Very nice - I really like that spin-on filter. Who did that for you?
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What have you done to your XS today?
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Very nice - I really like that spin-on filter. Who did that for you?
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
It's a guy call Smedspeed in the UK, you send him your plate and he media blasts it and machines it to accept the adapter. You also get the filter plus a genuine Yamaha gasket all for £60 (around $79) mailed back to you.
Awesome!
I like that a lot better than the stock “filtration” system which is actually pretty cumbersome and also pretty rudimentary. I think I’ll go for this when the winter non-riding season comes.
I like that a lot better than the stock “filtration” system which is actually pretty cumbersome and also pretty rudimentary. I think I’ll go for this when the winter non-riding season comes.
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
Yeah, I think this way the oil is actually filtered! I'm still going to change the oil every thousand miles or so, bit it will be so much easier, plus there is no side strainer now, it's just sealed up with a gasket
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the bolt for that strainer contains the press. regulating valve. I'd be wanting to leave that in there.... even without the screen.
Yes - I think I’d leave the entire clutch cover strainer in place. It can be cleaned pretty easily and combined with a proper modern filter, would, it seems to me, provide pretty good protection.
Jim, that's the bypass valve for the sidefilter.
The oil pump pressure relief valve (that dumps to the sump) on our XSs was dropped after 1971, so we're getting everything the pump can possibly put out, full flow at all times, about 1 gpm @ 3000 rpm, for the 8mm pump.
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
I did leave the big retaining bolt under the cover, as it kind of looked important!
The guy explained his thoughts on the side strainer:
a) it's pretty poor as a filter, Yamaha should have gone their own way instead of aping Brit twins.
b) it's now redundant as the paper filters down to 5 microns
The Brit twins I used to service have a sludge trap in the crank. Not my idea of convenience.
The newer aftermarket "Fuji" sidefilter has a much finer mesh.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-filter.72/page-14#post-552492
If not using the sidefilter, the bypass valve bolt serves no purpose, and can be left out...
The newer aftermarket "Fuji" sidefilter has a much finer mesh.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-filter.72/page-14#post-552492
If not using the sidefilter, the bypass valve bolt serves no purpose, and can be left out...
excellent.! I particularly like the screw -on oil filter. I hadn't realised that Howard was adapting sump plates for this mod . I know he previously sold them modified for an internal filter .
Thanks for the tip about the rear shocks, I've never been able to lift my 79 onto the main stand.
I have the same problem with my fuel bowls occasionally not shutting off. I sometimes wonder if it isn't due to all the sticky detergent crap they put in our fuels this side of the pond. It never ceases to surprise me how much residue there is in the fuel bowls every spring carb clean.
Thanks for the tip about the rear shocks, I've never been able to lift my 79 onto the main stand.
I have the same problem with my fuel bowls occasionally not shutting off. I sometimes wonder if it isn't due to all the sticky detergent crap they put in our fuels this side of the pond. It never ceases to surprise me how much residue there is in the fuel bowls every spring carb clean.
thats a fantastic gift....the best model year there is in my opinion.
Please don't chop or bob it you'll be really glad you didn't . As Pete says try it stock first then maybe consider cafe ,street tracker , etc but don't chop/bob it ........thats so passé
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
Cheers Peanut!
Howard did a brilliant job, and It was back with me within a week of sending it off.
I bought the float valves and bodies from M&P, you will know them... I doubt they are Mikuni but they where coated tips (forget what they are coated with!).
I was having a hot start issue and I thought it was down to sticky floats (they never overflowed though), so I was surprised when the new hardware caused an instant overflow; I think in this case it was down to the little wire hanger that holds the float tab, all I could see that it was cock-eyed a bit, being (cheap) all new parts they might need to wear a bit to slide smoothly?
Ive been running Forte fuel cleaner through it for a couple of tanks (it was reduced to £5 in my local motor factors) in a bid to get any unreachable residue.
Howard did a brilliant job, and It was back with me within a week of sending it off.
I bought the float valves and bodies from M&P, you will know them... I doubt they are Mikuni but they where coated tips (forget what they are coated with!).
I was having a hot start issue and I thought it was down to sticky floats (they never overflowed though), so I was surprised when the new hardware caused an instant overflow; I think in this case it was down to the little wire hanger that holds the float tab, all I could see that it was cock-eyed a bit, being (cheap) all new parts they might need to wear a bit to slide smoothly?
Ive been running Forte fuel cleaner through it for a couple of tanks (it was reduced to £5 in my local motor factors) in a bid to get any unreachable residue.
the fuel cleaner sounds like a good idea. I only ride mine about 300 miles a year on dry Summer days so it spends extended periods unused. I forgot to drain the fuel bowls one year and I couldn't believe the verdigris and oxidation in the fuel bowls and floats which were completely green !.some lemon juice and civic bang brought them back pdq but I'm going to get an ultra sonic which should save a lot of time.
I did a video a while back on float adjustment and flooding issues .I found 2x main issues which were the float tang not being perpendicular to the float valve making one side of the needle drag on the float needle chamber and also the float pivot being a loose fit on the pin which meant too much tolerance on the float setting. You might find something useful .
M&P have a good range of parts but for obscure OEM stuff try Fowlers of Bristol they are brilliant . Also yambits and Wemoto of course .
I did a video a while back on float adjustment and flooding issues .I found 2x main issues which were the float tang not being perpendicular to the float valve making one side of the needle drag on the float needle chamber and also the float pivot being a loose fit on the pin which meant too much tolerance on the float setting. You might find something useful .
M&P have a good range of parts but for obscure OEM stuff try Fowlers of Bristol they are brilliant . Also yambits and Wemoto of course .
Quick question- when I replaced my exhaust gaskets, I didn’t torque the flanges down flush with the engine. There is probably 1/4” or a little less space between the flanges and the engine. It felt like the nuts were getting tight, and the torque specs sheet says 9.5 ft lbs, which seems really low, so I didnt want to over torque them. How much, if any space is supposed to be there?
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Yeah.... I seem to be having an inordinately large amount of brain farts lately....
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
I believe on a special a 1-2 mm is expected, that is a 2 piece exhaust, i.e. you cant remove the mufflers.
Mine is a ‘77, with what I guess I would call a 4 piece system, with removable mufflers.
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
Oop, well someone who has a 77 will chime in with an answer I'm sure. Are they Yamaha gaskets?
Yep, there is a 1/8-3/16" space between the flange and head. The gasket is a crush style, so if you torque the correct amount, it should be okay. Make sure there is only 1 gasket in there also.
