1982 XS650 dies, no power

[Jake2345]

Hi guys, so my 82 is giving me a bit of trouble...

So pretty much in the beginning I would be riding along and the bike would die, or I would be at a stop and the bike would "shut off" as I would say...but in reality the battery wouldn't be able to keep a charge, so I change the Regulator rectifier, and put a new battery in it. Seemed to help for maybe two days then it started acting up again, so the guy who is working on my bike put a different set of brushes in. Again seemed to help, haven't had any trouble...til now. Took the bike out for a ride with my dad and the bike was just gutless, no power off the line or in any RPM range, and then died on me...so now I'm at loss.
So far I have had the carbs rebuilt, they do need to be rejetted but at low RPMs I don't lack power like I did today, I put the new Reg-rack in, and different brushes.
I'm at a loss guys any help would be awesome...I want this to be my daily rider
Cheers
Jake

 

[CDNTX650]

Have you used a multimeter to see what the charging voltage is at around 3000 rpm.

 

[NONclow]

Ground connection(s) condition?
Fuse holder(s), flat style? Or the round style that overheat and loose tension on fuse?

 

[Jake2345]

When I picked up the bike the guy who had worked on the bike did a test, now I don't remember what exactly it was reading, but it was fine, the battery was charging at 14.2 volts(?). I'm sorry its been awhile since it was tested

 

[Jake2345]

The fuses are original style, haven't been changed or touched.

 

[Jake2345]

Its the round style fuses.

 

[retiredgentleman]

The fuses are original style, haven't been changed or touched.

I recommend you get rid of the original fuse panel. It may or may not be the main problem, but those panels can cause lots of intermittant things to happen i.e. low voltage to ignition, etc.

Many of us use automotive blade type fuse holders. They are 100% reliable.

 

[Jake2345]

Ok, would that also cause the crappy acceleration? Next to nothing for power? Like I've had the low charge issue, but never this, its like the bike is got gummed up carbs again....

 

[retiredgentleman]

Ok, would that also cause the crappy acceleration? Next to nothing for power? Like I've had the low charge issue, but never this, its like the bike is got gummed up carbs again....

The old fuse panels can cause voltage drops to the ignition, which means the engine would run like crap and die easily..

You may have several problems. Why are your carbs "gumming" up? Do you have rust in the gas tank? Do you use an inline fuel filter?

You should use a VOM to measure the battery voltage with the engine running.Start the engine and wait a few minutes, then measure the voltage. Measure at 1200 rpm and at 3000 to 3500 rpm. These bikes don't like low voltage.

You need to see 13 volts at 1200, and 14 volts at >3000 rpm.

 

[Jake2345]

Ok, thank you, and no I don't have rust in the gas tank, but that's how it feels...I'll give it a try and see what I get back, thank you for your assistance

 

[tonyc]

also have a look at the coils.

Posted via Mobile

 

[Jake2345]

I'm thinking I might buy a set and change them and the plugs. I did the plugs just after I got the bike...anyways it never hurts!

 

[retiredgentleman]

I'm thinking I might buy a set and change them and the plugs. I did the plugs just after I got the bike...anyways it never hurts!

"buy a set" ?...............1982 only had one coil.

Spark plugs last a long time on these bikes. I sense you have only had the bike for a short time, so the plugs should look like new, unless your mixture is not correct, or you're burning oil.

Pull the plugs and take a look...................they can speak volumes.

 

[chizler62]

Dog food in the air box?
mouse nest in the exhaust?
Is there any popping or cracking while rolling off the throttle? It's cold out now and that'd indicate a lean misfire. Which could be caused by carb issues.

If I put this on my lift....
Check plugs? Wet, brown, white, carbon?
Check air box, exhaust for any mice nest etc
Check yellow wire connector off stator. Melted?
Close petcock, Drain each carb into a spray can top and look for debris.
Lightly tap each carb bowl from the side while empty. Then turn petcock on for a second t let fuel run out of drain while lightly tapping bowl.
Make sure battery is at least 12 plus and isn't dry.
Check voltage at coil. No or low voltage then you back track.

Starts fine, Idles fine? Bogs when you give it throttle is a fuel issue.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

You can also use the forum's Google search box above, and type in "rare earth magnet". See if any of the threads sound familiar...

 

[Jake2345]

Ive had the bike since mid august. And to answer your question i pulled the plugs and got new ones...needless to say one was still in decent shape, was a bit black on the end but not bad. The other one was all out black and crap. I replaced them both. I bought a second set just in case but im wondering if buying a new coil would be worth it? Just on case sorta thing

 

[NONclow]

im wondering if buying a new coil would be worth it? Just on case sorta thing

FWIW Hows about buying some flat style auto fuses that match the amperage of the old ones, and a box of spade connectors (pic). Get rid of the fuse box (cut just the brass connectors off of the ends to have enough wire to work with), and temporarily replace them all for testing purposes at this time.....

....alot cheaper than a new coil.......if ya don't need it right now.....

 

[NONclow]

Then you could finish the job with something like this:

 

[retiredgentleman]

Ive had the bike since mid august. And to answer your question i pulled the plugs and got new ones...needless to say one was still in decent shape, was a bit black on the end but not bad. The other one was all out black and crap. I replaced them both. I bought a second set just in case but im wondering if buying a new coil would be worth it? Just on case sorta thing

The black plug is telling you something. Your fuel/air mixture is not correct.........................look in the "Tech" section and find the "Carb Guide". Read everything about your carbs, so you understand how the carbs work.
You will need to take the carbs apart, so you better read up on how to do that. Use the Custom Google Search at top of page.

Your first priority should be to do the voltage checks that I suggested in post #9.

Get your carbs working properly and you'll only need one set of plugs.

Don't waste money guessing at what parts you might need. That is expensive and solves nothing.

 

[gggGary]

I feel like the chorus but on BS34s pull the float valve bodies check/ change the o-rings, look at and clean the fuel filter screens that are attached to the factory float valve bodies. If it hasn't been done, replace the fuel lines. Old fuel lines get hard and shed slivers of rubber fuggling the float valve action. If you still have the vacuum petcock, check for the petcock diaphragm leaking. Check vacuum lines and or the vacuum cap on the LH intake. What air filters are you using? the stockers turn to mush and shed gunk into the carbs. Report back what you find?

Making a daily rider out of ANY old motorcycle involves a thorough going through of every system. Fuel, electrical, BRAKES! 30 year old parts are old and trouble prone. Trouble shooting, repair is SO much easier in a heated, well lit garage with tools.