Nope. Not enough to worry about anyway.
I've reused worse than that. Might weep some... might not.
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22's 1980 xs650 build thread
- Thread starter Twenty2
- Start date
Are you familiar with the proper method for installing the swingarm? You want to torque the bolt just tight enough for the bare swingarm to gently fall under it's own weight. To do that, you need a torque spec range to work within. Unfortunately, the later shop manuals give the swingarm bolt torque value as a single number (47 ft/lbs I think), so that won't do. Instead, follow the torque value range given in the '77 torque chart. This is about the best torque value chart I've run across because all values are given as "ranges" .....
So, start at the minimum value, around 36 ft/lbs, and increase it a couple pounds at a time until the arm drops gently under it's own weight. I think the last one I did took around 45 ft/lbs.
I torqued the swingarm down tonight, I stopped at 38 ft/lbs, if I put the swingarm to the top it stays there, if I lower it a few inches it falls slowly, initially it wasn't falling till it was parallel with the ground but after moving it a bit it now falls once I lower it a few inches from the top, does this sound good?
Added some grease and got it to 39ft/lbs.
I'm not overly familiar with shocks at all, can someone please have a look at these and let me know what they think? I know koni's are good but how does the condition of these look? Also, can someone help me with the spring adjustment? I don't have the adjustment wrench so hoping there's a work around if need be.
I'm not overly familiar with shocks at all, can someone please have a look at these and let me know what they think? I know koni's are good but how does the condition of these look? Also, can someone help me with the spring adjustment? I don't have the adjustment wrench so hoping there's a work around if need be.
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Yes, Konis are pretty good shocks. To adjust the spring, you need a hook spanner. I got a couple off eBay for doing my steering bearing adjustments and they'll fit a shock as well .....
I tried one on some Konis I have like yours and this 45-52mm size seems to fit pretty good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202802556423?hash=item2f37f96e07:g:RCEAAOSwvfRdqZ9T
Your springs look pretty beefy, and they're set on the stiffest setting. The P.O. must have been a really big guy, lol. Konis also have adjustable damping but you must remove the spring to do it .....
I tried one on some Konis I have like yours and this 45-52mm size seems to fit pretty good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202802556423?hash=item2f37f96e07:g:RCEAAOSwvfRdqZ9T
Your springs look pretty beefy, and they're set on the stiffest setting. The P.O. must have been a really big guy, lol. Konis also have adjustable damping but you must remove the spring to do it .....
Thanks, I took another look at them last night and I easily just turned the adjustment with my hand, it was all real loose. I moved it to a softer position and the spring then seemed to short, I was easily able to remove the top clip and take the spring off, I then removed the plastic sleeve and found out these are model 76F-1250. I put them back together and back on the bike but I'm really questioning the condition of these shocks and wondering if it's possible the spring is too short? One of the eyes is a bit bent too, I really think ill try to source a new pair unfortunately or put the stock KYB's back on.Yes, Konis are pretty good shocks. To adjust the spring, you need a hook spanner. I got a couple off eBay for doing my steering bearing adjustments and they'll fit a shock as well .....
I tried one on some Konis I have like yours and this 45-52mm size seems to fit pretty good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202802556423?hash=item2f37f96e07:g:RCEAAOSwvfRdqZ9T
Your springs look pretty beefy, and they're set on the stiffest setting. The P.O. must have been a really big guy, lol. Konis also have adjustable damping but you must remove the spring to do it .....
Yes, the springs are probably too short. The 1250 shock calls for springs 9.45" to 9.65" long. The eye to eye length on the 1250 is 12.5". It will work on a 650 but something a bit longer (around 13") is better. It looks like the top eyes may have been changed. Mine are like the ones pictured in the instructions above, black painted steel. Yours look like alloy. As long as the seals aren't leaking, the shocks are probably still good, just not ideally suited for the 650 (length too short). Do the spring retaining rings have "Koni" stamped on them? Originals would.
Cafe Murdock
Murdock
Hey 5twins should my points b gettin power with key off i dont belive they should but are
Cafe Murdock
Murdock
Like the spark if u arch the across anything or wen they open or close
No they shouldn't have power with the key off, and this is something you need to address right away or you may burn out a coil. Normally, when running, the coil charges up for the next spark when the points are closed. It only does this for a fraction of a second, then releases that built up charge when it sparks the next time. With power to the points and not running, if a points set is closed, it's coil will keep charging, and charging, and charging. It will get really hot and could burn out.
Cafe Murdock
Murdock
I unpluged my key ignition switch completly from my harness took the key totallyoutnof the equasion n still it is tryin to start
Cafe Murdock
Murdock
Cafe Murdock
Murdock
And. Ive been settin here crankin on the bikenfor a bit
I found a pair of new Hagon's that someone is selling the model number is 34003SS, any thoughts on these? Apparently they are 340mm eye to eye which seems just about perfect. Here is a link to a random site I found with the specs:Yes, the springs are probably too short. The 1250 shock calls for springs 9.45" to 9.65" long. The eye to eye length on the 1250 is 12.5". It will work on a 650 but something a bit longer (around 13") is better. It looks like the top eyes may have been changed. Mine are like the ones pictured in the instructions above, black painted steel. Yours look like alloy. As long as the seals aren't leaking, the shocks are probably still good, just not ideally suited for the 650 (length too short). Do the spring retaining rings have "Koni" stamped on them? Originals would.
https://www.omniaracing.net/en/pair...-for-triumph-x75-hurricane-1973-p-133313.html
He's asking $300 CAD. Would these work?
Unfortunately eBay is tough in Canada because everything is shipped from the US and the exchange rate + the shipping makes things tough so I have limited options for convenient used sets.
Hagons are supposed to be good shocks. Yes, that 340mm length (about 13 3/8") would be perfect.
Don't throw those Konis out, lol. With a change of springs and maybe the correct top eyes, they could be made into a nice set of shocks. I run old Konis on most all my bikes.
Don't throw those Konis out, lol. With a change of springs and maybe the correct top eyes, they could be made into a nice set of shocks. I run old Konis on most all my bikes.
Perfect, thanks, I'm holding off on the shocks for a bit and will watch for a good used set to come up. In the meantime I got back to the carbs, everything went fairly smoothly, however the float heights are reading about 23.5mm, a bit higher then ideal. I'll be installing 1.5" commandos from 650direct with the stock headers and airboxes, should I go up to a 135 main or a 137.5 main? Eventually I'll put on uni filters in which case I'll increase the pilots by 1 or 2 sizes as well.
While reinstalling the choke I noticed a couple things, first there are 3 indents, I'm assuming the middle one was added for some reason? I also noticed that the choke rod is bent near the knob, is this how they came or is it possible this was done on purpose?
I also cleaned up the corroded battery box area, not perfect but much better!
While reinstalling the choke I noticed a couple things, first there are 3 indents, I'm assuming the middle one was added for some reason? I also noticed that the choke rod is bent near the knob, is this how they came or is it possible this was done on purpose?
I also cleaned up the corroded battery box area, not perfect but much better!
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What kind of floats do you have, brass or plastic? The setting spec differs for each, and your 23.5mm setting is pretty far off from both, lol. Stock, a 1980 carb set would come with brass floats, but someone could have swapped plastic ones in. The setting spec for the brass floats is 27.3mm ± .5mm, and for the plastic floats, it's 22mm ± 1mm. Depending on which type of float you have, your 23.5mm setting will make the fuel level too high (brass float) or too low (plastic float). The float level being off can make the bike run rich (too high) or lean (too low). I'd say it's best you revisit the floats and set them correctly. No sense trying to re-jet and tune the carbs with the float levels messed up like that.
Is your bike a Canadian bike with the Canadian carbs? I ask because if it is, it should have an adjustable needle and may be jetted slightly different than the U.S. models. Here in the States, our BS34s came with a fixed (non-adjustable) needle, 132.5 mains, and 135 air jets. Yours may have 130 mains and 130 air jets. You'll need to check that. The re-jetting changes needed will probably be the same as far as number of size change, just the size may differ depending on what you've got to start. For just the mufflers, one up on the mains would probably be good. Once you add pod filters, two up on the mains would probably be good, along with a step up one on the pilots.
I also play around with the pilot air jet size, reducing it 2 if I don't change the pilot, only one if I do. You may not need to do anything with yours if it already has a 130 in it.
Is your bike a Canadian bike with the Canadian carbs? I ask because if it is, it should have an adjustable needle and may be jetted slightly different than the U.S. models. Here in the States, our BS34s came with a fixed (non-adjustable) needle, 132.5 mains, and 135 air jets. Yours may have 130 mains and 130 air jets. You'll need to check that. The re-jetting changes needed will probably be the same as far as number of size change, just the size may differ depending on what you've got to start. For just the mufflers, one up on the mains would probably be good. Once you add pod filters, two up on the mains would probably be good, along with a step up one on the pilots.
I also play around with the pilot air jet size, reducing it 2 if I don't change the pilot, only one if I do. You may not need to do anything with yours if it already has a 130 in it.
Hi 22,
the M14-threaded end of the stock swingarm through-bolt has a nasty habit of breaking off.
Happened to my Heritage special twice.
First time; it fell out on the street when the bike was at highway speed,
My son's off-road riding skills let him keep the bike upright as it skidded to a stop at the end a black streak of tire rubber.
Far less drama the second time as the bike was parked at home,
I noticed that the replacement stock through-bolt's threaded end was missing and it's headed end was hanging part-way out,
That's when I swapped in the M16 ended Suzuki through-bolt that's been there ever since.
These days you don't need to find a used Suzuki part because 650direct stocks an M16 ended through-bolt.
Thanks! that's great to know and definitely confirms the money I spent on a new one from 650direct was worth it, I was hesitant because my original one was in decent shape but I swapped in the new one anyways and it sounds like a good thing that I did.
