My 20+ year project

Sorry Pete my reply got mixed in with the quote.
No tacho on this model Pete, I figured I can just hook up the original for tuning purposes then take off again. I rarely rely on tachos when riding and I'll only be using the XS as a back road tourer so I'll only be plodding along.
Of course that might all change when I get it on the road, the more I work on this old girl the more I seem to be getting away from my original idea and moving to a stock bike.
 
I see - thanks Meddy. I wonder of there would be a way of making work off the ignition?
 
Time for an update.

I have been working on the wiring for the past couple of weeks and just about have it all completed.
I wanted to simplify the electrics as much as possible but still have the bike in a roadworthy condition. (Which,where I live in Victoria means that to get a roadworthy certificate to register the bike all lights that were originally on the bike have to be there and working).
As the original wiring loom was in pretty bad shape I decided to have a go at re-wiring everything from scratch.
Of course this all sounds good when planning a build in your head, but is a lot different when the time comes to actually doing it.
I spent heaps of time studying different wiring diagrams, till I eventually came up with something I wanted which was a bit out of 2 or 3 different ones.
I then broke it up into 3 basic systems, being the Battery, ignition and start system, the charging system and then all the ancillaries like lights and horn.
Breaking everything down like this and then concentrating on just one particular part of that system enabled me to make sense of the electrics and feel confident in what to do, what I needed and how to put it all together.
My other bike is a Harley Davidson Street Glide and I had added a couple of electrical accessories on it using the same connectors as Harley uses as standard. These are known as Deutsch connectors and being impressed with how they went together I decided to use them on the XS.
Here's some in the headlight shell.
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Did I say I wanted to simplify the wiring?
Well I'm not sure about that when you look at this pic.:umm:
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Yeah no matter how I tried I just couldn't seem to get it tidy inside that headlight, but I've still got a couple of things to try.
Here's a couple of pics I took today with it starting to look a little bit neater.
The replacement Bosch RE-55 regulator with the Led indicator flasher unit just above.
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Starting to cover some of the wiring with pvc tubing.
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I like those connectors Mick. Looks like they're waterproof/environmental?
She's coming along nicely!
 
I like those connectors Mick. Looks like they're waterproof/environmental?
She's coming along nicely!

Thanks Jim, Yeah I'm pretty happy with the deutsch connectors they go together nicely once you work out all the components, and yes waterproof, sealed where they join and where the wires enter.
Here's a link to anyone that's interested in them that explains the assembly much better than I can.

https://www.webbikeworld.com/deutsch-connectors-motorcycles/
 
The tank, guards and side covers went off to the painters the other day so I decided to dig out the seat and give it a bit of a clean up before getting it re-covered.
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Now I thought this will be fairly straightforward, just rip the old cover off, a quick run over with the wire brush, a coat of rattle can black and off to the upholsterer.
Hmmm, no such luck, should have known, never assume when renovating anything.


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Still, all I needed was an afternoon with the flappy disk in the angle grinder and an assortment of wire wheels in the drill and I had this.
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I had to do a bit of a repair on the right side front with some 2 part epoxy and some brackets I had, then slop some killrust on ( that's why some parts look dark)
Luckily the foam is in reasonable condition even though it must have been wet through a few times in it's life, and all the tangs that hold the cover on are still there although 2 or 3 were surrounded by rusted holes when I had finished wire brushing.
Just got to prime and paint it now and drop off at the upholsterer next week.
 
Now I thought this will be fairly straightforward....
:rolleyes:....
You might want to consider replacing that foam even though it is OK Mick. It's 40 yrs. old. How much longer 'till it starts breaking down...
 
:rolleyes:....
You might want to consider replacing that foam even though it is OK Mick. It's 40 yrs. old. How much longer 'till it starts breaking down...

Which brings up a good question. Is that something you can do yourself? I have a new seat cover I’m planning to do myself. But I’m not confident in my ability to shape foam. Have you done that before?
 
Looks as though you rescued that seat just in time Meddy!

Yes, I think so Bob, if it had been much more rusty on the right hand side it would have been scrap I think.

You might want to consider replacing that foam even though it is OK Mick. It's 40 yrs. old. How much longer 'till it starts breaking down...
I was wondering about that Jim, I will see what the upholsterer thinks, there is a bloke in the UK that has new seat foam but it works out at about $180.00, for not much more I can get a new seat from "Daytrader-07" on Ebay.
 
I dropped the seat in to the upholsterer earlier this week ,he reckoned the seat foam was fine so that's a relief.
Whilst I was in town I dropped in at the bike shop to ask the mechanic a couple of questions about things I need on the bike to get a roadworthy certificate.

( Just a quick bit of info here, in Victoria when re-registering a vehicle or transferring ownership it has to pass a roadworthy inspection by an authorised person, usually the head mechanic at approved workshops. This is basically a test that all mechanical, lighting and safety systems are working).

I am currently fitting the brakes and before I hooked up the braided lines I got from Banggood I wanted to see what he thought of them, after looking at the one I took with me he said he would not pass it as they have to have a date stamp on the crimp, so now I will have to get some new one's made up here.
Strangely or stupidly or whatever, the original rubber lines that have a date stamp on the crimp from 1978 would still pass as long as there was no leaks.:wtf:

I also asked about how I would go just using one front disc, he asked how many on when new? I say 2, I got the look from him.:(

Needless to say looks like I'm going for the twin discs up front.

So, the caliper I was going to use on the rear, is now going back to the front left where it was supposed to be, and I have started refurbishing another rear caliper that I had.
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That's just an old piston, rubber and bleed valve I chucked in there instead of masking it up.
 
said he would not pass it as they have to have a date stamp on the crimp
Common sense would say that a new one without a stamp is better than an old one with a stamp. Sounds like the babbling of a crazy man....
 
They will pass the old Original rubber hoses no problem even though they are 40 years old. Yamaha recommends they be changed out every 4 years.So where is the logic in that. The braided line is vastly superior in every way. Looks like you have to do what the inspection facility says regardless.
 
Common sense would say that a new one without a stamp is better than an old one with a stamp. Sounds like the babbling of a crazy man....
Yeah It does Jim, but in his defence he has to follow the the rules too, in fact they now take photos when they do the inspection so that if there is a problem later on there is no comeback on them.

Looks like you have to do what the inspection facility says regardless.

Yes Kiwi, bureaucracy at it's best.:banghead:
 
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