blue and orange from the rev/rec. what about the black?
Also the red wire from the rec/reg is connected to the positive terminal on the battery. Does this sounds ok to you? I know it recharges the battery so does it matter of its hooked into the harness or directly connected to the battery?
Also the red wire from the rec/reg is connected to the positive terminal on the battery. Does this sounds ok to you? I know it recharges the battery so does it matter of its hooked into the harness or directly connected to the battery?
That black wire in the harness should be the commom ground wire that runs to the frame metal. You could use that wire to connect to the bare metal of the rec/reg. If you doubt that is a good ground, then run a new black wire (14 gauge) , from the rec/reg bare metal to the frame bare metal.
Red wire ..................it does not matter whether it goes directly to the battery + or to a wire in the harness that also goes to the battery +. However, its wise to use a 20 amp fuse in the red wire that comes from the battery +.
Yes its fine to do nothing with the black, as long as you ground the rec/reg case to the frame of the bike.
Ok great!
So right now I have orange and blue from rec/reg going to green and brown on regulator side. The black on the regulator side of connection is left unconnected.
The rectifier has three yellow going to three white on the stator and green to black coming from the stator.
The the thick red wire from rec/reg is connected to the battery. I want to connect the replacement key switch. The only problem is I am unsure about how to connect it back in. The entire thing is stock. I also want to reconnect just the tachometer and not the speedo meter.
Is this just as simple as connecting all like colors inside the headlight?
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So right now I have orange and blue from rec/reg going to green and brown on regulator side. The black on the regulator side of connection is left unconnected.
The rectifier has three yellow going to three white on the stator and green to black coming from the stator.
The the thick red wire from rec/reg is connected to the battery. I want to connect the replacement key switch. The only problem is I am unsure about how to connect it back in. The entire thing is stock. I also want to reconnect just the tachometer and not the speedo meter.
Is this just as simple as connecting all like colors inside the headlight?
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If you have a stock harness up in the head light bucket is where the stock switch plugged in. You can use this connector to hook in a replacement switch.
Yours is a 75 right? If so the harness plug in the headlight bucket has a three wire plug, with a red, brown and a red/yellow wires. And a single wire plug with a blue wire. If you are using a stock replacement it should plug right in. If you are using one with a different amount or color of wires, no problem.
The red wire in the plug is power to the switch, the brown is power out to most of the bike. The red/yellow is power to the headlight dimmer switch. The blue is power to the tail light.
Depending on the new switch you use it could have two, three or four wires. Tell us how many and what color the wires on the new switch are. Then we can help figure out just how to wire it.
Leo
Yours is a 75 right? If so the harness plug in the headlight bucket has a three wire plug, with a red, brown and a red/yellow wires. And a single wire plug with a blue wire. If you are using a stock replacement it should plug right in. If you are using one with a different amount or color of wires, no problem.
The red wire in the plug is power to the switch, the brown is power out to most of the bike. The red/yellow is power to the headlight dimmer switch. The blue is power to the tail light.
Depending on the new switch you use it could have two, three or four wires. Tell us how many and what color the wires on the new switch are. Then we can help figure out just how to wire it.
Leo
I have a replacement switch that's from a 74-75 xs650. Today I plugged everything in, put the new rotor on turned the key and nothing. It doesn't seem to send voltage to the brush. It fires over like a champ and runs really good but no charging. I have a suspicion that I am missing a connection or something. How many brown wires are connected to the key switch in the headlight?
Seeing as today is Thanksgiving I would like to say I am extremely grateful to all who have helped me with this project. I hope one day to ride with one or all of you!
.... I will be uploading a video that will completely show you my set up as it is now. I figure this way you can see the bike and have a better idea of what my situation is.
Happy Tofurky Day!
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.... I will be uploading a video that will completely show you my set up as it is now. I figure this way you can see the bike and have a better idea of what my situation is.
Happy Tofurky Day!
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Hey, back at it today. I made a video and uploaded it to youtube so you guys can get a better look at my situation. If you notice anything let me know. Also I think it might be cool to take requests. So if you would like to see something specific or a variety of things I could always make more videos.
I suggest you remove the battery to the bench and charge it at 1.5 to 2 amps for 6 to 8 hours.
It looks like you are trying to ground the rec/reg to the battery box. You can't do that because the battery box is rubber mounted, and is not grounded to the frame. Use a 14 gauge copper wire (black), from the rec/reg bare metal to the frame bare metal.
Can we assume your brushes are 3/8" or longer?
Turn on the ignition key and use your VOM to measure the DC voltage from one brush to the other brush. Do this at the terminals on the alternator, which should be the black and green wires. Voltage should be within 0.5 volts of the battery voltage (less tha 0.3 volts is better) .
It looks like you are trying to ground the rec/reg to the battery box. You can't do that because the battery box is rubber mounted, and is not grounded to the frame. Use a 14 gauge copper wire (black), from the rec/reg bare metal to the frame bare metal.
Can we assume your brushes are 3/8" or longer?
Turn on the ignition key and use your VOM to measure the DC voltage from one brush to the other brush. Do this at the terminals on the alternator, which should be the black and green wires. Voltage should be within 0.5 volts of the battery voltage (less tha 0.3 volts is better) .
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