racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
Can these wires be pulled out of the coils and replaced?
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79 Special, oem plug wires?
- Thread starter racerdave
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
Yes; unthread the cap, remove.
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
I asked because I was to lazy to take the tank off and look, and I probably use something colored like a yellow Accel or something, with a rubber cap. Just have to get the right size. 7mm-8mm?
You can measure that without taking off the tank, I'm too lazy to go do it for you. Think I'll go drink a Summer Shandy instead.
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
That swill? At least drink a regular Leinies. You cheeseheads are a lot smarter {sometimes} than us fibs. I never thought of measuring them. I just measured. 7mm od on my digi Fowler gauge.
One way to get those super attractive yellow Accel wires is to buy an Accel kit, and you get the ignition coil thrown in as well. Yeah, I was too lazy to go to the garage as well, but my picture shows these wires to be 8.8 mm.
Attachments
RG tell us more about your set up? Is the white block a resistor or some studly condenser? Which Accel are you running?
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
That looks a lot like a old Mopar resister. They also work great to lower the heat output on handwarmers
The white block is a ballast resistor (Napa Echlin ICR23, 1.3 ohms). I used the ballast resistor only when I had points. The coil is 3.3 ohms and with the ballast I get a total of 4.6 ohms. That kept the current low enough to not burn the points. I ran that way for the first year, and it worked just fine.
I decided a Pamco was better than fiddling with points, even though the bike ran good with the points. With the Pamco, the ballast was not needed, so it was bypassed. The ballast resistor was left on the bike,and can be used if I go back to points. I actually had to go back to points for a short time.
The Accel coil is the#140403S non CDI. Its just an excellent coil, gives a hot spark, instant starts and 24 kms/litre (56 mpg).
