If you have the slide/diaphragm assemblies out, carefully inspect them. Gently stretch them away from the slide and look at the seam where they're clamped onto it. Hold them up to a light and look for pin holes there.
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First time rehab of a 1976ish basket case
- Thread starter LiveSlowDieWhenever
- Start date
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
Thanks 5t, no discernable holes but they felt pretty stiff and dry, think a small application of silicone grease around flange would help?
Gotta step real careful there, most "silicone" lubes have little silicone and lots of petroleum based grease, oils. There's long threads on this. Been using dielectric silicone but not certain that's the perfect answer either. Just got some 100% wintergreen oil, also have some really old crusty diaphragms will probably be some 'spearminting this winter.
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Lately, I've been smearing the lips of the diaphragms where they fit into the carb top groove with red rubber grease. Seems to work well and I figure it will seal better than a dry fit. I love this red rubber grease and have been using it on all my rubber bits since I got it a few years ago. It's supposedly 100% safe for use on all rubber because it's not petroleum based, it's vegetable oil based. It's readily available in England, in fact that's where I ordered mine from, not so easy to find in this country though .....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Castrol-Mo...h=item4880054e22:g:BpwAAOSwyQtVpaux:rk:3:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Castrol-Mo...h=item4880054e22:g:BpwAAOSwyQtVpaux:rk:3:pf:0
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
I've read through a few threads where you suggested dielectric grease, which I'll be ordering anyway for wiring job so I'll start with that, but may have to invest into some of that red rubber grease 5twins has been having success with
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
Maybe just some good old fashioned veggie oil around the diaphram lip to test for leakage at top cap is in order! I read something you'd posted about that red grease and it seems like the safest bet, especially for areas where swelling could be catastrophic or in high-wear areas
It is specifically intended for the seals and rubber parts in hydraulic brake systems, and works very well for that, but I put it on any rubber bits I want to lube up. It works really well on the footpeg bracket rubber bushings, making them slide on and off the mounting studs with ease.
Did you check for holes using a bright light (directly at the sun)? These holes are usually small and can only be seen this way. Rips are obvious.
Scott
Scott
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
Thanks for dropping in, Scott. I used my phone flashlight, but then I couldn't take a photo
I'll pop em back out when my lube gets here and use my 50w lamp, but no holes that I could notice, just dry and stiff feeling, just like the rubber in my wallet from senior prom
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
You're referring to the red grease, right? I think I'm gonna order some, another tool in the bag! It's actually readily available on amazon in smaller quantities and faster/cheaper shipping (granted, you pay more per gram) Just search Castrol red rubber grease in the amazon search bar!
Something else I recommend adding to your growing tool collection, if you don't already have it, is anti-seize. I've been using this stuff almost longer than I can remember. Practically every nut and bolt on the bike gets it applied, especially the ones going into aluminum. Honestly, I put it on almost every nut and bolt I install anywhere (car, lawn mower, snow blower, etc.). My preferred type is the copper-based stuff because it's copper colored and it shows up well on the threads. It also has the added bonus of conducting electricity so is great for coating the eye crimps on the ends of your ground wires before bolting them down to the frame. Keeps them from corroding and enhances the connection at the same time. Several companies make it but the one I prefer is called C5-A. I tried another brand when I needed some because I was running low and I don't think it has as much copper in it. It's more gray than copper colored.
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
Thanks 5t! Never seen the copper-flavor but I'm also a firm believer in the silver goo! This is my first rebuild but I did a ton of metal fab work as a glass blower servicing our hotshop equipment in south jersey for about 5 years, and those silver globs saved my ass more times then I can remember! 2000+ farenheight on any exposed metal can be a threaded rods worst nightmare!
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
No you don't need the safety relay. Depending on year, the safety relay disables the starter after the engine starts. There was a time in the not too distant past where we relied on the operator to be smart enough to release the start button and leave it alone while it's running. Think you can handle that? 
The safety relay is also used on newer bikes to automatically turn on the lights once the engines started. If you want that function, you'll need the relay. If not, put an on/off switch on the handlebars.
Here's the nice thing about you re-wiring the bike... you can add or subtract any function you want. It's a frankenbike.... wire it with as much or as little as you want.
It would help us if you put the wiring diagram you're using up here.... or did I miss that post?
The safety relay is also used on newer bikes to automatically turn on the lights once the engines started. If you want that function, you'll need the relay. If not, put an on/off switch on the handlebars.
Here's the nice thing about you re-wiring the bike... you can add or subtract any function you want. It's a frankenbike.... wire it with as much or as little as you want.
It would help us if you put the wiring diagram you're using up here.... or did I miss that post?
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
I'm caveman smart, no push button when bike growl... also there's a headlight on/off switch integrated into starter/killswitch housing on right handlebarNo you don't need the safety relay. Depending on year, the safety relay disables the starter after the engine starts. There was a time in the not too distant past where we relied on the operator to be smart enough to release the start button and leave it alone while it's running. Think you can handle that?
The safety relay is also used on newer bike to automatically turn on the lights once the engines started. If you want that function, you'll need the relay. If not, put an on/off switch on the handlebars.
Here's the nice thing about you re-wiring the bike... you can add or subtract any function you want. It's a frankenbike.... wire it with as much or as little as you want.
It would help us if you put the wiring diagram you're using up here.... or did I miss that post?
Should be the condenser pack for the iggy system.
OK... just found your diagram in post 129...
LiveSlowDieWhenever
probably broke down. Just call me greasy.
Missing something? I'm not even worrying about lighting right now, just want to sort out ign/charging.. feel like I'm getting close but no cigar just yet **edit missing condensers! Duh... wiring in now
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Here's a little added touch you can do to your wiring that helps keep track of you terminations. Colored heat shrink....
A black wire is now a black/white (B/W). I know Ace hardware has multi-colored packs. I'm sure there's other places.
A black wire is now a black/white (B/W). I know Ace hardware has multi-colored packs. I'm sure there's other places.