zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
Thanks for the answers guys, just trying to button up the wiring harness and loose ends. Hopefully I can put the headlamp back on and start connecting the wiring. More to come…...
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zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
Got the wiring in the headlamp buttoned up, put the front fender and wheel back on. Have the left side engine cover to install along with the rider pegs. I was going to paint the tank I recently purchased but will wait till after I get her running. Hope to finish up the carbs but need an exhaust system. I have the right side header but will need the left. If anyone has headers only for sale, drop me a PM.
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zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
Completed a couple of loose ends and mocked up the seat and side covers. Trying to decide on the exhaust, probably going to buy a system from MikesXS, anyone have any feedback about their exhaust? I broke the screw in my rear brake pedal arm, will have to tap it out. Drained the oil and will be add oil and bleeding front brake tomorrow.
The Commando system from Mike's is very nice. Sounds great, looks good, and works well. I prefer the look of an upswept system compared to a straight one .....
A word of caution about your tach cable. You're going to need to cable tie it to the frame or it will drift over and melt against the headpipe. Cable tie it down low, as low as possible .....
A word of caution about your tach cable. You're going to need to cable tie it to the frame or it will drift over and melt against the headpipe. Cable tie it down low, as low as possible .....
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
Thanks for the advice 5twins and the upswept mufflers do look good. How did you get your wheels to look so good?
The wheels are re-spoked and polished. I managed to acquire a few extra wheels over the years which made the job easier. I had wheels to run while I re-did the others, then swapped them in while re-doing the first set. Now I have a second set shod with fresh rubber as spares should I get a flat or need to replace a worn tire.
My second set are actually TX750 wheels. They are a direct bolt-in swap and the rear has a bigger brake drum.
My second set are actually TX750 wheels. They are a direct bolt-in swap and the rear has a bigger brake drum.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
Nicely done on the wheels, did you use a aluminum cleaner on them? I have a set of spokes for both of my stock wheels and will probably break them down. I also purchased a set of mags and will use them while the stock wheels are being cleaned then re-spoked. Lots of work but worth it in the end.
Most of the polished alloy parts on these bikes were polished at the factory then clear coated. You have to strip that clear coat off first (or what remains of it) or you will just be trying to clean and polish paint. You won't be getting to and doing the aluminum for quite some time. It takes much longer. Best to strip the clear coat off first. Just paint stripper does the job.
I used to do a lot of sanding. 320 to remove the heavy corrosion and smooth out nicks or gouges, 400 then 600 to smooth the surface enough for buffing. I don't sand much at all any more. I use Roloc discs in a die grinder instead. The mediums will remove nicks and gouges, the fine any corrosion, and the very fine prep the surface for buffing.
But with rims, you usually still need to do some sanding. Accessing the center areas around the spoke nipples and the "rain gutters" is difficult with powered tools. I can get in there to buff with little buffing wheels on a die grinder, like these .....
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-buffing-kit-43657.html
But the initial clean-up can still be difficult, especially around those "bumps" with the spoke holes in them. But, I just ran across and ordered up a couple of these. I'm hoping they will do the trick .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322008943328?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I used to do a lot of sanding. 320 to remove the heavy corrosion and smooth out nicks or gouges, 400 then 600 to smooth the surface enough for buffing. I don't sand much at all any more. I use Roloc discs in a die grinder instead. The mediums will remove nicks and gouges, the fine any corrosion, and the very fine prep the surface for buffing.
But with rims, you usually still need to do some sanding. Accessing the center areas around the spoke nipples and the "rain gutters" is difficult with powered tools. I can get in there to buff with little buffing wheels on a die grinder, like these .....
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-buffing-kit-43657.html
But the initial clean-up can still be difficult, especially around those "bumps" with the spoke holes in them. But, I just ran across and ordered up a couple of these. I'm hoping they will do the trick .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322008943328?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
I have a question on the clutch operation, the clutch cable assembly inside of the side cover that engages the rod to the transmission, how does the rod engage the clutch cable assembly? Does the operation of the clutch cable assembly move back and forth in order for the rod to move in the tranny to engage the gears? The reason I am asking is that I completed the reinstall of the side cover and the clutch cable assembly is set up proper and is working but when I tried to shift gears it does not? The clutch lever is hard to pull, harder than my HD Road King so is an adjustment needed? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi zeroxs650,
the clutch works like this:-
There's a multi-start threaded thing (It's NOT a worm but that's what they call it) that advances towards the clutch to operate it's push rod.
There's an arm on it that the cable is hooked onto.
The cable moves the arm through about 1/6th of a turn which moves the "worm" forward which opens the clutch.
(there's photos on this list)
The XS650 clutch is NOT an "easy pull"
Work on the cable.
New (or at least in good shape) clean & lubricated?
Run with the least amount of sharp turns and direction changes?
Buy one of those spring loaded wrist exercisers?
There are ball bearings in the push rod assembly and in the "worm gear" that need to be there to have the correct length of the rod in order to correctly push out the clutch plates. Check inside the worm gear (from the inside...there should be a ball bearing in there (usually covered in a goop of grease)..but could have fallen out when you removed the cover.
There's a couple of threads that discuss clutch adjustments, etc. Do a search and you'll find a ton of info.
As Fred mentioned, the cable needs to clean/lubed and be a gradual series of sweeping bends to help with pull resistance.
There's a couple of threads that discuss clutch adjustments, etc. Do a search and you'll find a ton of info.
As Fred mentioned, the cable needs to clean/lubed and be a gradual series of sweeping bends to help with pull resistance.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
My wife and I just got back from our trip from Florida. We brought our regular rides back to Pennsylvania for the summer. Great ride through the Smoky Mts. and we stopped by Wheels Through time in Maggie Valley. I enjoyed anything that has a combustible motor and this place has all pre war motorcycles that actually run. When we left we asked Dale, the owner, about how to get back on 81N to head back home and he suggested a leisurely ride through the Smokeys. Well, it was all that and more, the road was called The Rattler,
http://www.209therattler.com, over 234 twists and turns. Great ride and the bikes handle the ride well. Anyone going through the area should take the opportunity to take the ride. Well, I will be back on the build today and have a couple of questions, Do I need a gasket sealer for the gaskets for the carbs? Also, I am thinking about purchasing a non vacuum fuel petcock from MikesXS, will it fit a 81 fuel tank? I am thinking that they are replacements for the years that it states and not for the 81 tank. More to come….
http://www.209therattler.com, over 234 twists and turns. Great ride and the bikes handle the ride well. Anyone going through the area should take the opportunity to take the ride. Well, I will be back on the build today and have a couple of questions, Do I need a gasket sealer for the gaskets for the carbs? Also, I am thinking about purchasing a non vacuum fuel petcock from MikesXS, will it fit a 81 fuel tank? I am thinking that they are replacements for the years that it states and not for the 81 tank. More to come….
No gasket sealer on carb gaskets. I wet them down with some light lube like WD40. I don't know what petcock you're looking at but the one I see listed on Mike's says it is for '78-'84. To be sure, check the center-to-center distance on your mounting screws. Mike's says theirs is 46mm. It is part #20-0019.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
I am using an 81 Special tank with the petcock that came with it so I would presume that the part number you listed 5twin should work, thanks.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
I had a chance to work on my ride, removed the rear wheel and fender, cleaning up rusted parts and noticed that the wheel adjuster space has a top/bottom difference in the size (see pencil location) Can someone tell me how it would go back together, thicker size on top or bottom?
I don't think I ever noticed that and it probably doesn't make any difference. Those are just stops for the rearward travel of the axle in it's slot. It shouldn't get that far back anyway. You should be replacing the chain before it does.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
Thanks 5twins for the reply.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
I am attempting to bleed my front brake and seem to have difficulty. I followed the instructions on the "How to Bleed Brakes" post and it appears the fluid is not traveling through the tube that goes from the bleeder valve to the bottle filled with brake fluid. What would cause this? I had taken the brake lines off and I had some brake fluid leakage and reinstalled with new copper washers. The reservoir was empty at that time. Any help in the matter would be greatly appreciated.
It may take a while before you see any fluid down at the bleed nipple if you had the system completely drained and dry. I use one of those vacuum pumps (MityVac) to get a drained system re-filled, then switch to the normal old fashioned hand (pump the lever) bleeding.
zeroxs650
XS650 Addict
I watched a video showing how to fill the brake fluid in reverse using a syringe to back flow the fluid. Have you tried this?
