First time rehab of a 1976ish basket case

Should I cut down front fender or leave it?

  • Total voters
    7
JimD54 said:
Here's a little added touch you can do to your wiring that helps keep track of you terminations. Colored heat shrink....

View attachment 128077

A black wire is now a black/white (B/W). I know Ace hardware has multi-colored packs. I'm sure there's other places.
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Thanks Jim, I'll grab some. Just using tape and markers for now. I've got spark, but can't get starter motor to turn over. Gonna run thru a few more options before I do a full write up of questions. Continuity everywhere and full battery.. :banghead:
 
fredintoon said:
Hi Jim,
Mr. Bodger would check that by bridging the starter relay's power studs with a length of sturdy wire. Or a pair of needle-nose pliers.
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That would verify the starter Fred. If he touched the solenoid terminal that goes to the switch.... to ground, it'd also verify the solenoid.
 
JimD54 said:
Your handlebars are painted. Suspect the starter button ain't finding a ground.
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Shaved I tiny spot off my bars with a razor blade, measuring resistance from blue/white wire to tiny spot on bars is ~16.5ohms. Is that not an acceptable amount of resistance? Maybe pull right side switch assembly and sand down bars? Ps starter worked before wiring was pulled..
 
fredintoon said:
Hi Jim,
Mr. Bodger would check that by bridging the starter relay's power studs with a length of sturdy wire. Or a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Click to expand...
Well that sounds like a good idea, but I don't know how to execute that command!! You're gonna have to lead the horse to water and dunk it's head in on that one..
 
Since you don't have the safety relay, run power through the kill switch to the starter solenoid. You could just splice into the coil power. The blue/white wire goes to the starter sw. Use an extra bit of wire to touch that B/W wire to ground and see if the starter spins.

IMG_3597.JPG
 
JimD54 said:
Since you don't have the safety relay, run power through the kill switch to the starter solenoid. You could just splice into the coil power. The blue/white wire goes to the starter sw. Use an extra bit of wire to touch that B/W wire to ground and see if the starter spins.


View attachment 128085
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right now I've got b/w from solenoid b/w on starter button, red on solenoid to brown on stop switch (going from switch to coils) still no dice. Are you saying to run the b/w to start button AND to frame ground? I just did that and got it to turn over without starter button being pushed (and would continue to try to start till I pulled ground)
 
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LiveSlowDieWhenever said:
re you saying to run the b/w to start button AND to frame ground?
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No..... just touch the bl/w wire to ground temporarily and see if starter spins. You'll be doing by hand what the starter sw. does... provide a ground. If that works, it tells us the problem is from there out to the switch. If it don't work, we have a power problem. We're trying to isolate the problem.
 
JimD54 said:
No..... just touch the bl/w wire to ground temporarily and see if starter spins. You'll be doing by hand what the starter sw. does... provide a ground. If that works, it tells us the problem is from there out to the switch. If it don't work, we have a power problem. We're trying to isolate the problem.
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So that confirms bad ground inside of switch then, right? Because it turns if grounded! You guys are a lifesaver.
 
LiveSlowDieWhenever said:
to run the b/w to start button AND to frame ground? I just did that and got it to turn over without starter button being pushed (and would continue to try to start till I pulled ground)
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Just saw your edit. The problem is from the bl/w from the solenoid out to the switch. You said earlier you had 16 ohms at the handlebar ground. That won't hack it. it needs to be less than 1 ohm.
 
JimD54 said:
Just saw your edit. The problem is from the bl/w from the solenoid out to the switch. You said earlier you had 16 ohms at the handlebar ground. That won't hack it. it needs to be less than 1 ohm.
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Breaking out the dremel to cut some slots in the stripped out handebar housing. Time to break more stuff trying to fix stuff
 
LiveSlowDieWhenever said:
So that confirms bad ground inside of switch then, right? Because it turns if grounded! You guys are a lifesaver.
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If I remember correctly (and I might be wrong here), the left handlebar sw provides the ground.The starter sw. ground runs through the handlebars to the left sw. housing. Is the left sw. connected?
 
View attachment 128087Is that rusty rusyy
JimD54 said:
If I remember correctly (and I might be wrong here), the left handlebar sw provides the ground.The starter sw. ground runs through the handlebars to the left sw. housing. Is the left sw. connected?
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it is, but nothin is connected currently. I'm thinking bad ground from inside switch.. is this crusty think supposed to be the ground contact?
You_Doodle+_2018-10-21T21_22_46Z.jpg
 
Anywhere the switch housing touches the handlebars provides the ground. But..... the handlebar risers are rubber isolated from the triple tree. The handlebars themselves aren't actually grounded. The ground has to go between the 2 switch housings and out the left wire harness.
 
JimD54 said:
Anywhere the switch housing touches the handlebars provides the ground. But..... the handlebar risers are rubber isolated from the triple tree. The handlebars themselves aren't actually grounded. The ground has to go between the 2 switch housings and out the left wire harness.
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Thanks Jim! So I won't have a proper ground (via wiring harness) until I wire in some other stuff I guess. At least I know starter circuit is good and can move on! :cheers:
 
Yes, you won't get a proper ground for the start button in the right switch assembly until you install and plug in the left switch assembly. It has a ground wire running into the headlight bucket then to frame ground. It shares this ground with the right switch assembly through the handlebars. That means you will probably want to inspect that contact to make sure it isn't all rusty like the right side one was .....

b7KE9dP.jpg
 
5twins said:
Yes, you won't get a proper ground for the start button in the right switch assembly until you install and plug in the left switch assembly. It has a ground wire running into the headlight bucket then to frame ground. It shares this ground with the right switch assembly through the handlebars. That means you will probably want to inspect that contact to make sure it isn't all rusty like the right side one was .....

b7KE9dP.jpg
Click to expand...
Thanks for the confirmation 5t, I appreciate it. I have to pull the left side anyway since the housing is cracked so I'm sure there's gonna be some rust in there. Wiring sucksssss
 
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