!978 XS650 SE

[David Toll]

Three and a half years and about $3000 but she runs like a kitten and passed the MOT with flying colours. I admit to having the final tuning and safety check done but Power Pro here on the Gold Coast but I have no regrets as I managed to get her up running and stopping with functioning electrics before I asked an expert to check her out. Made a couple of timing errors but my major problem was the cheap Chinese points - only Yamaha parts for me in future. Old fellow there did his apprenticeship on the XS and made me an offer I simply laughed off, this XS goes to one of my sons - which one is going to be a bit of a lottery draw - motivation to look after me in my dotage. Never thought I'd say it but, apart from poorly aligned front forks and the ongoing maintenance required by a 42 year old motorcycle, she's done! My thanks for all your assistance and support gentlemen. I'm planning next weekend's trip!!
PS. I have sorted that indicator - faulty flasher.
Cheers

 

[5twins]

Well, congratulations. You certainly went through a few trials and tribulations along the way, lol. I guess I missed it but how did you finally solve the front brake issue?

 

[David Toll]

Hello 5T,
My apologies for not finishing that thread. Bought a Mity Vac and vacuumed the air out than bled as normal; as per your advice which has consistently been of fundamental assistance in getting me to this point.
Cheers

 

[Mailman]

Congratulations David! You really fought for this day, now get out there and get some bug splats on your face shield!

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

Congrats David !!
I think that your strong dedication to this project was a key variable to your success.
Many guys would have thrown in the towel.
Enjoy your rides, you deserve a bunch of fun, now.

 

[David Toll]

Thanks Bob - you're another Forum member I owe a beer.
Cheers

 

[David Toll]

Thanks Dude - another member I wish lived in OZ

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

Thanks Dude - another member I wish lived in OZ

Beam me up, Scotty ! ....and deliver me to the Gold Coast.

 

[650Skull]

Congrats David........Enjoyment from now on.......any down time from now on will be small hiccups

 

[Jim]

Yeah... what everyone else said.

 

[bosco659]

Congrats on the bike David. Quick question... in the video, when you are just entering the driveway, the front end makes a clunk or clanking noise just as the forks begin to be compressed. My bike does the same thing and I can t figure out what that noise is, or where it’s coming from. Sounds (in my case) to be in the head of the triple clamp but it has been rebuilt with new bearings. Any ideas? Thx!

 

[gggGary]

Congrats on the bike David. Quick question... in the video, when you are just entering the driveway, the front end makes a clunk or clanking noise just as the forks begin to be compressed. My bike does the same thing and I can t figure out what that noise is, or where it’s coming from. Sounds (in my case) to be in the head of the triple clamp but it has been rebuilt with new bearings. Any ideas? Thx!

#1 recheck steering bearings. real common for races to seat a bit deeper and leave the tapering bearing loose.
Congrats DaveT!

 

[bosco659]

Th

#1 recheck steering bearings. real common for races to seat a bit deeper and leave the tapering bearing loose.
Congrats DaveT!

thanks gggGary. Is there a special procedure for checking the head bearings or do I loosen the lock ring and check the other ring for tightness. Sorry for the noob question.

 

[bosco659]

Just searched and found xsleo’s procedure. Will try to check tomorrow thx.

 

[David Toll]

Cheers Skull. Your rewind advice proved a great help - $150 and a years warranty - 14.5 volts and fires the starter every time.

 

[David Toll]

Thanks Jim. Gary got your question Bosco and gave me a job as well. Thanks Gary btw.
Cheers

 

[bosco659]

Trouble with my bike is the front fender is too short to hang a string from for the adjustment procedure from xsleo. I’ll have to improvise. Other problem is I don’t have a center stand so I need to prop the bike up on something to get the wheel off the ground.

 

[gggGary]

Yes the wheel needs to be off the ground or at least all weight removed.
Tapered rollers do NOT like preload, they just need all slack removed. I've installed "quite a few" tapered races and now have a driver made from an old stock race welded to a section of pipe,the other end of the pipe has steel welded on it also, so suitable heavy hammer blows can really get the race seated. Drive evenly around the pipe 'til the ringing noise changes, it's pretty easy to hear the difference. I had one of those fancy threaded race driver kits, but didn't care for it, sold it on.

OK for tightening. A cycle lift is best but @bosco659 a bit of blocking under the side stand and a car jack at front right will unload front wheel, some way to stabilize bike (ratchet straps) too keep it stable a VERY good plan. Best is prolly a complete remove of the top triple. So you have room to work, turning the nuts is easy and you have a good feel for the preload. Sorry but this is one of those persnickety PITA things. Careful when tightening the second, jam nut. get too ambitious and it will change the preload. That's why I'm so big on getting those races seated when I install, going back is such a PITA. And loosening tightening the nuts is best done with wrenches the ole hammer and screwdriver leave a lot to be desired... 4 years and 10 K miles on I really need to check madness it's got a light click/clunk on braking..

 

[bosco659]

Thx gggGary. I have a motorcycle jack that I need to adapt to the irregular surface under the bike frame. I tried lifting the bike on it once placing the left pad of the jack on the Center stand mounts and the right pad on the side stand mount. Need to shim the jack to get 4 points of contact. I’ll look for a set of wrenches fir the lock nuts. I too do not like the hammer / screwdriver technique on any piece of machinery.
I guess that’s why I got this bike - always something to work on!

 

[MaxPete]

Very nice David - well done!

Pete