help identifing some resistors,

billy icon said:

copy that Jim , I will remove them and check.....

Click to expand...

Just to clarify, you don't have to "remove" them to isolate them. You can just de-solder one end so it's not connected to the rest of the circuit. It's then "isolated" so you can test it as an individual component. For troubleshooting, that's the preferred way of doing it. 50% less work that way.

Getting the order of the color bands is tricky. I could not find Black as a tolerance so assumed the Black to be the first digit.

With the resistance being very small it will be difficult to make a measurement using multimeters.

Color me stupid but why wouldn't he just jumper the circuit (for a few seconds) see if the tool works?
If that works THEN figure that fuse is blown, isolate and test like Jim suggests.
The meatball mechanic.
Cuz when things die you gotta do a cost benefit analysis.
If it's cheap and easy to fix go for it. If it's cost or time prohibitive, you already have it apart for the recycling bin.
Some of my kludge fixes have been soldiering along for decades.

Jim, back in1966 PG rated version was Biloxi beer rots our young guts but vodka goes well. I find my basic electronics training still handy today.

Newagerocker said:

Jim, back in1966 PG rated version was Biloxi beer rots our young guts but vodka goes well. I find my basic electronics training still handy today.

Click to expand...

Keesler?

Jim said:

Keesler?

Click to expand...

Yes, 3386 Student Sq. 304x4 ground radio communication equipment repairman.

Newagerocker said:

Yes, 3386 Student Sq. 304x4 ground radio communication equipment repairman.

Click to expand...

Chanute (now closed) 1972. 3370 Student Sq. 326x2Bravo. instrument and autopilot systems spec.

I did a TDY while with GEEIA at Chanute AFB, installing some equipment for training. Good to hear from another airman.

Here's a chart showing 3, 4, 5, and 6-band resistor markings...

Chanute, with it's Rantoul Ragweed never forget it. We were housed in old WW2 barracks. My room had the $74 hole in the wall. Below the window was a hole big enough to throw a cat through.
I went there for my tech school training. I was an Air Crew Egress Systems Technician.
Ejection seats. I went in on an open electrical and this is what I got. Not to much electronics. An occasional wire for setting off explosive charges.
Leo

billy icon said:

I still haven't quite figured out what steps to take yet, all the reserch I have done I haven't found any resistors that have the "pattern" that these do, with two lines being closer together on one end, and I haven't unsoldered them from the little board yet just because im still trying to figure out what im working with here, resistors? inductors(not sure what an inductor is) or a fuse?
I agree the middle one is a fuse, and I would think the outside ones are resistors because from what I understand this little device controls the amount of juice the computer sees, but I could be wrong,

funny how the few things I have found on the internet say that "guys" have just replaced this, but of course they have no imfo on what it is or where they got the parts, unless they bought the entire set up for 66 dollars, again I didn't even pay that for the tool,
Im not giving up yet, but dang close lol

Click to expand...

billy icon said:

hey everyone, Im curious if anyone might be able to help me identify these resistors,
I am somewhat familiarr with the decoding of them,but these ones are confusing me
this is a part of a tool of mine and according to some guys this is whats wrong with the tool, seems easy enuf to replace and see if it fixes it, (they) say its an inline fuse ,but I believe it to be a resistor to a small computer in the tool,(its a Ryobi brad nailer) cordless, any hooo, if you could help me identify them I would love that,
the colors appear to me to be brown,green gold red black, when I check them with my multi meter there is no resistance atoll... total continuity , Unless I don't understand what scale to use on the meter, it seems some guys online have supposedly replaced this part and it fixed the tool, but no one says how they got the new resistors or where,View attachment 154208

Click to expand...

Okay if I may suggest, First off: Looking at this board and many others like it.... Looking at solder joints, for resistors; R68, R69 , looking at the top "visible" side of board you should notice there is literally no solder (connection) to the pad or "top layer" of board. It may very well be soldered fully bottom side but it is double sided circuit board! Actually the same at both ends of the resistor top side. " If you load the circuit 99% certain it wouldn't work or it will overheat quickly. F1 is correctly found to be Thermal CutOff or "TCO" . Mpn# SDF DF100-S (10A/100c/250v. I can assure you works with digikey#
317-1129-ND. Considering 10A spec. for light tool makes perfect sense it should not likely around half value at most like skill saw for instance.
Resistors may be a hot top topic being the poor markings; I have worked it out previously though anyone is welcome to debate that but the resistor marking should be read as BK, BN, Y , GR, BN. (1.4 K ohm) but what I can tell you I know for fact I have tested NTE# 1W410 (100K Ohm, 1W, 2%). "Works slick no problem! My experience of many, many years; Considering 100c Thermal Cutoff very probable at 100c not much different from body temp, 150c or more Plastic is gonna start baking or melting theoretically. I will check another two Ryobi tools and see if they are not faulty in the same place but the tested working resistors gave me reading 99.8K ohm "each" consistently, but I will post an actual current motor test under load.

billy icon said:

hey everyone, Im curious if anyone might be able to help me identify these resistors,
I am somewhat familiarr with the decoding of them,but these ones are confusing me
this is a part of a tool of mine and according to some guys this is whats wrong with the tool, seems easy enuf to replace and see if it fixes it, (they) say its an inline fuse ,but I believe it to be a resistor to a small computer in the tool,(its a Ryobi brad nailer) cordless, any hooo, if you could help me identify them I would love that,
the colors appear to me to be brown,green gold red black, when I check them with my multi meter there is no resistance atoll... total continuity , Unless I don't understand what scale to use on the meter, it seems some guys online have supposedly replaced this part and it fixed the tool, but no one says how they got the new resistors or where,View attachment 154208

Click to expand...

I agree with shphillips 1.5 ohms, a very common value and normally used as protection in non fused circuits. They can go high but usually will go open circuit. The only way to tell is lifting or cutting one end and measure. Can’t tell the wattage but looks about 2 watts from the picture. They don’t seem stressed ( overheated). Hope this helps.

Interesting that this thread resurfaced after 4.5 years.
I agree, color bands show 1.5 Ohms. Brown = 1, Green = 5, that's 15, gold band multiplier is 0.1 and that makes the total 1.5.
Did we ever get an answer from the OP after he hopefully disconnected one end and measured the resistors?