Yeah, I miss Robinc. If he were still with us, he'd probably be working on his TX carbs while you're working on yours, and we'd have a severe case of carboholic deja-vu' ...
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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Yeah, I miss Robinc. If he were still with us, he'd probably be working on his TX carbs while you're working on yours, and we'd have a severe case of carboholic deja-vu' ...
Well, I went out to my shop this morning filled with fresh enthusiasm, determined to iron out my cranky carbs.
To begin, I reset my throttle stop screws and air mixture screws to baseline settings, then started my bike.
I got the idle set down low, around 1000 rpm, then tried to get the air mixture screws dialed in. All it wants to do is sputter, miss and pop and die. I tried and tried different settings but no joy. I have no interest in riding it in this condition, I want to figure out what is causing this. I am convinced it has an ongoing problem with the enrichening circuit or the idle circuit. Which leads me to this.
“Hello darkness my old friend, I’ve come to talk to you again.”
I am going to really get aggressive with cleaning out the air and fuel passageways this time. After removing all the jets and breaking down the carbs again. I shot an entire can of carb cleaner through all of the tiny passageways, paying particular attention to the air passages and the mixing screw passages. I would hold a blast of cleaner until I was seeing a liquid jet coming out the other end, then hold it some more.
I also wanted to take the opportunity to double check that all the jets were the correct size....they are.
I also sat down and really looked at my choke plunger, to assess the fit. I believe it fits like it should. It is a pretty close machine fit, you can just barely wiggle it, but if it were any tighter it wouldn’t move up and down easily.
I also wanted to give a close examination to the gasket I made for my choke assembly. Just to make sure I didn’t accidentally cover something I shouldn’t have.
Finally , I also wanted to be as accurate as possible with my bench set up, and make notes on how many turns I made on the throttle stop screws. Using 2Ms reference photo as a guide.
He said that he turned his throttle stop screw 1/2 turn past first contact to begin to expose the first transfer port.
For me to achieve that same exposure it took me 1 1/4 turns.
So the carbs are back together ( AGAIN ) on my bench, waiting to go back on.
I also got the petcocks installed in my XS2 tank today.
And one more thing. Remember when I painted my Motion Pro clutch cable silver, and said how nice it came out.
Well......something weird started happing, after days. The paint started becoming soft and sticky and rubbing off on anything it touched. The paint was clearly reacting to something in the cable sheath, so I removed the cable from the bike, took a rag and some lacquer thinner and cleaned it all off. It’s waiting to be re installed now.
So, I DO NOT RECOMMEND SPRAY PAINTING CABLES.
Until next time, hope springs eternal.
Bob
To begin, I reset my throttle stop screws and air mixture screws to baseline settings, then started my bike.
I got the idle set down low, around 1000 rpm, then tried to get the air mixture screws dialed in. All it wants to do is sputter, miss and pop and die. I tried and tried different settings but no joy. I have no interest in riding it in this condition, I want to figure out what is causing this. I am convinced it has an ongoing problem with the enrichening circuit or the idle circuit. Which leads me to this.
“Hello darkness my old friend, I’ve come to talk to you again.”
I am going to really get aggressive with cleaning out the air and fuel passageways this time. After removing all the jets and breaking down the carbs again. I shot an entire can of carb cleaner through all of the tiny passageways, paying particular attention to the air passages and the mixing screw passages. I would hold a blast of cleaner until I was seeing a liquid jet coming out the other end, then hold it some more.
I also wanted to take the opportunity to double check that all the jets were the correct size....they are.
I also sat down and really looked at my choke plunger, to assess the fit. I believe it fits like it should. It is a pretty close machine fit, you can just barely wiggle it, but if it were any tighter it wouldn’t move up and down easily.
I also wanted to give a close examination to the gasket I made for my choke assembly. Just to make sure I didn’t accidentally cover something I shouldn’t have.
Finally , I also wanted to be as accurate as possible with my bench set up, and make notes on how many turns I made on the throttle stop screws. Using 2Ms reference photo as a guide.
He said that he turned his throttle stop screw 1/2 turn past first contact to begin to expose the first transfer port.
For me to achieve that same exposure it took me 1 1/4 turns.
So the carbs are back together ( AGAIN ) on my bench, waiting to go back on.
I also got the petcocks installed in my XS2 tank today.
And one more thing. Remember when I painted my Motion Pro clutch cable silver, and said how nice it came out.
Well......something weird started happing, after days. The paint started becoming soft and sticky and rubbing off on anything it touched. The paint was clearly reacting to something in the cable sheath, so I removed the cable from the bike, took a rag and some lacquer thinner and cleaned it all off. It’s waiting to be re installed now.
So, I DO NOT RECOMMEND SPRAY PAINTING CABLES.
Until next time, hope springs eternal.
Bob
Mailman
Stop! I'm not kidding when I said to take it for a ride. When I was rebuilding car engines a lot of them ran pretty rough when first started. Get timing set, rough in the carb idle settings and warm it up enough to check for oil and coolant leaks and then drive it. The first test drive was a bit mellow but you wanted to get some heat in the engine and a long decel period on the engine. High vacuum in the combustion chamber helps to seat the rings and gets rid of the assembly fluids. Assembly fluids by nature want to stay around.
Ride the damn thing. Then you will not only feel better but have abetter idea of whats going on.
Stop! I'm not kidding when I said to take it for a ride. When I was rebuilding car engines a lot of them ran pretty rough when first started. Get timing set, rough in the carb idle settings and warm it up enough to check for oil and coolant leaks and then drive it. The first test drive was a bit mellow but you wanted to get some heat in the engine and a long decel period on the engine. High vacuum in the combustion chamber helps to seat the rings and gets rid of the assembly fluids. Assembly fluids by nature want to stay around.
Ride the damn thing. Then you will not only feel better but have abetter idea of whats going on.
Well, Bob. There it is!
It's your pilot jets.
You have the wrong type, missing the side aerator holes, like this.
Also, I've had good luck with "vinyl paint".
Looking for a pic...
It's your pilot jets.
You have the wrong type, missing the side aerator holes, like this.
Also, I've had good luck with "vinyl paint".
Looking for a pic...
Googling "vinyl paint" will get you mucho info and videos.
My old paint was a Napa offering, no longer available.
Looks like better stuff is out there...
http://www.xs650.com/threads/anyone-have-experience-with-sem-vinyl-paint.36819/
My old paint was a Napa offering, no longer available.
Looks like better stuff is out there...
http://www.xs650.com/threads/anyone-have-experience-with-sem-vinyl-paint.36819/
Interesting.
That SEM can doesn't have the bold words "Vinyl paint" on its label.
Must be an industry secret...
That SEM can doesn't have the bold words "Vinyl paint" on its label.
Must be an industry secret...
Thanks for the paint tips guys!
Ok, this is all from the amckayltd files. According to what I’ve read, I’m running the correct pilots, size 42.5
Reading this, says the holes are irrelevant.
Ok, this is all from the amckayltd files. According to what I’ve read, I’m running the correct pilots, size 42.5
Reading this, says the holes are irrelevant.
Actually, it's the same stuff you and Dogbunny were talking about in the link you just put up.
Bob, there's been some clarifications over the years on those jets.
The 76-79 carbs have their aeration premix occurring above the jets, at the top of the bowls, and those VM22/210 jets don't use or need the side aeration holes.
The 70-75 carbs do their aeration premix down in the bowl, alongside the jets, and those BS30/96 jets must have the side holes...
The 76-79 carbs have their aeration premix occurring above the jets, at the top of the bowls, and those VM22/210 jets don't use or need the side aeration holes.
The 70-75 carbs do their aeration premix down in the bowl, alongside the jets, and those BS30/96 jets must have the side holes...
Ok, I’ve been trying to get my head around this. I don’t know what pilot jets to order then. I ordered those pilot jets from Boats.net. They were the jets that were spec’d for my bike. My bike calls for BS30/96 style jets in a 42.5 size
Can I get those with aerator holes?
Huh? I just ran out to my garage and checked the jets that were originally in my carbs. I had a lot of mis matched parts in my carbs. And I ordered all new. I just assumed they were more wrong parts. Maybe I can re use them?
Clean 'em up and give it a shot. Are they both 42.5's?
Look at the last pic in the carb guide. It shows the air passagway angled down towards the center of the pilot. Makes sense that it needs the holes to mix the air.
Very nice! Thank you for sticking with me on this and lending a fresh set of eyes. I hope this is the breakthrough I was looking for! 
My two old jets, one looks pretty good, the other looks kinda worn. But if it can get me going in the meantime, man that would be great. I’ll look into ordering some new ones. Thanks again!
My two old jets, one looks pretty good, the other looks kinda worn. But if it can get me going in the meantime, man that would be great. I’ll look into ordering some new ones. Thanks again!
I got my BS30/96 pilots from Niche Cycles. They came with the air holes (also needed on the BS34 carbs). Quick, cheap delivery.
