1977 XS650 Build

Got to work on my ride, started to prime parts that will need painted before re-intalling, motor mount, bolts, front fender. Removing the front end for cleaning, had to label each wire from the wiring harness inside the headlamp bucket so I can put it back together properly. I am still trying to decide whether to install the XS750 tank in place of the stock one. Don't know that I want to modify the frame. Ordered a bunch of parts from Mikes XS. I am trying to keep the cost under my $1000 budget. Heading to Florida this weekend, going to Daytona Bike Week. More to come…..
 
Haven't posted lately, working on the ride. I've been pulling off rusted parts/nuts/bolts to clean and clear coat. Also been working on painting my front fender, which is chrome. Had to scuff, use etch primer before painting. Looking to do a black/gold combo with a grey pinstripe. Also painting the points (black) and valve adjustment covers (gold). Got parts in to start putting the handlebar and front gauges back on. What to do the bike in stages so i don't forget how to put it back together properly. Still undecided which fuel tank I want to use, stock or the 750 tank. Will post pictures soon to show progress.
 
I've been getting most of the tins ready for paint, stripping and grinding. Here a picture of the front fender. Took me two tries to get it done, not bad for rattle can. Will wait a couple of days before I clear coat. Will move on to the side covers and tank.

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Thanks, some of the edges are not as smooth as I would like but what can you expect from an novice and rattle can. Now that I got my feet wet, I will do the side covers next before moving on to the tank.
 
I started to put the front end components back on, speedo and tack, headlamp arms, new handlebars. and freshly painted top motor mount. Clear coated the front fender and will wet sand and apply another coat tomorrow. I do have a question, I purchased the rubber dampers that go in the stock pegs and I am having difficulty getting them installed. I microwaved a cup of water and let me stand for a couple of minutes to make them more plyable but damn if I can get them in the peg holes. Does anyone have a trick to installing them?
Here is a couple of pictures:
 
Hi zerox,
They hafta be fitted into the footpeg before the footpeg is placed onto the studs.
I doubt they'll want to go in without being lubricated.
I'd suggest you slather them with Armorall.
Don't use Armorall to install handlebar grip though.
It just keeps on working in that application and the grips will slide right off again.
WD40 is your friend for that. The grips slide right on with WD40 but 24 hours later they are on solid.
 
Got the controls installed on the new bars. Have a question, can someone tell me how to route the clutch and throttle cables? If you could take a picture of your ride I would appreciate it. Also, the trouble I am having with installing the dampers for the foot pegs, I was sent the incorrect item. Thought I was going crazy thinking they can't be that hard to install.
IMG_1143_zpsw2qk67vj.jpg

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You're going to need to change the original cable routing up around the steering neck and instruments to help absorb some of the extra length generated by the lower bars. Originally, the clutch cable routed down the left side of the steering neck, the throttle cable down the right. Flip-flop this, running the clutch down the right and throttle down the left .....

CableRouting.jpg


Run the clutch cable up, over, and past the instruments, not down into that little space behind the ignition switch like you have it now. Also of note, the handlebar control wiring looms. Run them behind and under the top tree. Don't try to cram them down through the limited space in front of the tree. Properly done, the clutch cable will route nicely down the right side of the frame, ducked under the gas tank puck holder .....

ClutchCableRoute2.jpg


Also of note above is the "sling" for supporting the main wiring harness just ahead of the tank puck holder. If not supported, it will constantly pull itself out of the headlight bucket. There is a small hole through the gusset plate on both sides. Two cable ties fed through side by side and connected around the harness on each side will create the support "sling". Adjust the tightness so the looms pull up under the tank puck holders .....

 
I finished painting the side covers, not bad for rattle can. I add some texture to the paint by putting saran wrap over the fresh paint then peeled it off. Need to clear coat then moving on to the fuel tank. I removed the carbs to clean the rusty parts, appears they are in good shape. Is there anything I should look for with the carbs to ensure they are in good operating order?
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Carbs:
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Since you have the carbs off. Check float height, check jet sizing and clean, check the starter circuit feed jet in the float bowl for blockage.
 
I notice the plastic limiting caps are still in place on your mix screws. You'll want to remove them so you have full adjustability on the screws. They just pop off. Also, note the length of the carb top screws. The longer ones go where brackets are installed. Yamaha cheaped out though and shorted you one long screw. They only used 4 but should have had 5.
 
I am working on my ride and have several questions:
I found what appears to be a ground cable on my bike lift. I am speculating that when I removed the top motor mount it must have fell off. Can someone verify where this is attached from/to?
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I found this unused plug near the coils, I am speculating that it is the plug for the horn. Can someone verify this?
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I remove the carbs and intake holders and cleaned the clamp and metal mount due to the rusting. I separated each component into a labeled baggie but when I was putting the intake together I noticed that it did not fit. I saw that the rubber mount is tapered and before I knew it I but both together and can't determine which goes on the right or left side. Can someone verify if the taper side (short side of the rubber mount) goes towards the inside of the engine or towards the outside?
I appreciate any feedback that anyone can provide.
 
Yes, that is the engine ground wire. The small eye goes on one of the condenser pack mounting screws under the left side top engine mount. The large eye connects to the front top engine bolt, under the mounting bracket, on the right side .....

EngineGround.jpg


Yes, that unused plug is for the horn.

I think the manifolds go short side in and angled up. Hold them both up to the motor in various positions. You want them mounted so they point straight back, parallel to one another. They need to be parallel because the carbs are bolted together like that.
 

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