79 Special II RestoCustom "Doomy"

I guess you're gonna do what you're gonna do, like putting high bars on a so-called "cafe"
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"RestoCustom" , what cafe lol. Thread title change here...
:cool:
 
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Well, today the Sun is back out and the snow is again gone
:umm:
So I'm out here working very low. See my truck rear tire picked up a screw so that had to come off. Being very near the sidewall, I know I had to plug it myself. Done.
While so low I moved over to "Doomy" to get under her to do the needed side stand and center stand maintenence. This bike has been on its center stand here for months !
First thing.. break the side stand weld in a quick attempt to bend it. Oops, kinda expected that so looking over at my parked 78E bone pile which is even lower, here goes another 78E part to the 79 purpose. Going pretty good so far. The 78E side stand fit well all greased up and on with a slightly longer bolt with a 14mm head & lockwasher. Snug
;)
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Center Stand went even better than the side stand. Upon removal it became surprisingly apparent that the center stand was only slightly used. The pivot bores and bolts were a bit dry but in Primo condition ! Was hoping for a break under there. Its all powder coated and is an under 7k mileage bike so , Score on the great function and tightness of both the side & center stand. My work under the XS is pretty much done
;)
And the physical height off the floor of the rear wheel is Awesome !
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You’re gonna have this bike wrapped up soon! Gonna have to find the next project. ;)
Yes, I'm getting close to a driveway test fire ! That will be the day of "made it"
Cosmetically, that will come with time. And it will be Goood !
Next Project.. Oh No no no..
I just gotta get my 78E back on track. It got real stripped down lol..
;)
 
Saturday some "Doomy" time fit in to being basically ordered to stay at home as we know. I am very close to starting up this 79 and that should get a little more popcorn time out of all the XS'ers around the world eh ?
Really wanted to today but maybe tomorrow.
I did get a battery locally sourced at my favorite and last remaining open to the public Motorcycle Salvage yard. Yes, they part out mostly sportbikes online too.
$20 gamble on this 220 CCA AGM battery. I encourage others to check these out online.
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Score !
Next was the pre start up valve adjustments and setting the points.
Let me tell ya, there was perhaps one valve in spec. They were all over the map with some lock nuts set Very Tight and others barely ?
Points were about .010 thou..
More unbelievably bad PO work.
Anyway, being very particular in poor light conditions in the garage because it's still cold outside ! I got it all set for the start up. And even though I do have a good variety of feeler gauges. With this bike came the factory road kit gauge and it is clearly my best for setting the points.
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I hope this is interesting enough for anybody stuck at home like us here lol.. may get out this evening for a river walk.
Ethanol free gasoline down the street tomorrow and I have to make up a temporary gas supply as my last one went out to somebody and didn't come home of course.
Wait for it ! It's going to run ! Timing light is next up :cool:
 

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images.jpeg

Yes, that does look handy. I can't believe I haven't brought a 4mm mini wrench home from a machine tool kit. But again I fumbled by. You know as you cinch that lock nut down the clearance actually increases say 1/2 thou ? or .0003 tenths.. had to do two, several frustrating times to achieve perfect ? And yes for what lol .. it will likely change after running..
-R
 
Very nice work Randy! I like that little factory points wrench and feeler gauge combo! :thumbsup:
As long as we’re talking about valve adjustments, I have to say I really like my Virago tappet screws. They’re a little bit shorter, but long enough. And the Allen heads make fine adjustments really easy, I highly recommend them.
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Not exactly on topic, but
FWIW, the best valve clearance adjuster I have ever laid hands on, was used on 70s and 80s 4 and 6 cyl sohc BMW car engines, M10 and M20 engine family. These adjusters are just a 4-5 mm wide eccentric discs, clamped in the forked valve end of the rocker. The eccentric disc has a hole, for inserting a suitable lever to turn it. When you have found the desired clearance, just tighten the center bolt, and the adjustment is not affected at all. Obviously, this not a useful tip for an XS, just me getting carried away here......
 
As long as we’re talking about valve adjustments, I have to say I really like my Virago tappet screws. They’re a little bit shorter, but long enough.

Not exactly on topic, but
FWIW, the best valve clearance adjuster I have ever laid hands on, was used on 70s and 80s 4 and 6 cyl sohc BMW car engines
Mailman I agree with your Virago allen head adjusters. I can see how a trim and narrow Allen wrench would help there.
Arctic XS, tried trying to vision it.
I'll contribute that the most fun engine to set valve adjustment on was my 91 FJ1200 which had the "shim and bucket" style adjusters. I had the "special tool" and an assortment of shims. With the tank off and the big 4 surrounded with the perimeter frame, the 4 carbs were easily synched after changing out valve lash shims.
That FJ was easily the most fun to work on and mine was "over cared for" because of just that.
Roll On Stompin cool it was !
:cool:
 
Yes, you often find the valve setting has loosened up slightly once you tighten down the lock nut. My theory is there is a little bit of play between the threads on the adjusting screw and the threads in the rocker. When you tighten down the lock nut, it takes up this play by pulling the adjuster screw towards the lock nut a little bit. This results in a slightly looser clearance setting. When that happens, I get out my other valve adjusting "special tool", a big rubber mallet, lol. I place a box wrench on the lock nut of the loose rocker and tap it slightly tighter with the rubber mallet, without holding the screw top from turning. I want the adjuster screw to turn with the nut and make my clearance setting slightly tighter, and usually it does. If this doesn't work after making the lock nut maybe 1/8 turn tighter at most, I throw in the towel and loosen things up to do a normal adjustment again.
 
Gotcha 5twins and that is what was happening. Intakes for example. My goal was a "snug.003" gauge slip but after fully tightening the lock nut, I could again sneak in a "tight.004" which just annoyed me.
By the way, I do not know what the torque spec of the lock nuts would be or how that could be possible to torque even. So I use a "tight with the small box end" then a tap on it with the 17mm rotor turning wrench.
Still, this engine has not ran for a long time so I know such efforts are futile perhaps but at my job I daily measure .0001's everyday so it's a carry over onto my home stuff..
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First time out to the driveway in some sunshine. I have plenty to do including firstly to create a battery box floor and wrap out of this rubber table matt :rolleyes:
Noticed when I installed my well lubes tach cable that the frame guide is smoothed off. Darn it. That is also needed so I'll make something there too. Out here I can see in the mufflers well enough to poke a nice small center hole in those plugs and create exhaust passage flows in there that will perfectly match my carburetor jetting choice LOL !
Wish me luck, I'm ditching 100 life tasks to claim driveway time outside. And the WA state Governor just might even frown on that because I've already petted two dogs
:cool:
 

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Positive update. Battery in but it sits pretty low for that positive cable so I'll build up the tray floor.
The good news is that with 12.6 volts the solenoid clicks and tries to turn the starter but things just won't quite spin yet.
But, the neutral light is bright and there is no smoke or heat anywhere and by kicking it .. there is healthy spark at the plugs !
Without a tail light, I have no working brake indicator in the gauge cluster yet and the turn signals aren't flashing but as far as going for a start up soon, it's still on track for that.
So more "onward and upward"
Oh, and those exhaust plugs in there are not rusty so they are reluctant to poke through. Sure wish I had a grinder to sharpen up a punch..
 

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Afternoon, checked it all over and the only thing lacking for a run test is fuel. It's time to fuel up my Ford tanks too just to have. So till this thing shakes and does the XS centerstand dance, hopefully later today.
Take care everybody !
-R
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Right On ! :cool:
Made it to the next level. See my Chipotle carb drain tray again lol. Yes, first I purged the dry carbs which seem to have fully functional float needle & seets whew. Then I filled the carbs and set the choke .. kick, kick, kick, kik kik kik.. ugh.. rest.
Take off choke and confirm the idle adjustment screw looks close?
Bam ! Ignition and take off. Very very smooth and quiet valve train. Keep it running to set the idle. 1,000 rpm good ? Quick grab the timing tight.
Left side right about perfect, slight retard.
Right side more advanced than I would set so there is some more adjusting to do but, woopsie what's that oil leak on the right cover ? Dang side oil filter cover is leaking. Read about this with Lakeview just recently so I'll pop that off soon and check out that "check ball setting" ? Never tried that before.
Any way , I claim partial victory and am now willing and eager to move forward with the body, seat front brakes, (still need Chinese lines) etc..
There ya go from Vancouver WA , USA
-RT
 

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