Even better, she was going to work!
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Allison's 81 "Ole Paint"
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Ideal!!
How was the commute today - did the return go as smoothly as the outbound stage?
P
How was the commute today - did the return go as smoothly as the outbound stage?
P
I see that she know how to talk to it.
Would "Period Piece" be a good candidate to try out a smog sniffer?
Would "Period Piece" be a good candidate to try out a smog sniffer?
I have a dual wide band O2 gauge, haven't messed with it yet. These mufflers have a full metal baffle so would need to install a bung upstream, maybe later LOL. About a 3" section with bung that could be temp installed between muffler and header to tune it would be cool.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/pa...le-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-innovate-motorsports
https://www.summitracing.com/int/pa...le-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-innovate-motorsports
YES. I'm pulling carbs today, final time? fingers crossed. The vacuum petcock crapped out, full flow full time. suspect the oring I used on the diapragm tip swelled. Good news; float valves are working PERFECTLY! no gas in crankcase. Whew.
Back to the brake disk for a minute. What is the consensus on what to use on the six bolts that secure the disk to the wheel -- locktite, anti-seize, or compromise and use nothing. Or use both 
The reason I ask is it's similar to the rear sprocket arrangement, and there I have had a chronic problem with the bolts loosening enough to let the sprocket move around, though the tabs keep the bolts from actually coming out. I use anti-sieze there because when I got the bike three sprocket bolts were actually broken off down in the holes. I've never had the disk off and it's not moving, but If the disk were to move around like my sprocket wants to then I think it would be very bad news.
The reason I ask is it's similar to the rear sprocket arrangement, and there I have had a chronic problem with the bolts loosening enough to let the sprocket move around, though the tabs keep the bolts from actually coming out. I use anti-sieze there because when I got the bike three sprocket bolts were actually broken off down in the holes. I've never had the disk off and it's not moving, but If the disk were to move around like my sprocket wants to then I think it would be very bad news.
I found that o-ring to be very sensitive. I ended up using the old one for the rebuild because the new one in the kit immediately passed gas...
Are you using float valves from boats.net? The picture shows them in Yamaha packaging, but there's no mention of them being Mikuni. The price is the best I found. 25G-14107-20-00
P.S. also, I think the diaphragm can be too tight to let the o-ring sit properly. Probably would not be a bad idea to re-surface something to get just a hair of slack in the diaphragm when the o-ring is seated.
The petcock DID seal completely against blowing and sucking and when I filled the tank with no fuel line on it. 2 days later it wouldn't shut off at all, I had swapped o-rings before replacing the 4 hole rubber "valve" with a new Yamaha valve from stock. I still remember your epoxy vacuum petcock solution!! Especially when tthis one wouldn't shut off! Will be lookin' inside soon. I think I used the "old locktite blue on these. This hub has steel inserts so no concern about using anti sieze. I have not had any problems with rotor bolts being frozen.
Float valves are from a cruzinimage BS34 kit 
Yup the diaphragm tip oring was swollen up like a fat lady in a donut shop.
Carbs back to 42.5 pilots (stock) and 22mm float height also factory, around the driveway loop twice and it sounds both good and "right", smooth at all speeds, pulls without hesitation, it has the needle jet washer mod. It's still on the Uni pods, will do further testing and a video LOL then will look into the timing again.
Did some parts swapping today bet you can't guess what this is off of!
36 tooth 18x3 rim
Carbs back to 42.5 pilots (stock) and 22mm float height also factory, around the driveway loop twice and it sounds both good and "right", smooth at all speeds, pulls without hesitation, it has the needle jet washer mod. It's still on the Uni pods, will do further testing and a video LOL then will look into the timing again.
Did some parts swapping today bet you can't guess what this is off of!
36 tooth 18x3 rim
Last edited:
That was the Final Solution. Not epoxy though, but Seal-All whatever it is. It's advertised as, and seems to be, impervious to gas. Get rid of the plastic wafer and glue the two halves together with with rubberized gasket paper between them. Down is run, and forward and back are both reserve. Tuck one of those red lawnmower valves in neatly downstream.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/seal-all-contact-adhesive-and-sealant-380112/7010007-P
Or, you could try this -- from xsjohn? You have the tools.
On another forum we call the vacuum petcock the SOS, son of satan.
I'm sure that lots of them work fine - but overall, it seems like a poorly executed design that answers a question nobody asked.
Having said that, my 2007 ST1300 has a vacuum petcock and nobody on the ST Owners forum has ever mentioned them giving any trouble....
Having said that, my 2007 ST1300 has a vacuum petcock and nobody on the ST Owners forum has ever mentioned them giving any trouble....
Going to get some proper size nitrile o-rings and try again! have stock o-ring back in it for now and will keep my fingers crossed that the float valves are good!
Well Gary, if they aren't you'll hear all about it from the Baroness of Baraboo. Judging from the video of her starting the bike, she knows how to convey her true feelings if she's displeased...
O-ring was from one of those red plastic boxes of metric o-rings. Original diaphragm reused. I ran into some aftermarket that had a short aluminum shaft and wouldn't seal several years back. Bike ran good this morning, but I didn't pull the fuel line to check the petcock.
I'm thinking to buy these.
Here is a place to buy our standard AS568-007 O-ring in Viton 75 durometer material online. To find out more about this material, go to our Viton properties section. Note that SAE standard AS568a is currently superceded by AS568b standards. All of our standard online O-rings meet AS568b standards
Additional Information
AS568 Dash Number AS568-007
Material Viton 75
Cross Section 0.070in or (1/16in)
Inner Diameter 00.145in or (5/32in)
Nominal Tube Size No
I'm thinking to buy these.
Here is a place to buy our standard AS568-007 O-ring in Viton 75 durometer material online. To find out more about this material, go to our Viton properties section. Note that SAE standard AS568a is currently superceded by AS568b standards. All of our standard online O-rings meet AS568b standards
Additional Information
AS568 Dash Number AS568-007
Material Viton 75
Cross Section 0.070in or (1/16in)
Inner Diameter 00.145in or (5/32in)
Nominal Tube Size No
I was looking through cruzinimage's stuff just now and these diaphragms with pistons might be worth keeping in mind.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-83-YAMAH...820604?hash=item212989d8fc:g:XuMAAOSwVJhZVfC0
I used his piston rings and they seem to be fine, though inexpensive. Would be nice if all his stuff is good but inexpensive. Never read anything bad about him anywhere.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-83-YAMAH...820604?hash=item212989d8fc:g:XuMAAOSwVJhZVfC0
I used his piston rings and they seem to be fine, though inexpensive. Would be nice if all his stuff is good but inexpensive. Never read anything bad about him anywhere.
With a Dash number like that, those are American sized o-rings. There's nothing wrong with that. Sometimes you can find a perfect American sized substitute.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#9464k12/=18ixbmv
https://www.mcmaster.com/#9464k12/=18ixbmv
Yes more selection in american sizes down in the small diameters. Timing is now reading correctly, no changes made, that 1 strand of wire had an effect, poor technique, that easy to bump retard dial on the timing light? dunno. Stock air boxes with stock filters back on, just tracking down the last little grommets and collars to get them bolted down. I came up with the same results as madjap, doing dead cylinder tests,no noticeable difference with the idle screws unless they were basically seated, put em 3 turns out and called it good. Got another side cover and emblem painted up, going to Menards to see if I can get some of their grommets to work to hold the covers better than the crumbled remains of the stockers. Hope the ride test shows that last little miss is gone.
