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70-83 Gauge Repair - Bezel removal - DIY Damper Replacement - Replace Face Decals

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 650Skull, May 6, 2018.

  1. 74-83 Bezel removal
    1
    This should be done on a soft surface so no damage will be done to the paint or metal ring. I used a folder that had a lot of paper work in it......This Bezel has been removed and reinstalled using this procedure.
    1.JPG

    2 before i started the second....3 a comparison of before and after...4 bend a screwdriver
    2 before i started the second.JPG ...... 3 a comparison of before and after.JPG ............... 4 bend a screwdriver.JPG

    5 Using the screwdriver gently...pries the lip. NOTE: Do not try to pries open to much or you stretch the metal and it can't be returned in a neat fashion
    5 Using the screwdriver gently pries the lip. Do not try to pries fully off. .jpg

    6 Gently go around the gauge, (Note: but not the full way around leave an inch or so as in Pic #10). The lip is stretched so gentle small increments does the least damage and is easier to reinstall
    6.JPG

    7 Gently Bentley..............................8 the lip is getting to the fully opened stage
    7 Gently Bentley.JPG .......... 8 the lip is getting to the fully opened stage.JPG

    9 What the lip looks like when it is ready to slip off
    9 What the lip looks like when it is ready to slip off.JPG

    10 Leave a small piece of the lip not pried at all to help with the tension when reinstalling and tapping back down........Need to wiggle a bit to get off and when reinstalling
    10.JPG

    11 Using the screwdriver gently insert under the ring and lever against the plastic case. If the ring has not been pried open enough it will be hard to slip of........Don't force it may need to do some extra stretching......When at this stage it is surprising how much leverage is needed to get that extra stretch out of the lip
    11.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
    gggGary, Mailman and MrBultaco like this.
  2. 12 slips off easy.........................13 get familiar with the order of the parts in the ring
    12 slips off easy.JPG 13 get familiar with the order of the parts in the ring.JPG

    14 some work i done................15 Parts in order
    14 some work i done.JPG 15  Parts in order.JPG

    NOTE: Before Reassembling... I super-glued the metal casings to the housing that the gauge lights use as a reflector.

    NOTE: ......On the 74/75 Gauges i think the reflectors are paper of some kind

    Example only showing the reflectors........../NOTE: 74/75 Speedo/Rev Counter Case. These
    This is a 76 speedo Case........................../are metal but the same Principal applies
    Photo110.jpg ......................... s-l1600 b.jpg

    16 When reassembling slip the lip if the case into the area that has not been stretched ....
    16.JPG ......

    17 pushing hard down on the corner with one hand use the thumb of your other to pries the plastic case into the metal ring. There is some flex in the plastic cup.

    18.JPG

    18 Almost there, just a bit more push and pull..........19 Back on

    19  Almost there, just a bit more push and pull.JPG ....................................... 20  Back on.JPG

    20 I used a small 38th screwdriver type drive from a socket set and at a steep angle, as close to the original bend as possible and pushing down with the hand and holding the Drive gently tap the edge of the bezel......As when taking it of ..........do a small increment at a time and several passes

    21.JPG

    21 On each pass i slowly straightened the 38th drive till i was vertical and the lip is fully re positioned as in pic 1
    22.JPG

    Aftermarket/Home made Rubber Damper Replacement.
    Rubber from Rubber Factory.
    Tools used........Sharp Blade from a box cutter
    IMG_0057.JPG


    Dismantle the cup from the Case
    P1000289.JPG P1000290.JPG P1000295.JPG


    Factory Damper
    76-78 Damper 2.png

    Rubber from a rubber factory that supplies all rubbers and seals for cars/trucks ect..........The damper rubber is 5mm thick...............Note; i glued the 2 ends with a bit of superglue. Don't glue across all of the face, leave a small bit, 1-2mm at each edge so the damper is soft. This allows the damper to squeeze when assembling.....Also assemble the join so it is at the base of the Gauge when mounted
    76-83 Damper 3.png
    Cut Should be no more than 2mm deep. Width between cup and Bezel should be 6mm. I made mine wider, (8mm, ) 2mm more than the Factory Damper, (6mm) Although it still worked it should have been narrower than 8mm because it puts just a bit to much pressure on the gauge/cup attachment nut........... The line is a bit rougho_O so make sure you do a better job:thumbsup:

    Slip damper into cup first then smear a bit of lithium grease on the inside of the rubber and around the gauge case near the Bezel
    IMG_0061.JPG

    Slipped in the gauge and tightened up the Cup nuts. As you can see the Damper is a bit wide
    IMG_0072.JPG

    YamahadudeXS650C's simple Damper solution.........Post #7
    http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650b-neutral-light-bulb.39621/

    Some gauge light information.
    http://www.xs650.com/threads/speedo-access-to-bulb.42738/#post-426644
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019
  3. Last edited: Jun 20, 2018
    gggGary and TwoManyXS1Bs like this.
  4. Last edited: Jun 21, 2018
    gggGary likes this.
  5. 76-83 Gauge Internals and Gauge Cups.
    These are all basically all the same. 76-83 Standards and Specials have the needle stop on the gauge face.

    76 Speedo
    IMG_7263.JPG IMG_7264.JPG IMG_7266.JPG IMG_7267.JPG IMG_7268.JPG


    Link: ; DaveO; A repair for Tachometer extreme needle Fluctuations
    http://www.xs650.com/threads/repair-of-tachometer.37599/
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2018
    gggGary likes this.
  6. Rubber Damper for 76-83 gauges......Bottom of Post #2................pictures tell most of the story..........to be finished
     
    gggGary likes this.
  7. gggGary

    gggGary Horsepower; just noise 'til the tire hooks up.

    Great thread Skull!
    Found that a large hose clamp surrounding the bezel covered with electric tape, and this butchered up pliers made uncrimping a rather painless process on late model gauges. Holding the pliers at a slight angle helps kind of ramp the crimp open.
    Try to find a hose clamp with a smooth back at the screw fitting.... apply tape to the inside of the clamp to keep from scratching the bezel paint.
    DSCN3433.JPG

    I carefully brushed flat black from a rattle can over the faded EPA redline on this speedo. It's not invisible but doesn't catch the eye either.
    DSCN3281.JPG
    . IMHO while the gauge is open I put blue locktite on the screws, remove do them even if they aren't loose (yet). The loose screws can usually be found stuck on the "bell magnet" in the back.
     
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