1977 XS650 Build

zeroxs650 said:


I had a chance to work on my ride, removed the rear wheel and fender, cleaning up rusted parts and noticed that the wheel adjuster space has a top/bottom difference in the size (see pencil location) Can someone tell me how it would go back together, thicker size on top or bottom?
Click to expand...

If the part is not symmetrical it's that way for a reason, indicating that it should be installed in a certain orientation. However, I can't find anywhere that Yamaha specifies this. The drawing from the parts list could (imho) be interpreted to install them with the "thicker" edge down. (Flip your photo 180)
But I don't know, I've worked on a lot of bikes but I'm on my first XS650 so it's just my opinion.
 

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Some of the tricks that I've done from time to time:

With the system buttoned up, and reservoir full, as well as a clear 1/4" hose on the bleeder valve looped up over the front fairing then back down to a catch receptacle...try the following:

4-5 small pumps with the lever and then hold it down. You may or may not see bubbles come up in the reservoir. If so, repeat until all the bubbles go away. Now do the same, but this time when holding down the lever, open the bleeder valve a half turn until either bubbles or fluid starts to flow up the hose. Close valve, release lever and repeat... if nothing comes out, repeat the above again....at some point, you will get fluid...sometimes it just takes a long while.

If you aren't getting anything at the bleeder valve and you've been pumping the lever for a while (20 min?)... and you don't have a syringe to back fill the caliper's bleeder valve, then you can simply do it this way: open the bleeder valve and add a few mL's of brake fluid into the end of the hose (Assuming there's nothing in there)... enough so that you have about 6 inches of fluid above the bleeder valve. Now with the valve open, clean the end and blow into the hose as hard as you can...you may not get a whole lot of fluid to push back in...but it only take a few ounces...just don't let all the fluid go back in or you're adding air to the line. Now close the valve...and do the small pumps and hold with the lever thing...you may notice more air bubbles in the reservoir again...if not, that's ok, because hopefully now you've moved the bubbles up the line some and when you press/hold the lever and open the valve, you should get fluid to come out...

Repeat small pumps/hold open valve wait for bubbles/close valve release lever until all the bubbles are out of the line...you may have the entire hose filled with fluid by the time all the bubbles are out.

I just did this the other day (New MC)...and I always feel like it won't work until all of a sudden, it does. :)
 
I had worked on the XS today and completed the rear fender paint and put rear of the bike back together. I put the stock laced wheels back on while the mags are at the powdercoater. I am looking to get the bike running by the end of the week. I need help with hooking up the fuel lines to the tank. Currently I have the thick black lines and I would like to get fuel lines that are thinner. I purchased 1/4" fuel line but it will not over the carb fittings. Does anyone have a resource where to purchase that type of fuel line?
 
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zeroxs650 said:
...I need help with hooking up the fuel lines to the tank. Currently I have the thick black lines and I would like to get fuel lines that are thinner.

I purchased 1/4" fuel line but it will not over the fittings. <== ???

Does anyone have a resource where to purchase that type of fuel line?
Click to expand...

Is a word missing there?
Try Tygon fuel line.
 
Sorry Twomany, grammatical error on my part. Let me check that type of fuel line, when you order do you know if you would need to order my inside diameter? If so, what resource could give me that info?
And cycleranger, thanks for the link.
 
Here is a few pictures of where my bike currently stands:
IMG_1278_zpszqef5isq.jpg

IMG_1273_zpsgsb8ujqm.jpg

IMG_1274_zpslmil9rb7.jpg

3d6814d6-3e61-49ab-bb7d-587a2828d159_zpsgij83nh8.jpg


Need to hook up fuel lines to tank, add mufflers, add oil and battery and get the front brake operational.
 
zeroxs650 said:
Sorry Twomany, grammatical error on my part. Let me check that type of fuel line, when you order do you know if you would need to order my inside diameter? If so, what resource could give me that info?
And cycleranger, thanks for the link.
Click to expand...

Try your local small engine shops. IME they are cheaper than ordering online.
If you order online make sure you order fuel and lubricant line.
 
My system is actually put together from different manufacturer's parts. My headpipes are MACs and the mufflers are the Commandos. It wasn't a complete system. I had the headpipes first for a couple years and used other mufflers (Dunstall replicas). Eventually, I got the Commando mufflers.
 
You have one of my favorite front tires on your bike. If it's in any kind of good shape, I'd use it up. They don't make it any more.
 
I finally finished with putting the bike together, installed mufflers, added oil, and fresh battery, tightened all nuts and bolts. The bike's starter did engage but I could not get it to start. Appears I ran the battery down so I recharged the battery on a tender for a day and now it won't start. Put it on a battery charger and now it has approximately 13Volts. I know the Yamaha's are known for not starting if the battery is low, could that have been the issue after I charged it on a battery tender? If and when I get the start engaged again I want to check the spark plugs for spark. If there is no spark, would I go and test the coils next? Then I want to check the carbs to make sure it is getting fuel, can I take the air pods off and use starter fluid to see if it starts? When does the headlamp come on after it is running?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
zeroxs650 said:
I know the Yamaha's are known for not starting if the battery is low, could that have been the issue after I charged it on a battery tender?
Click to expand...
Could be...and some will say even a new battery could be bad out of the box, but that's not where I'd go first. Did you try to kick it over as well? Unless it was REALLY low, it should want to turn over with kicking...I'd suspect something else if it doesn't want to start with a full battery.

zeroxs650 said:
If and when I get the start engaged again I want to check the spark plugs for spark. If there is no spark, would I go and test the coils next?
Click to expand...
I'd check the points first...make sure they are shiny and clean/gap set correctly. After that, then the coils, etc.

zeroxs650 said:
Then I want to check the carbs to make sure it is getting fuel, can I take the air pods off and use starter fluid to see if it starts?
Click to expand...
You could take the plugs out and see if they are wet with fuel... Yes you can use starting fluid if you are getting spark...that should get the bike to fire, assuming timing, etc. is correct. When you tried to start it, did you prime the carbs? If they've been empty, you should turn the petcock to pri to fill the bowls...then I'd kick it a few times before going with the e-starter.

zeroxs650 said:
When does the headlamp come on after it is running?
Click to expand...
I can't recall exactly, but I think for the '77 the headlight comes on when running...or turns over at least. It does for the '78/79.
 

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